JustinP

89 now... I guess after all this time of watching the counter I should have actaully signed up for it!

These are the guys that translated the R33 full manual: http://www.jpnz.co.nz/afawcs0131170/CATID=24/SUBID=273/page=1/products.html They need a number of requests before they will translate the R34 one. I have watched it for a couple of years now and it has barely increased above the 80 requests they have so far.

Yep it covers all of that.

I have the full R34 manual (900 odd pages, not the more basic workshop manual), but it's in Japanese. I am pretty sure nobody has translated it yet like they did for the full R33 manual.

Yep it's the same size fitting to the MAF sensor.

Reason I went with the open air (and difficult to fit) sensor was because of the info here: http://www.linkecu.com/products/InstallationAccessories/Sensors/intakeairtempsensors But if yours is working fine maybe I should get a closed / threaded sensor too so its easier to fit. They are cheap enough too. My intake temp readings are going to be screwed anyway as I will be running water methanol injection after the IAT sensor (Link advised the water/meth would kill the sensor if injected ahead of it). So the water/meth will drop my temps much lower that what the IAT sensor sees anyway.

I havent really thought about how im going to seal the IAT sensor in there yet The Bosch sensor has a little rubber o-ring on it so I figure I will drill a hole the exact same size as the sensor part, the rubber o-ring should hold it somewhat but I'm going to have to seal it in there with something else to ensure there is no chance of any leaking.

This is the suitable IAT sensor: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/290588812480?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_2097wt_689 I confirmed with Link support that this was the correct one for my application.

I recently bought a Link G4 plugin for my R34 GT-T and it does not have an onboard MAP sensor. I thought they did come with one onboard, but maybe that the other versions (typical R34's, everything is always a little different!). I needed to get a MAP sensor anyway as I was going to be running higher boost than what the 2.5 bar would allow anyway. I bought a Haltech branded GM type MAP sensor which you can also configure the ECU to use. A 2.5 bar MAP sensor would meet your needs as that could read up to about 21psi. I have not installed mine yet but my understanding is that you can wire the IAT sensor up to the AFM plug and then configure the ECU to use that input for the IAT sensor. The suitable IAT sensor for forced induction applications is the Bosch open air type IAT sensor. I will find the part number for you. I beleive the two different threaded IAT sensors are for NA applications. Unfortunately the Bosch open air type sensor is not threaded and is gong to be a bitch to install into the intake piping.

Actually buy one of these and support a fellow SAU member Good price too.

Yes I bought one of these from this guy. The collar is very good and delivery was quick. My machining guy asked where I got it from because it was better than the ones he had been using. Also when I bought it I did some research on these items. I found an Australian engine parts / engine building company selling the same items for $150. I can't remember which company it was but it seemed reputable. I also bought a couple of oil restrictors from this same eBay guy, one had a bit of a burr on it which I needed to clean up but other than that they were OK.

PLEASE don't!

Yep Tony at Nostech is very knowledgable for machining / engine building. He did my crank, crank collar etc, also did a mates GTR crank too, and the crank for my dads BMW race car. He seems to know his shit!

What colour is the smoke?

I have the same fans / shroud, although my car is still not put together. I will be using them with a new alloy radiator and an electric water pump (I have welded a plate onto the standard water pump, removing all the guts of it). I will also use a digital controller that will monitor temps and adjust the water pump speed and fan speed to reach the target temp. It also can be set to run for a couple minutes after the car is turned off. Hopefully it will all work well! Quality on the fans / shroud seems pretty good.

Take battery out and smash the clip things that hold it in, then gaffer tape the battery back in. That will take it to the next level!

15000RPM SAS? This thread has well and truly gone down the toilet

Well that's OK then. As long as the external hard drive has 600HP.

No your laptop is shit. It didn't cost 6k and it doesn't even have 600HP.

RB26's from R32's need the collar.

It was more that the Adaptronic comes with a usable 4 Bar MAP sensor, rather having to buy a bigger external one for the Link, and it also supports knock control where as you have to buy the KnockBlock for the Link, so with that in mind it's well priced. Still I have decided to get the Link anyway due to the software it uses.

I was just about to order myself a Link G4 Plugin today for my GTT! Im still keen on the Link but I'll have a look at these Adaptronics too, they didn't have anything for the GTT last time I checked.

Haha that's what I was thinking. Computer "technician"... I wouldn't let anyone near a computer that calls themselves a computer technician. Anyway back on topic!

I would just put the stock intercooler back on. If everything else is standard that was not a good first choice of modifications.

They are definately the head to block dowels, I installed mine just the other day and they were the same (with the split). I also used ARP studs with them. I would definately take the head back off and install them.