SilverECR33

I may have a slight rear seal leak already. somehow, and the cars still on run in, running spring pressure (seeing 10psi). turbs was primed properly and always warmed up/down. still not 100% yet, but if it is.. damn shame and will have precision on the phone askin for answers.

CR wont change much, but your Quench will. id use a stocker. or a similar sized mls, the stocker is 0.9 i think. Ive got a multilayer rb25 metal MLS gasket for sale (used once), has it doesnt work on my 30/25 build. for $50 if you need it. it measures at 1.1 i think. pm me if ur interested.

I just went throught this in feb, when rebuilding my engine myself. I tried to ask my old engine builder about this, but he didnt read my email properly.. Some mechanics build them tighter on the second, and some build them looser on the second. I found ACL advises to make it looser on the second due to elieviate high rpm pressure buildup between the rings. so in the debate of things i rang the ring supplier (TOTAL SEAL) in the USA and spoke with them directly. as they recommend a tighter gap on the second now. They told me that they used to advise all piston manufacturers who used their rings 15 years ago to make the second ring looser, etc but have since changed their tune due to extensive r& d testing and advised the high rpm buildup only applied to pro stock cars running at 8800rpm plus with pistons with bad pressure release vavlues or incorrectly sized ones. they now recommend larger at the top.. then i also read through nissans RB manual and they also recommended to reduce the second.. this all confused the f*k out of me so i decided to increase the top one slightly. gap em both the same. does nissan, acl and all the other manfucaturers use outdated info like total seal suggest for these motors/pistons? mines running in now 900kms so far and all is going well. if you needed a rec, if i had to do it again, id probably just set them at 0.022 for the top and 0.026 for the bottom, for peice of mind i guess.

Im after a front windscreen for R33 GTST. Mines just decided to have a big crack in it when i woke up saturday. Not sure if GTR are the same, but if anyone has one, please pm me.

no front windscreen?

well that sucks..

Because Mike has asked... Im in!..oh and ofc id like to help out. See you there mike, be good to catch up ^^

Also for SALE Clutch for Rb25, RB30. JB Clutch 4000lbs clamp single plate 6 Button(puck) clutch (USED) clutch is working fine.. selling due to upgrade to bigger clutch. (can inspect prior to purchase) Pic is from when it was purchased for $1,100 bucks, obviously looks dirty now. wont come with bearing and stickers & Box. Includes flywheel. Probably got another 40-50k meat left on it. Rated at 700hp asking $250 Preferr pickup, as its pretty heavy. but can post at buyers expense.

FAN - SOLD Exh Mani + SHeilds - SOLD

Garage Clean out For sale bits and peices (all bits are negociable) Postage at buyers expense, Pickup from brisbane. $45 - K&N power intake Pod Filter Good condition, used for about 25k original prie $180 $50 - RB25DET MLS Metal Head Gasket (reusable at least 2 more times), needs clean. measures at 1.1mm $35 - D1 Spec Oil Catch Can, used, good condition has all fittings , no hoses as they are cheap and were binned anyhow. $25 - Cooling-Pro 13 Row old large tube fin style Oil Cooler. was used, replaced with bigger 19row, will need good clean. $10 - R33 Clutch fan, clutch in good condition, some light cracks, but normal on fan this age $35 - R33 S1 Dash Cluster, good working condition 200+xx kms $120 (6) - R33 S1 Coil packs, came off good working motor, no issues no cracks. if you want seperate, cost $40 each. $35 - R33 S1 Rear Spoiler, Very good condition, no scratches, light perfect working, color: Silver $25 - R33 S1 front Grill, good condition, bit dusty $30 - R33 RB25DET exh manifold and head sheilds, good condition, no cracks $25 - RB25DET Fuel rail complete with Sard reg adapter (front) $25 - R33 Stock front Swaybar, good condition with stock rubbers $175 - R33 Whiteline 24mm Heavy duty Sway bar, used 0kms, was fitted to car, but didnt clear ASR sump. so its brand new with some grease and a few light scratches on it. cost me $265. comes with whiteline Bushes. $40 - RB25DET cams, they look pretty good, no visable damage, will work fine as replacement for lunched cams. I probably got some more bits and peices there for sale, including complete rb30 Series 2 long motor, and rb25 head complete prepped for 30/25 w/vct and rb25det bottom end in good condition. (will post this gear soon). All prices neg, sms or call the number provided, probably wont reply to forum posts as not online alot. dale - 0419745910

id be interested to see doing that modification alone, how much flow & efficiency is affected.

ID1000's are Bosche EV14's modified by Injector dynamics and matched. they pick the best of the bunch, match them then machine new nozzles. This came from the horses mouth. Tuners Ive spoken with suggest there really hasnt been much difference between them on builds they have back to back tested with. However if the spray pattern is better on the modified nozzle id suggest the ID's would be a bit more Efficient.

i got a spare stock afm somewhere in good condi, and a spare set of good condition coil packs also for sale.

nice wheels m8 =D

anyone got any recommendations or numberS? im chasing a mod plate also

big shoes to fill definently, especially in the skyline community. Dan will be mised. I hope all goes well for him.

thanks, yea the cleanup work was done by my mate Grootie from Grooties Race and Resto in Adelaide. the rb30 center returns hug the wall as you can see in the picture next to the bottom of the piston bores, and dont present as much as a problem as the rear galleries do, as the center area is a tornado of oil anyhow due to the spray from out of the sides of the bearings. the rear galleries however dump most of the oil back into the sump and on serious drag cars or circuit cars, presents an issue wh ere the oil is actually going back up those rear galleries, therefore not allowing the oil to flow down there fast enough. Those cards you were talkin about would be best placed there , we thought about doing it, but its a prick of a place to try and weld in some cards/baffles, but it can be done. I think it would present the best payoff/benifit, i guess, for the oil control issue in these RB motors Im sure this has been done to death previously, and ps im not a mechanic, just a hobbyist. cheers.

while mine was out the second time, we decided to do it too. however we also port matched the rear oil galleries as they are smaller on the 30. ended up lookin like this. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

bloody good buy, wish id seen this yonks ago. wouldve saved a packet. good luck with the sale

yea my bad, i was thinkin about the big ends of the rods, not the actual mains.

found a set of those HKS plugs in mine when it came back from the tuners. 2 broke getting them out.. only after 660kms. they look exactly like NGK iridiums.

r33 rb25/30det w/vct failure: heat exchanger mounted over rb30 stock oil filter thread stud, causes oil bypass so no filtration or cooling to oil cooler. failed at 660kms Was a tight motor. Wear on crank /gurdle thrust bearing stuffed, oil pump backing plate also chewed up. head cam /lifter galleries , & crank stopped pumping oil. conrods, crank, head, cams all stuffed. no bearings spun, all evenly worn. (acl race series).

Its Alive! gf kunts

would you seperate head from block?

it sure does. please be advised gentz, im travelling alot atm, so its a bit hard to reply. sms is best. and u may need to wait a week lead time for purchases due to me going in and out of town for work at this time.