iz32

anyone?

i need to get mine replaced but dont know where to go.. has anyone had theirs done and can suggest/recommend somewhere to get it done?

otherwise its the bulb itself....?

my guess is the meter one.

mods: any chance you can sticky the pic? took me ages to find it myself.. cheers

yea i found out today from nissan it is a circuit breaker but they didnt know what for... cheers tho, now i do. unfortunately i got one from a wrecker today (from a working car and at a fraction of the cost of a new one) and it still trips... gotta be a short somewhere in the power window circuit...time to fault find!

where can you get a wide band sensor? my car came with the air/fuel gauge already fitted to a standard second sensor and just like you said the needle erratically jumps from rich to lean according to whats happening but doesnt really give a "reading" as such. its pretty useless when you watch it.

im getting a clicking sound from under the dash and my power windows dont work. it began when i started the car whilst at the very same time put both windows up... i assume there was a high current draw and something went click then windows stopped dead. i have swapped the elec window relay in the engine bay around with the others and its not that. The car starts and runs fine..... stereo, interior lighting, dash, lights, signals.....basically everything works all ok except for the clicking at regular intervals. when the click happens there is a current drain cos all the lights dim then its ok for a few seconds till it clicks again. after checking all the fuses i found the mirrors/wipers fuse was blown but i havent used either of the items for so long i dont know if it was pre existing. that was replaced and the wipers work fine but the clicking is still there. its not the black box in the door cos ive had/fixed that problem before I've traced the clicking sound down to this.... what is it and what does it do? it only has 2 pins but clicks like a relay. im yet to track one down and relace it....hopefully thats all that went wrong, but im curious to know what it is.

id prefer the cross @ 60hz gonna go with a type-r this time round but im a bit confused if i should stick with a sealed enclosure or go for a tuned port DnB is the taste btw.

unfortunately im in wa but would appreciate it if you could help out with some numbers for an enclosure once i choose a sub... 60hz being the sweet spot. btw....the slot port is 300 deep 300 high and 50 wide (giving it a 50mm gap at the back as the internal box depth is 350mm)

theres no fun in paying someone to do it i have used a few box designs all up, the pioneer eventually blew in a generic ported box and lastly the type-s gave up in a small sealed box, near on a cubic foot which all round i felt sounded the best but seemed to plateau at very high volume. in between the 2 above mentioned subs i used the TWS307D2 as bang for buck spec wise it looks a winner but after 3 enclosures i got rid of it cos i couldnt shake this mid-low bass emphasis it had which drowned out the sub bass. firstly i used a small sealed enclosure as per pioneers recommendations then a larger packed sealed enclosure and lastly a slot ported box i had made which is now a makeshift coffee table in the garage (internal measurements 300x350x350 + another 50x300x350 slot port) this gave me my sub bass but only at high volume and in hind sight i went a little too low on the tune for the box. there was hardly any bass response on low to moderate volume and it weighed a tonne. i've also listened to this sub in the prefabricated pioneer enclosure and didnt really like the sound, it was in a BA ute so that may have something to do with it. i want to steer away from the 600+ price bracket for the next sub as its stepping into the next level of audio where my front stage cant keep up, which will end up snowballing and next thing i know ive got a system worth more then the car, been there before. im no audiophile but like to know tricks of the trade... so from what ive read the enclosure is the weak spot. i can stick with my current setup then pick a sub, get a custom box tuned for my application and go easy on the gain...im of the school of thought on letting the amps do the work as far as tuning goes and try to make minimal changes at the head unit only to adjust sound quality between different bitrates

I keep blowing subs with my current setup as i've always been advised its best to over power your speakers for a cleaner sound. understandably its a fine line between clean power and too much power. now working with what i got, and sticking with the 300w rms range of subs to keep it near my splits volume capacity, is it better to overpower the sub with the gain backed off and match the amp/splits rms (like i have been) or vice versa? equipment i use: soundstream lil wonder 2x65 or 1x260 @ 4ohm pioneer splits 60w rms.... i think? jaycar response 2x150 or 1x500 @ 4ohm subs ive killed: pioneer 12" 150w rms alpine type-s 12" 300w rms im finding that with all the different bitrate music i download, my system can be fine for months with my gain tuned correctly for the lesser power sub, then suddenly some live recording with a low bitrate or poor recording sound, played loud, gives my amp a "what for" and pop goes the sub. cheers in advance for any advise....

Tie rods (i been referring to them as hicas arms) are cheap as. KYP sold me one for 33bux. piece of piss to change but you need a bearing puller to make it easy. i spent 2 days trying to get it off the outer end joint (wheel hub end) and the bearing puller did it in seconds. you also need to drop the rear section of your exhaust and its all there infront of you. then you need a wheel alignment. if you decide to do it yourself you can borrow my bearing puller cos i know first hand now how much of a pain in the arse it is.

I cant get the rear wheel alignment bars off the hub assembly. the bars that connect to the hicas. i have removed the pin and nut and wound the rods in, bashed it with a hammer from all different angle including moving the hub assembly up n down with a jack, removed the rod totally from the hicas even and i still cant get it of. also tried soaking it in inox and then again all the above... both sides just wont budge off the shaft. anyone got any tips?

all good mate