Blue32

of course, apart from driving it for real!!

Thats on turn 3 (immediately after pit straight). The track diagram doesn't do that corner justice, it is a lot sharper early on, then the radius drops rapidly. Gotta brake deep into it, then get on the noise as you apex No interstate racing as yet, my job has me away from home 6 months of the year at the moment. Will be doing Dutton, maybe Classic Adelaide, and some track days interstate in the next couple of years though....

Yeah, apart from the Alloy front guards, and single layer carbon bonnet, it is METAL

Happy to help out with some driver pointers - you have to remember on a practice day with a day CAMS licence you will be in with the less seasoned track drivers - you can go as fast or slow as you feel comfortable. Passing under brakes or on corners is also prohibited, so you don't have to stress about being muscled out of the way. Three legged GTR?

you did bloody well to spot me - I've only driven the car three times in the last few weeks!!!! Took a mate out to scare him........yep, worked!

find 2 other drivers and bring them all :-) It is mostly the high revs which causes the oil surge problem, but high G force also adds to the issue.

Definately bring more fuel Chad - and you'll need pads too. More grunt = more brake use at the track. I'll be taking full tank of fuel + 3 jerrys - which will only increase once there is E85 in the tank!! I'll have to get a fuel truck from work!!

oil cooler is nice to have but not essential at your level. Just check all your consumables - brake pads, fluids etc and bring fuel :-) my beast uses almost 2 litres per lap hehehe

The more the merrier I say - SAUSA invades Mallala!! Maybe Martin will bring the R35 out................

Not matter what you run out there - you'll have an awesome time! No speed limits, no defect stations.

The late model cranks are certainly better with the full width oil pump drive, and this will definately ensure your pump lasts longer, but ultimately it is the strength of the oil pump gear which lets you down. Also harmonic vibration through the crank doesn't help the standard pumps out, an aftermarket balancer will help to minimise the effects of this. In your application, I wouldn't be too concerned about your oil pump expiring unless you spend time on the rev limiter.

Larger gated sump will only aid the problem because you can have more oil trapped in the head whilst still having oil in the sump. The oil pump itself dictates how much oil is pumped around the engine - a high volume sump will not cause more oil (a greater flow) from the oil pump. If you change the sump, you will either need the engine out or at least remove the K frame and brakes / gearbox etc. Considering you need to remove sump to do oil pump, I would do this as well. Only the JUN / TOMEI pumps will not break on continued rev limiter abuse with the LARGER drive collar. N1 etc are still weak. Now that your engine is out to fit your sump, I would do the external head return too - which you should take the head off to ensure you can clean all the drill swath. Now you can fit the head restrictor :-) Might as well do your timing belt, water pump and bearings too. Gotta love the snowball effect of mod'ing a GTR...... N1 water pump = no issues what so ever with my beast on hot days with A/C on in traffic. And I have it underdriven 10% with my ATI balancer. The hype regarding these pumps is amazing to say the least. They are fine for any application, but will not cavitate at high RPM like the factory one can.

The high rpm is one of the main causes of oil filling the head, hence you fit a head restrictor to slow down the oil supply to the head, modify your returns including fitment of an external one to help oil return to the sump, all in order to stop the oil pump EMPTYING the sump and sucking air ( = spun bearing or possibly worse...) A high volume oil pump (JUN, TOMEI etc) will only exacerbate this problem, by pumping more oil out of of the sump per RPM. The counteract, you fit a much larger volume sump. The other issue is oil control, which you fit gated baffles in your sump to stop the oil from uncovering the pickup for the oil pump under high G forces (cornering, braking, launching on the 9000rpm limiter with 400kw atws......) hehehe Overfilling will also help this to a certain extent. Chad has run Mallala, as have I, with standard oil system and over filling of the sump. I won't guarantee you it will be fine, cos its an RB26!!! But you shouldn't have any issues. As for Oil Coolers - it is a pretty important mod. Standard engined cars (up to the 240rwkw region) are usually alright without one as long as you keep an eye on oil temperature. If you see anything gusting over 100 - 105deg then I would get of the gas and cool it down for a couple of laps before you ramp up again. This also gives your brakes time to cool (which they'll probably need) and gives your tyres a chance too. Once you start making more killerwasps, then coolers are essential. To give you an idea, my car runs an 11 litre oil system consisting of high volume gated sump, Tomei Oil Pump, Oil Head restrictor, External -10 return to the sump, dual stage catch can (one on rocker covers, one in place of battery, both returning to sump) Mines rocker cover baffles, and twin oil coolers and external oil filter block all thermostatically controlled. Coupled with N1 water pump, custom header tank kit and thick Koyo radiator, my oil temps never exceed 95 degrees and water 90degrees on the track, full noise for 15 mins. And yep, its fun!!!!

Daniel, The oil control mods are essential if you have a high powered GTR, especially once you go semi slicks and proper race setup wheel alignment. How many killer wasps are you making now? If you haven't much track experience, and are running street tyres, an overfilled sump will generally do the trick - because you won't be pulling the cornering G forces and using the engine high in its rev range as much as once when you are relatively inexperienced on the track. Not having a personal go at you or your driving, its just what people normally do

No worries Chad - remember, don't tell anyone the secret methods I use

WINNER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Not here for this event unfortunately - anyone want to cruise the GTR down for me......

405kawkw and standard coil packs - all good thus far (and I probably just jinxed myself :-)

a. sit around all day b. sit around all day AND race your car My vote is for b. You know you want to or perhaps: c. sit around all day AND race your car, then stay up all night cleaning it, then sit around all the next day

Grip practice day on the day before - I regretfully inform you I will not be entering, instead I will be suffering a horsepower hangover from going round and round the lala......

That was me alright - heading back home after spending the xmas vouchers at TTP......

See red above - here is your problem. This temp sensor is in the plenum and will not see vacuum at all. It needs the map sensors installed either in the no 3 and 4 runners as per the d=jetro instructions, or if you don't want to take the inlet manifold off to drill and tap, just tee the two lines of the map sensors from the PCV valve on top of the vacuum rail. I have had both setups on my 400+ awkw GTR and it makes ABSOLUTLEY NO DIFFERENCE to the tuning or results using either method for the map sensors. Also make sure the vacuum lines are equal length as per the instructions (150mm I think it was). If tuner has GTR/D jetro experience he should know this.............

PM sent

yep. 2.6 litre torque