Blue32

Yep - that old photoshop chestnut. its the cheapest way to mod your car! You guys going down to the NS.com druise tomorrow night? I think I'll go down for a look - but opt out on going on the cruise.May meet up at the end, after a bit of a quieter cruise with a few less cars..... Almost went on the last one - correct me if i'm wrong - that was when the police blocked all exits to the car park and went on a defect extravaganza? happy that I didn't.....

Ah yes - I would forgive you for thinking I was merely working on my immpecable physique (an extra pushup here and there goes a long way......) but no - just getting things into perspective. Notice the GTR lost its numberplate somewhere..........?

Sorry I haven't looked on here for a bit - busy with work! Here are some pics from the cruise and of the eng bay etc. Enjoy! :wassup:

Twas very enjoyable thanks all for the great arfternoon. Further to the discussions shall we try to organise drags/drift or track day all together. We could check out the next few organised events and take a few skylines out?

Can you confirm the 'usual meeting spot?' I am yet to cruise with the SAU guys - but alas - the RB25 R32 has told me it is keen.......

I'm up for a Sat Arvo/night cruise - what could be better than the tune of multiple RB engines????!!!!!!

s2 Rb25det K&N pod filter with cold air intake FMIC 3 inch full exhaust (including wastegate/turbo integrated dump pipe) Power FC R33 gtr fuel pump Sard fuel pressure reg Blitz Dual SBC std engine/turbo @ 1.1bar 210rwkw on 29deg day (Tilbrooks)

try the turbo to exhaust manifolds nuts for tightness - could be the exhaust-turbo gasket buzzin (sounds like a dying rabbit) inbetween the joint. Pretty common especailly if it happens as turbo builds boost (more pressure in manifold!)

pics coming tomorrow night

As stated stainless screamer pipe suit rb20/25 turbo. Bolt on - no mods required. $250 must sell :crazy:

As stated 1 x RB20DET complete computer/loom/turbo/afm made 160rwkw at Tilbrooks 1 month ago. (have converted to RB25 now plus one short motor no manifolds with suspected dead piston/rings suit rebuild must sell make an offer

My car made 210rwkw on Friday when I got the Pwr FC tuned on 1 bar. Goes really good now - the rb20 on 1 bar std computer only made 160kw!!! I strongly recommend the conversion as the extra torque is a god send - also the fact that the standard engine can make 210rwkw on 1 bar (with the usual fmic, exhaust, cold air induction/pod filter, r33 gtr fuel pump) is a good enough reason for me. The next mods will be probably 2835 or gt30/35, bigger injectors and maybe a 1.4mm head gasket for a solid 280 - 300 rwkws with enough torque to pull over a house (figuratively speaking - maybe not compared to a mining truck!!! I also have used the rb20 g/box currently - when the minister for finance allows another 'relaxing of the budget' i will upgrade to r33 box. FYI I think it needs a small trans tunnel massage (rubber mallet!) and the r33 auto x member. Also the r33 g/box yoke needs to be joined to rb20 tailshaft along with corresponding change of tailshaft length. Haven't measured it yet but will post once I do. s13 180 - i did leave the starter/alternator loom from the r32 in the car - the knock sensor loom is seperate and plugs into engine loom on rb20. The rb25 knock sensor loom (from memory) was incorporated in the rb25 starter/alt loom. I simply stripped it back till i had only the rb25 knock sensor loom and plugged it in wherever it went onto the engine loom.

Just finished conversion in my 32 and if you have a bit of mech knowledge it was piss easy. Recommended timing belt/water pump change prior to fitment All that was required is: Remove rb20 - leave ancillaries still in car (alt/pwr steer pump/ a/c and starter mtr 1) All rb20 ancillaries bolt straight up to rb25 (a/c + alt bracket is identical) 2) use rb20 engine mounts on rb25 (straight fit) 3) Heater hoses (at back of engine to firewall) are smaller on rb20 than rb25 - either make adapter to step down size from rb25 - rb20 or do what I did and heat up (in boiling water) the ends (the smaller rb20 pipes) that go on the engine, and expand them with pointy nose pliers, lube them up (car wash or detergent) and then slide them on. Simple fix. 4) Replace oil pressure SWITCH sender on rb25 (sensor under oil filter) with oil pressure SENDER unit off rb20. The alt/str mtr loom has the plug for this so connect it when the eng goes in. 5) replace the water temp sender (the smaller single blade plug type sensor) with the identical looking one off the rb20. The calibration of the wtr temp gauges is different between models - this will ensure your gauge still works correctly. 6) Change the harmonic balancer to the rb20 one to ensure your pulleys all line up with the belts. Also get an r31 (i think) skyline top radiator hose or r33 to fit - the rb20 bottom hose fits 7) The computer pwr/ign/inj pwr loom is the rectangular plug behind the airbox just next to the pwr steer resovoir - trace the wires and make adapter loom for the rb25 computer loom. (no need to remove lh guard????!!!!) 8) Trace wires for the windscreen wiper motor and connect in to the motor and in the foot well 9) Only speed sense, a/c trigger, tacho ( i think thats all) needs to be traced and connect in the foot well and then you are good to go!! Be advised your strut brace (like mine) may not fit after fitment as the engine is slightly taller (due the inlet manifold height) This conversion is the sh%t - the car is sssoooo driveable now - no off boost dull boring rb20 lacking torque - go through roundabouts in 3rd and accel out from 30km/h no probs. Oh yeah - if you fit a pwr fc and wind up the boost, the rb25 in the dry is just like the rb20 was in the wet - driftin' easy!

not at this stage - gonna use it till it goes bang!!!lol

For Sale: RB20DET motor including Computer, Loom, AFM, Turbo, Japanese Stainless Screamer pipe slight occasional miss in engine made 160kw@wheels this month (3rd of Sept 04) also RB20DET short motor (less manifolds etc) dropped one cylinder? suit rebuild also standard clutch ($50), fuel pump($50), standard type M front bumper including fog lamps ($150) Converting to RB25DET (Bring on the torque for drifting!!) $1250 the lot ONO (may separate) Prefer SA buyer