JustinP

I would like to do that as it would maximise the clearance in front of the engine, but it looks to me like the water gallery behind that (in the block) might be a bit too small for sufficient water flow? The water pumps have a cavity about a centimetre thick to allow the water to flow through, where as the cavity in the block is only a few millimetres deep at most. That would be the ideal solution though, I will take another look at it when I get home.

I am using this kit: http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electric_Water_Pumps-EWP115_Alloy___Controller_Combo__12V____PART_No_8050-details.aspx The above controller will also be controlling 2 thermo fans which are mounted in an aluminium shroud which will be used with a 40mm alloy radiator. Will also be using an oil cooler. I am really hoping I can make the electric setup work well!

Does anyone know if you can buy an "off the shelf" water pump blanking plate? I will be trying an electric water pump setup and I need to block off the water pump area on the front of the block, but still allow the water to flow through. Or does anyone in the Perth area have an old dead water pump they want to throw away that I could have? It might just be easiest for me to use an old water pump and grind off the pulley section and weld a plate over that. My water pump is cracked which is why I need another one!

Loose bolts on turbo or exhaust manifold.

2 to 3 minutes of consistent WOT... Where are you driving that thing, across seven airport runways in a row?!

I am getting an oil / air separator made up. It has 2 inputs and 1 output which runs to normal turbo intake bit (I'm leaving the PCV untouched). Question is the right hand cam cover has the 2 outputs on it (RB25DET Neo), and I just need the one. Is it easy to remove the twin output and replace it with the same single mitered output? Where would I get this from? I have the option of having mitered pipe inputs / output on the catch can (which I would prefer for ease), or i can choose -10AN fittings which would be more of a headache as I guess I would need to get these welded into the cam covers themselves, and get all the required fittings. Any help greatly appreciated!!!!

Yep you need to get CP to make you custom pistons to suit the Neo engine, none of their off the shelf items will work.

Yes thanks for this info, very timely as I'm just about to do mine for the first time too. I'm also using 86.5mm CP pistons. I bought a relatively cheap ring grinding tool. Hope it will be ok!

Would anyone recommend following the above advise (thicker and semi synthetic) when running water methanol injection?

I did buy the complete Nissan VRS kit for the RB25DET Neo and the valve stem seals came in the kit. Problem being the kit included one bag of 12 valve stem seals with one part number, and another bag of 12 valve stem seals with another part number, so I would have assumed the parts are slightly different with one for the exhaust side and and one for the intake side.

hmmmmm the head people want me to check which set goes on what side (intake / exhaust), just in case they are different. Surely someone else has come across this before when replacing valve stem seals on an RB25DET Neo head? Help!!! Thanks

Yep they look the same as far as I can see. OK, will just leave it up to the head servicing people to put them where ever Thanks

In the Nissan FAST software it just shows the intake valve stem seals as 13207 (does not show the second part of the part number), and shows the exhaust valve stem seals as 13207+A (also with no second part of part number). Still no closer to understanding which side is which!

Can anyone explain why when you buy a Nissan full gasket kit that it comes with one bag of 12 valve stem seals with a part number of 13207-D4201 and another bag of 12 valve stem seal with a part number of 13207-5L300? They look exactly the same and the parts list just describes both items as Oil Seal - valve stem! I presumed 12 were for the intake valves and the other 12 were for the exhaust valves, but which are which?! Are they interchangeable? I'm sending it all of to the head servicing people tomorrow and I just want to make sure they install them correctly. Thanks

Yes the Neo does have a lot going for it, but still I think I would choose the RB26 due to the ITB's. It does sound better too. After market parts support is better for the RB26 too when compared to the Neo version of the RB25.

There was a very big thread on this exact topic if I remember correctly - probably best to find that.

T88. Anything smaller is ghey.

Keep us up to date, very interested in how this goes!

You know what would be even more fun that getting $100 for this? Setting it off in your garage! Videoing it of course and sticking it on YouTube.

Ouch... That is it. Due to a number of reasons which I won't go into here my R34 had some 91 RON fuel put into it (also runs a PowerFC with no knock protection). Results - dead engine haha. The one upside is I get to rebuild it better, but that has almost been 2 years in making so far... Drive it really carefully, whilst continually topping it up with 98 RON fuel till its filled with it.

Geeeez it's obviously the coil packs. Just bite the bullet, buy some Splitfires, and enjoy some trouble free motoring for a few more years (or at least until something else breaks!)

Nope, there is a third unrestricted oil gallery for the VCT towards the front of the block, this should not be restricted at all. I bought 2 x 1.5mm Tomei restrictors for my Neo which I will put in over the top of the 2 x stock 2mm restrictors. Some people recommend completely blocking the rear restrictor altogether and just using 1 smaller restrictor in the other one, but it depends on your oil pump choice. By the way I found out that the Neo's come with an N1 oil pump as standard.

Two.

I use one, its basic and works well, and as you say it is integrated with the Power FC / Hand Controller which was a plus for me. It doesn't do any staged boost settings as you describe.