iz32

any hints on front and rear stabiliser bar settings guys? or does the spring rate play a big role in determining this setting?

cheers.....looks piss easy pedders want 10bux for the C-spanner but thats peanuts anyway. as far as wheels off, i would do it anyways for easier access. doesnt take long.

I have cusco coilovers on an R32 gtst and want to lower the car a couple more cm's. It looks easy but as i have never seen or attempted it before im just wondering how i go about it. im assuming you rotate the 2 large nuts down the threaded shaft to the require height then tension them aginst each other..... but is there a specific tool to use on the large nuts? and do i need to compress the spring before making the adjustment? please fill in the gaps if there is any thing else i dont know of or any hints & tricks..... or is it as easy as that? cheers

Ive had the siren sound for a year now on a hks turbo.... had it rebuilt twice cos i though it was broke but its still there.... it went away briefly with a new higher HP tuned eprom (the turbo induction sound went really quiet and the siren sound dissapeared but the car went way harder) then the siren came back after i did an engine swap (done to fix engine oil leaks) which also brought ping ping caused by timing issues at higher boost.... EMS now installed and getting tuned on wed so if the siren goes away im gonna put it down to engine specific timing setup in conjuction with afr's somehow. I wouldnt worry unless there is shaft play or blades touching the housing...... the siren sound is much different to the grinding sound of blade on housing

those asking about the gt2510 here are some results from my old setup bare in mind i suspect the dyno used was about 5-10kw too generous. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2184825 personally i wasnt a fan of the 2510 as it runs out of puff up top. since then i had it rebuilt into what resembles a GT2530 using a larger garrett turbine and the difference was amazing. it felt it was easily good for a REAL 225+rwkw @ 1.35bar. never had it dynoed due to tuning and workmanship issues but a huge increase nevertheless, it still lacked a lil grunt right up top....to this day even with a grinder spec turbine wheel it still spins the 18" 255 rubber @1.1bar in the dry. personally i think chasing power under 4500rpm in a rb20 is a waste of time and money. they love to rev and are more efficient making top end power so you just need to make sure you have a good clutch and use it accordingly. currently im thinking of rebuilding the GT2510 again with fresh bearings and using the GT2871 turbine with ext gate to get a constant 22psi out of it but i dunno how a rebuilt unit would hold up with that kind of pressure daily.....or another idea im throwing around is a GT30 of some sort to get a lil more power up top.

Gday Im after a local (australian) webhosting company to host up to 10 email addresses and a small website (4-5 pages with low content) but i need the email space provided to be on the larger side as it will be mostly handling large multi page pdf drawings and plans and will sometimes not be emptied for a few days - upto a week. am not overly concerned about it being the cheapest option but more so on reliability and good customer support. any recommendations? I have never attempted this before so they all look the same to me at the moment I've got a top 5 list from google search but would also like to see any other options before signing up anywhere cheers iz

yer im really confused... I just cant understand how 2 RB20's can behave soooo extremely different with the same tune and mods hanging off em. just relating everything i can find to the situation.... SAU is killing my brain cells --END THREAD--

I think i totally misread the info on these forums.... confusing 2 situations into one.

it does clarify that point but im also trying to figure out where the problem occurs in the engine. as positive boost builds it should be drawn/forced into the chambers so what would cause it to bank up and surge? in my particular case the turbo is a constant and 2 different engines are the variables... edit: i should add that im refering to during the spool phase... not off the throttle BOV type scenario.

I have just been reading up on compressor surge all afternoon particularly in relation to low rpm on an RB20. i have dug up some stuff on sau regarding this topic when incorrect wheel configurations in highflows can cause a compressor surge at low rpm, what im unclear about is would this only occur at full boost or can it also occur whilst building boost? and how? as i understand from what i have read is that the compressor wheel will push x amount of air out and if the pressure between the turbo and engine is greater then what its pushing then it will be forced back thru the compressor causing surge. now how would this occur in a low rpm situation when the boost pressure isnt that high? what causes the engine to restrict this compressed air entering the combustion chamber? could an incorrectly setup engine cause surge or is it all to do with a spiking turbo? i have theories on incorrect inlet cam lift duration or timing....but im not a qualified mechanic or an engineer and could totally be off the mark so opinions would be great!

