SilverECR33

its probably something else IMO - check everything you have touched.. and ps. always use a torque wrench for that sorta shit. however it is 123-130nm which is tight as hell for that big bolt, its in a keyway and not ment to move. Even so I doubt over tightening would do anything more than destroy your motor when the bolt snaps, its really those little ones are the ones u gotta be careful of over tightening. Ps.. did you secure the cam when you tighted it?

he didn't say reputable brand, and if this guys budget is fixing a dead turbo why wouldn't he use a kando? if you have no money replace it with a stocker, but seriously with turbos your better off getting a new one, or a off the shelf re-con'd HiFlow one, else you will end up shooting yourself in the foot.

I know stupid question but did you secure the retaining nut before you removed the restrictor? if you havnt, there goes your warranty, and that's probably what they think you may have done on the phone.

owner built 30/25 w/vct Fully built motor Tomei Poncams 1000cc bosch inj Precision BB 6262 6Boost ex mani Plazmaman Plenum Power FC etc etc.. with street legal cat Pump fuel BP98 431hp atw@ 16psi first safe tune on second motor.

wow 86 pages now? this thread is popular!. got some results from my build for yaz. 431 hp atw @ 16psi on the little 6262 t4 t/s .84 on pump with plenty more left in it. will update the dyno charts section with my dyno sheet when I can be f*kt, or after I go back for the second tune.

Firstly, in QLD law states if you make contact with a bus, its your fault. regardless. You are to give way to buses always. Your not alone mate, everyone's being cut off by busses because of this BS law in qld, and some even dangerously. My advice, do what I do, stay the h*ll away back from busses, some of them really push the envelope with what they can get away with.

I would like to agree with you, but since the polys and ACA have made it their primary concern (over drug deals and criminals) that they should lock up all hoons and get imports off our roads, its a very lucrative and profitable exercise for them and because of the money involved id say there's more to it than we would like to admit.

add: more info at dragtimes.com http://www.dragtimes.com/blog/first-stock-nissan-gt-r-to-run-in-the-10s-drag-racing-14-mile

ahhem.. you might want to adjust your list there guys... http://www.worldcarfans.com/112042643825/watch-a-stock-2013-nissan-gt-r-run-10s-in-the-quarter-mile

this is a brand new swaybar guys, no sh1t. was mounted and got scratched didn't clear sump so was removed!. someone buy it, to help cover the cost of the custom one I had to get made.

headgasket sold

I've been building one for freakin ages. its finally running again and hopefully tuned next week. However Im concerned about one of the comments regarding the grub screw. My first head was all welded np. but decided to use a new head this time around but it has been grub screwed this time and tapped. will this be an issue? and how long will it last?

in relation to this, those of us who do RB20/25 builds, there is no provision for this on the side of the RB30 block, I created a T on the oil drain at the block and fed it to there vertically, I just hope theres enough 'AIR" travelling up this pipe whilst the turbo is draining to ensure proper scavenging of this effect. thoughts?

what if you paid, and then the staff say your car is too loud and wont let you run?

I got a JB clutch for sale cheap and its got a billet flywheel, still got meat left, probably could use a flywheel machine, will hold that power easy.

I bought one brand new from performance wholesale not long ago. im sure they still have stock.

Thanks very much for your reply, I hope that's it

I have a spare one of these if you need.

RB25DET head for sale Note: This head has been modified to suit a RB30 Bottom end, whilst Retaining VCT (PROPERLY!) Head work Completed: - Full clean up - New welsh & oil plugs, - Decked - Crack Tested - Straightness Tested - Full Valve Cut - New Set of Valve Stem Seals - Certain Plugs welded as per high HP requirements - Weld and Fit new VCT Boss - Weld and Shut front Oil Feed to head (this head owes me $1800) Story: First motor I ran in failed, this Head was on it. The Head had some alloy in it from the oil pump. The head has been cleaned out, and came up good, but I would recommend probably be cleaned again for good measure and plugs replaced. I would also recommend new lifters as the lifters that were in it obviously will have some ally inside, so would recommend new lifters. (I have cleaned them and they seem ok and have put th em in their original positions, however, I wouldn't take the chance if it was me) can sell with original cams (that were not in the motor when it failed and they are in VGC, these are the original cams from this Head, the cams that were on the head were tomei ones. The cam bearings and cap shells got scuffed a bit, but Linished up well and are within spec. (feel free to re-measure) I wanted to keep the head as a spare, and if no one buys I definitely will, else... Asking $650 ono. Item is in Brisbane, Pickup only. Call number provided, if you havnt received a pm. 0419 745 910

what a freakin troll. replacing step down pipework for a straight 4" setup whilst keeping pfc = win I would be keen for this.

I got a Nismo Intank, heard of a fair few cars that make over 400 with this pump, on 98, E85 will need more flow. im about to turn the wick up soon on it on 98, and see if it can make the numbers.

i got a set of tomei pon cams. seeing 110 across all 6. dry test only. tryin to figure out why its so low.

Dan, Can you tell me if you believe using a multilayer metal head gasket say 1.3mm would impact on the results and how so?

oil cooler, and Catch Can - SOLD

Front Grill SOLD Still lots of goodies left guys!