SilverECR33

The Internetz is JDM As F*ck after this thread! yo.

That group buy is now closed. Unfortunently I must fit into that Rare 1% of people with issues inside!. i have been using polish only to clean them up for some time, but there is alot on the inside that requires cleaning. I attempted to open them up last weekend, to no available. It appears with age they do become brital. and this makes it very hard to open them up without breaking anything. fortunently I did stop before I wrecked them. Without the Group buy, Where else can one get this sorted? Or if anyone has any suggestions on opening them up.. Im all ears. Cheers, d

i thought it was 7:29 hmm. wheres that link to the offical nissan gtr launch vid...

I must be mis-informed. I was under the impression it was the other way around. hmm Well either way bashing the limiter is a baaadd idea.. baaaa

He has anyone got a R33 GTST on the southside that would lend me their Hicas Ecu for 15 mins? Would apprecaite it.

Yea I've done a few engines leaving gearbox in, time consuming and a real prick of a job. especially lining it all up and mounting it at the same time. I might try the slide out maneuver this time, or that load leaver (good idea.) Although I dont like the 'swing in' method with box attached, its very heavy and quite awkward, and 5/10 things are scratched (damaged). in the process. hard to be careful. Id go with the slide out method and let us know how you went .

ya the bee-r limiter is quite good, id use one over the pfc's one anyday. id rather burn a cat, then leaning out an engine imho.

pics would be nice

so want that front bar, bonnet. Damn that is Too CHEAP! nice car. gl with sale

Maccas Trays! Ftw! ;>

Boycott Motor Mag.!

Intriguing thread. Well hopefully if you wave enough $$$ you might just have some luck. I remember when u were selling this car. Nice car. Good luck

sms sent,

Fuel system? Pump? lines? pressure tested @ [given psi]?. What rail you using? are the injectors maxing out? is it IW or Ex?

Not the first, But damn! that is sweet mate, sounds nasty and the acceleration is Aggressive! top work.

the GTR2 that im hearing about. is this the Successor to the GTR created from the F1 2002 engine? mine favs; F1/Mod: M3, GTR Live For Speed Grand Prix Legends Nascar 99-2003 (ATR League) whoa. Richard Burns Rally (best Rally game Eva!)

First time Ive had a drama with the car is today . Turns out mines doing same thing, But it does it at anything about 0+. shuders, hesitates, splutters, as if a cooler pipe has gone off :S all new Gear, intake, gaskets, splitfires, tomei z32, about 80 dyno runs, never had an issue. today started it, driving to work.. this happening >.<... wat the f!,.. PFC map?

is this 100%? so how the hell are Series 1 people suppose to diagnose the issue? :S it used to be like that, But Like Munkyb0y its now on all the time, with no power steering all the time. yes mine is just like yours, I also notice that it seems to be no issue with hicas engaging while in this state. but on a side note, my power steering is gone. is it possible this has something to do with the solinoid on the powersteering rack which is connected to the hicas? We need clarification on this , need a wiring diagram..

I need the HICAS Schematics for wiring etc. My R33 manual is only for Engine. Can anyone help me out with this?

sounds like your front left control arm bushes are gone. like mine , hicas does not move ur steering wheel.

Hey warick, yea that thought did occur to me, that when / even if unplugged or disabled, the solnoid in the Powersteering will still be shut off. therefore not solving the ps issue. Ive checked all the Hicas fuses (reading from the Panel Scematics) and the fuses are fine, is there a way to over-ride the Solnoid disabling the power steering?

"You are signer #141" Well guys Hopefully there is some Movement on this rediculus policy.

the professional engineers that did it, id say they did it properly. they fix circuitry all day. There is a hicas fuse and its fine. they replaced all 3 and tested the circuit. they tested the ones that came off and even they were still working, even though 1 was leaking... So now I'm going over everything again. But not being able to get into the Hicas Diagnostic is a big hurdle im yet to get over. Still havnt got any clarification from anyone (including Paul33) whether or not having a Power FC is preventing this. A friend of mine suggested that the Hicas is entirely independent of the ecu and wouldn't have any impact on running the diag, although If anyone knows different please let me know.

Time to Dig up an old thread. As you may have read the issue was off and on randomly last year during this thread. since then has became a full time issue. We been trying to solve it in another thread here to no avail so far. The hicas lockbar is starting to look more and more promising. Although still If i can I would love to fix it. Im after anyone that can lend me a Hicas computer from a R33 that I can test with. Also if anyone knows , is there any difference between s1 & s2 or -Alsd models in reference to the hicas ecu itself.

Ok so we have a bunch of electrical engineers at work that were more than happy to do it for me, unfortunently it looks like that has not resolved the issue, Still hicas light on and heavy steering The board was in good condition, nothing eaten away at all. just some black mess around those 3 capacitors., the leaking capacitor was number #2, it was leaking from the bottom. which is not really normal. and the paste inside showed signs of leakage. Although this hasnt fixed the issue.. Looking for a Hicas ECU from a R33 to test with