SilverECR33

id like to see that.

totally agree.

Price drop $1,000 for both the Genuine Tomei Z32 (with tomei plug!) and the PFC. (thats about as good as it gets!) http://www.nengun.com/tomei/air-flow-meter-z32 postage at buyers expense, item location QLD>

Thank you GTSboy.... you are so helpful.

then.. just add this..

yep some nice rods and pistons can go a long way

forged pistons and crank collar at minimum, and a complete refresh will get u across the line sooner for cheaper. but really depends on what your plans for the vehicle, and power expectations are.

sorry about digging up an old thread, but this came up on google and wanted to add my 2c. Xrated is correct, it does suck it out of the air, also at the fuel station the tanks fuel gets moved, it does not remain stagnant. some stations have mixing processes, some just mix when the tanker tops up the tanks daily/weekly/monthly depending on the popularity of the station. it doesn't matter what fuel it is really, any fuel sitting 'stagnent' for too long becomes bad and stabilizers are required. apparently E85 is a bit more volatile (like methanol) than other bowser fuels and as such has different characteristics. there is some good information on the internet like the U.S Department of Energy's release on storage you can find here ; http://www.afdc.energy.gov/uploads/publication/ethanol_handbook.pdf like for example; my brothers VL was parked for a few years with 98 in it.. eventually the carbon separates and creates black silt everywhere which seized up and killed the almost brand new 044, which was left in it. now if he had used a stabilizer it may have been a different story, however I am not sure if the 044 can sit like that for that sort of duration and then work no idea about that but in this case it did not and we had to pull the entire fuel tank out and clean it and replace the pump, it was f*kt. also on the moisture, E85 isn't the only one that does it, infact many years ago when we all used to play with carbys and v8s, with leaded fuel, we used to have to run water seperators/ w filters on the lines, so the carbs would run right as we would end up with water in the fuel as all the tanks were steel or alloy because not only was the fuel absorbing moisture on the muscle cars as they would sit for long periods, but the tanks would get condensation. ps. no road car tanks are completely sealed, they all must have a breather.

With ACL gone belly up I'm wondering what choices are we left with for rb30/26/26

Thanks to this thread.. i found my issue. loose injector wire.. causing num#4 to not fire.. after all the new plugs, swapped coil packs, comp testing and shit... go figure.

something i might consider, i am in brisbane also.. just not sure if the 8 on the front is going to cut the mustard.. is it 8.0? or 8.5? and the rear is definitely 9.0?

oh boy, these are the wheels ive been chasing forever! too bad they are the wrong offset! agh.

haha nice! that's the spirit!

well at least you live in a good area for boating!.. Rb powered boat I hope?

haha yea, well I could always leave the pfc in and run it, and leave the ross trigger kit and haltech out until I get it on the dyno.. but I don't like this 7degrees of timing m ovement.. I just saw over in ur thread ur partin out ur beast? damn shame..

all good, found time to read thru the thread xD.

pray to the car gods for me.. seems both sean and david are booked solid! how the hell can I get the car ready for sep 19!?..

I remember you, back then I was called Silverbullet. xD oh and Hai Marc! I have been quietly building my beast behind the scenes for some time.... starting to become a bit of an animal.. I hope Its ready for sep 19.

nismo is very quiet almost stock quiet.

ahh righto,

I don't really see how a titanium manifold would really be much better than an aluminium one in terms of heat dissipation and contractual properties.

ps. nice car, nice results gratz.

i have on of these and they sure do

You will be able to do more correctly for less money if you sold it and bought the turbo model, if you think it will cost you 8k, its gonna cost you 12k.

this thread comes up first all the time on the google search of "how to adjust camber on a skyline R33" out of all the talking no one actually instructed on the "How to" part. on the factory camber adjustment bolt, there is a oblong washer connected to a bolt with a hole and some lines on it. which aligns to a notch on the subframe. can someone please explain how to adjust it? ie, if you move it up 2 lines in what direction achieves what +/- camber angle? would be appreciated, thanks.