Blue32

My built motor with T517z 8cms makes 402rwkw on pump fuel with 1.5bar........bloody responsive and very large useable rev range for the circuit....

GTR front pipes - $150 each this weekend only. RB26 AFMs - upgraded to D-jetro so not needed and were working perfectly. $100 for the pair this weekend only Sub Box - fits 2 x 12 inch subs for R32 $80 this weekend only PM me

I think I'll be timing officially this time with a proper track timer - plus the old man will bring out his mega uber camera so pics will be available after. Gonna strap the video camera in the car too - so track footage should be cool.....

generally as it hits 100deg C water temp, and probably 110 - 115 oil temp. Oil breaks down at 120deg C, and coolant will boil around 110 - 115deg C. As long as when you hit these temps, you get off the noise and cool it down for a few laps, you should be fine.

had a shimmed diff in my gtst - it was quite driveable and locked up nice at slow sharp corners and yet wasn't too clunky. FYI mechanical diffs are clunky and general a little uncomfortable driving on the street. Pulling in and out of car parks etc really binds them up causing them to lock, and then the suspension torsions up and you get the clunking. Kind of the car version of hip dysplasia......

remember there competitiveness was in part due to the restrictions placed upon the GTR........

No worries mate - been flat out getting the interior sorted and next is the sus :-)

sure - but I'm probably going away for 3 weeks on Tuesday. One week early. Thats one week less to get ready for the track day. Any of the next couple of days is fine :-) just might have to get out and about to grab swaybars and springs for a bit inbetween.

Looks good Chad - where you gonna put the oil filter??

Pretty sure once all the local car drivers whinged, the boost was restricted to 1.3 bar and 100+kgs of ballast added. Yep - they still kept winning. Before that I think they ran up to 2 bar, but usually 1.5.

just watched an old clip of the winfield gtrs at the lala - Skaife qualified with a lazy 1:08:98!!!!!!! Holy sh%t balls batman!! Maybe all the ballast they ran made them faster...... Got new shoes for the GTR yesterday - can't wait to try them out!

On mine - the overhead tank feeds another tank instead of back into your rear turbo inlet and PCV valve like the one pictured from just jap. This secondary tank sits in the position of the battery and vents air to atmosphere and feeds oil back into sump.

You could just get a custom one made - any automotive alloy fabrication shop can do it for you. Then you can hide it, or paint it black and run black lines to further stealth up the installation. Isn't it funny - we modify our cars to be suitable for track work, so we can get off the street and enjoy our car in the safety of the race track, and due to our outdated defect system it discourages us!! Talk about a self licking ice cream......

Yeah - I have run 1:17 on hard worn out semis and crap coil overs with the left hand rear with no oil in it. I think I'll be fine champ.

Yep once again its a good idea. Close to stock power levels will also benefit as your intake system will not injest oil mist from the head - which effectively lowers your octane rating of your fuel air mix and will bring detonation on earlier. With a bit of boost on board, you will get blow by your rings and oil controls rings, which pressurises your sump and therefore head, and will breath oil out of your rocker cover breathers. Installing a catch can, whether it be with a return to sump a la nismo one, or simply catching the oil and seperating the air (to atmosphere) will negate the above mentioned problem.

Forged pistons expand with heat and contract when cold. It is only a very slight amount, but depending on levels of silicon within the piston make up (which varies between manufacturers) you set clearances to allow these pistons to expand into the actual clearance you desire. All engine components are happiest when stable at operating temperature. Consider the fact we have cast iron blocks and alloy heads........ Think of it this way - some of our engines make 680hp odd at the engine. On 156.7 Cu in. That is the equivalent of a 400 chev making 1730hp. You wouldn't just jump in one of those and cain them cold would you? In fact most of these engines get pulled down and rebuilt after every (drag) run......

You will have a full oil pump drive collar on your GTR Daniel - you are right in thinking the early GTR's have the half width oil drive, but late R32 upwards are all good. The GTR has 2 independant systems of indicating oil pressure - an oil pressure GAUGE (with oil pressure sender which are notoriously faulty, generally they read right for a while, then read incorrectly like 2 bar low ((still indicating oil pressure TRENDS)) and then read true again. All nissan RB oil pressure senders do this (RB30 upwards). The second is the oil pressure LIGHT, which runs on an oil pressure SWITCH totally independant to your pressure gauge. If you ever see this come on whilst driving, shut it off as quick as possible (safety first of course, but) the means you have NO oil pressure and if you are lucky you'll only score your bearings. Next step would be you will spin a bearing, then if that seizes you install air conditioning in your block and a rod escapes........BAD + $$$$$ You shouldn't have damaged your bearings with parking it on an extreme angle, however this is definately not a great idea and will accelerate bearing wear. 10 secs without pressure isn't great, and with such a simple rectification of parking your car the other way round, I know what I'd be doing. The oil pickup is probably exposed when parked the wrong way round, and it only gets oil feed to it once the crank splashes the oil around and causes the oil to slosh around, THEN feeding the pickup. As for oil warmup - in your application be careful not to boot it when it is cold, just drive on minimum boost and revs till it does warm up. This will ensure all components are at operating temp and oil is up to temp where it is designed to lubricate properly. Hell, I warm mine up for 10 mins before it even moves, but my application is different with forged pistons etc. JESS - negative 6 camber eh, was your car a delorean in its previous life?? jokes, I think you mean castor

yep - behind the harmonic balancer just below the water pump. Pickup is in the middle of the lowest part of the sump.

simple solution - park your car the other way so all the oil is at the front of the sump where the pickup is for the oil pump, then you won't have these dramas ever again. FYI if we see 0 oil pressure in the aircraft I fly for greater than 10 secs, we change the engine........

R32 Hicas lines from front to back along chassis rails. PM me

2.6L forged motor Tomei 260deg 9.15mm lift T517z 8.0cm @ 21psi 401.5kw atw pump fuel

Had a quick look at RB26 results: try this 18psi with high flowed steel wheels = 280 odd kws 18psi with -5s = 316kws ......... Only had a quick look - maybe there are others making more power on high flow steel wheels?? Post em up if you find them.....

after fitting Chads -5's, you would be VERY LUCKY to be able to pick them. I personally wouldn't spend so much on refurbished standard turbos when you can sell them, and fit bolt on (although be careful, not as bolt on as they imply) garretts or 2530s etc. Much more hp potential for less $$.

I'm running a PWR FC d-jetro and Trust T517z 8.0cm turbos. Had them rebuilt with oversize thrust bearings for when I turn up the boost and add E85.......