ahh 33 s2

Well I got the sump and ati, just need a stocker motor, Gerg: got the valves off a forum member on here, brand new but only got valves they was cheaper then Nissan replacements, doesn't look like any det, Dori: just weighing up what to do, def no plans for this until the new year tho,

Thanks heaps mate for the offer, I'm just trying think about what I wanna do with this, just got myself a nice daily, so atleast I can get too work now, The head itself looks pretty mangled in the combustion chamber, so will need to get some local opinion before I consider moving forward again

Yes my thinking too re carbon buildup

So just to clarify, the cam gear retarded itself some how, but if the belt was to jump a tooth or ten it would advance the cam would it not? Just trying to get my head around it

yeh would need new piston, if u can get a new piston, but with the CP locks, the dont look the easiest to get off, as the not actual circlips, so yeh dream over really

ok so the head is off and dame they is heavy when u leave the intake on and trying to go up and over ARP studs, and the news isnt good, 11 bent valves and 1 is now a limied edition 3 piece valve, so clearly cam timing is to blame, its something i never considered, i now wish i could have checked cam timing before the belt came off, but i couldnt turn the engine over to get it all back to TDC any way, it looks like all the intake valves have had a kiss with the piston and now are all sitting flat, and appear to be jammed against the head it self, hence why the lifters are sitting up againd the lobe, still able to rotate the exhaust cam and thats not fouling on the intake valves, so hear are the pics, number 1 number 2 number 3 number 4 number 6 and finally number 5 if there is any positives, the bottom end is not siezed, yay so where to go from here, i had to sacrifice a lot to do this build as i mentioned in the first post not alot was not upgraded is some way, and cannot afford to wuickly get this fixed, as theres prolly not to much salvagable, so maybe try pick up a second hand RB26 and strap the 6boost and 35R on to it, its really the only way i can see myself staying in a skyline,

Engine is out and wouldn't turn over by hand or starter motor, head will be off this arvo do pics will be up this evening

Interesting, so they wouldn't have been compatable with eithe the standard nissans or tomies, strange that only the inlet side seems to be affected then, Didn't see anything like that on the invoice,

Wa time and am at work, will have head off this arvo and girdle off to inspect bearings, pics will be up later

Certainly pointing to that at this stage, must have done well to do so coz it was dam tight when trying to take the thing off

Yeh it made a screeching noise, at first I thought it was a wiring issue with the starter as it kinda sounded like when u turn the car on when it's already on, it didn't sound like what I would imagine it to sound like when shit hits each other, The pic was not at tdc I just had the camera on an angle

yeh i was just pondering that in the shower just now, almost cracked a smile, a little of topic but how do u get ur head stud nuts and washers out of the head, just a magnet thingy mcbob. and will i be right to pull the girdle and big end caps off just to look for damage and then put em back on with the same bearings if all is ok?

the bottom end is not siezed, although wouldnt turn forward, could turn it backwards almost the hole way around and the forward again ubntil the same spot, not really thinking that clearly as its not a task i wanted to be doing, so didnt check the cam timing before i tooke the belt off, and have sinced moved the cam and what not so i could get to the head studs, belt was tight when i took it off and new when put on and still in good nick i can only presume the valve and retainers matched up as i didnt hear anything from the shop that did the work didnt even get the thing on gate as it had a boost cut in the ecu and stiff springs in the gate,

zebra, no pictures of both gears, i was prepared for spun bearings as its my first build, but not this kinda of part mutilation, and it doesntl look like it was oil pressure related as when it stopped i looked in the head and there was def oil up there, guides where new tomies, valves where new ferrea, springs where new tomie, so nothing should have failed, unless not done properly at the shop

what do you mean snoz, the shop said they checked my initial cam timing, pistons was just standard RB26 86.5mm pistons, head will be off tomorrow arvo, so will update with more pics and info but would this cause it to stop dead and not turn on at all and seem as tho its seized? as you can prolly imagine im rather guttered as this had been 3 years of hard saving and close to 25k in the making, and its all gone to shit, gave no signs of packing up, up intil this faitful day