yes but if the cas is in the correct position as per manufacturers spec on both engines then why would there be pinging on the newly installed engine at lower boost levels with a rich tune (a/f ratio's proven on dyno) am thinking an issue in the inlet manifold area.... ?!? everything on the inlet side bar the inlet manifold and throttle body was swapped over from the previous motor. got me stumped. any ideas?

are these turbos designed to constantly and reliably run 1.3 - 1.5 bar all day everyday ...?? can a poor afr tune decrease their life?? like leaning out up top.... if so how?

ok this is just for curiosity sake as EMS is going in very soon but how is it possible for the ignition timing to be out after swapping RB20's over??? the reason i believe the timing is out is that it pings above 1.1bar and on the dyno its afr is just above 10 when the ping starts so there is plenty of fuel. but by experimenting just for the hell of it i turned the CAS clockwise about 4mm and it will now take 1.3bar but producing less power...understandably now the remapped ECU is the same and the timing was spot on on both RB20's (until i messed with the CAS on the new one) i thought the ecu controls the timing or is there some other funky business going on that i dont know about..........?? is there any other sensors or factory adjustments or connectors involved in controlling the ignition timing that could be out of sync? if a cam gear was one tooth out would it give me much more grief then ping at high boost? im assuming major idle problems. just doesnt make sense.. previous engine ran very nice above 1.3bar with a bucket load more power.

i had my 2510 rebuilt with a garrett cartridge and as close to 2530 spec garrett exhaust wheel.... (not by GCG) had nothing but trouble with noisy bearing sound, they claimed some garrett bearing packs were naturally noisy....sounds like a cop car siren when spooling up 2 cartridges in 3 months and the thing is still noisy as hell.....been 5months and still noisey but still makes good HP so i just gave up on sorting out the bearing whine. let me know if you have better luck cos i might freight mine over to GCG next time round. BTW it cost me $700 for rebuild including garrett bearing pack and another $300 for the exh turbine

gday, Im planning to paint my oil catch can and angle brackets in a basic black gloss tomorrow.... could i get some tips on how to prep the surface cos it has a very shinny smooth finish and i dont know if they are made from a cheap chrome look coating or simply, polished metal. heres some things i came up with: 1) do i use wetndry sandpaper to prepare the metal surface and just paint over it, 2) or do i take the whole entire layer off with a metal brush and corse paper to remove the polished area totally before painting? >>> also should the surface be cleaned with toluene at some stage? 3) should i use a primer? or a specific "anti polished metal" primer before painting? 4) or do i just hit it with the paint & primer combo specials....? all tips are most welcome regards Izad

caught the very start and the last 2 legs... shame bout the rain... nangkangs + wet roads = what happened to the raffle draw.....?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=166390

ahahah... why the ban?

sorted for beer!! all you shifty wreckers i delt with, u can go suffer in ya jocks!! until the next time i need something despo... hahah

why thankyou captain obvious

im still waiting.... the longer i wait the more alternative options keep popping into my head......aarrgghh! what to do? word from the street (not from a tuning shop) is they are a bit of a bitch to tune....also heard someone mention you can also do away with your AFM using the emanage which is kinda cool.

Im in for a NOR meetup! Im yet to meet any NOR sau'ers..

gday, im chasing the cluster surround, in particular the headlight switch off an R32. I am willing to pay a REASONABLE price of around $40 for the item not the high price wreckers feel its worth... so if anyone has a front cut gathering dust or they have no need for this particular part please pm/sms/call me and i'll gladly come and remove it Cheers Iz 0411 336 004

not braking when turning in but when im trying to wash off bulk speed just before corner. i have tested at different application pressure and it feels as tho it should pull up a bit harder before it locks up. i'll go with the rubber..

i have been pushing the r32 abit harder lately to see its limits and i have noticed my front wheels lock up alot earlier then i'd like when entering corners. would this be a braking issue or a cheap rubber issue..? i am using cheap nankangs. got standard gtst brakes with slotted rotors and green stuff pads... where do i start??