on the inlet side the is a gap between the lifter and the cam lobe on all the cylinders except the cylinder that would have the valve open, on the exhaust side they are all up agianst the lobe

hi all, so my 500km old RB26 just shagged itseld in what looks like a fairly destructive fashion, a quick run down a quick run down. cp pistons, forged rods, ati balancer, nitto pump, balanced, +1mm in and ex valves, bronze guides, tomie buckets, and type b springs, tomie 10.8 x 270 in ane ex cams, tomie cam gears, 6boost and GT35 so built the bottom end myself and had all the head work done at a local shop, assembled the engine and put it in my self and had a loom and tune done at one of the better shops hear in perth, first build so told them to go over it with a fine tooth to make sure i hadnt missed or mucked anything up, obviuosly couldnt check the bottome end work, but was fairly confident in that work, so after 7 weeks at the shop i finally get the good new that it running and sounding healthy, at about 400km of driving i started to hear a noise, but only on warm start up idle for about 5 seconds or so, sounded like a knock but i never heard a engine knock before, so got it home and was gonna take it to the shop the next day, but before i did i got the mrs to start it with my head under the hood, no noise, sweet maybe i was paranoid, any way after a little bit of driving i turn it off and come back about 20 mins later, and we could both here this "knock" so was gonna get it towed to the shop but thought just see if it does it so turned on and no noise again, so drove it there hoping that if it was gonna do it, it would do it at the shop, not the same noise but the boys there couldnt here any internal suspicious noise so next day all happy that i have a healthy engine i turn her on let it warm up and then head off 150 metre down the road it comes to a screeching hault, would start or even turn over, feeling like shit i push it home and get it towed the next day to the shop, not even 10 minutes later i get told that its seized and what ever i want to do its not gonna be cheep, so i proceeded to swear a little and get heavily intoxicated, so get to the weekend time to pull it out, i notice the inlet cam gear has retarded itseld by 2.5 marks on the gear and start to think that hey maybe i didnt stuff up but this was overlooked at the shop, although realising that this is probably more damaging then bearing and what not, any way i havent got the head off but pulling plug number 5 out something has definatly come incontact with it, which further made my heart sink, looking at the bottom end there is no discolouration in the rods but again i havent pulled the girdle or the rod caps off, so after that novel my question is, do you think retarding the inlet cam by that much would be enough to hit the pistons, and cause the car to stop and not start and seem as tho it is seized, so as you can see in the pics u can see how much it has moved by, and that it looks like the buckets arent pushed up against the lobe on the inlet side but the exhaust side looks normal, and also the engine would rotate backwards but not forwards, im not looking to blame the workshop, but just want some sort of answer thanks for reading, and hopefully providing some answers, ill upload more pics as i get them

Yes they all show the control box diagram for the electrical gauges, I just got two gauge that are mech and have an electrical as well and all boxes are the same, eBay trader was turboredz by any chance?

Zing

yeh there is a large discussion on CP piston to bore clearence in the FI section, think it was started by TriniGT, with paul from Red R/twoogle, haveing a lot to say about going tighter, i ended up just going with CP spec, and the rings were all perfect, thought this would be easier as it was my first build and not time for experementing with different size gaps, dan

Cheers guys will check out go gear. How expensive is dam expensive? I guess I'll find out

Looking to protect my turbo lines, where in wa can I get this stuff in -6 and -10? Also some thing to go over the heater hoses, they are very close to the dump, and shits about to get hot in the bay Cheers dan

Agree with pal, on both points 1 minute bump, not of any benefit, and I would much rather see/drive my car before buying it

Yeh I cut end off a cheap screw driver to make my punch, they are on darn tight that's for sure

I used a hammer and a big punch thingy, and tapped it around and around