JustinP

Low mount. High mount = cop magnet.

Would anyone know the part number for a set of front Ferodo DS2000 brake pads for an R34 GT-T? Also does $150 for a set sound like an OK price? Cheers!

hehe probably he. I know every now and then he does give it a bit.

My dads got one. You really wouldn't need bigger brakes, and they go really good, but yer I would be flashing the ECU pretty quick. Some people are making good power gains with nothing more. I'm hoping to buy my dads in about a year hehe. Hopefully he will sell it cheap to me, and I know he never thrashes it.

I love the new GTR, and yes V6's are better for weight distribution, but I6's will always be superior. They are smoother and more refined as they are inherently balanced. And they sound awesome! And while many manufacturers are moving to V6's, I can assure you BMW will not as is one of their trademarks. I think my next car is going to be a BMW 335i.

haha this is one of the funniest threads I have seen on this forum

I have purchased an ARC FMIC for my R34, just like the picture, and I'm (finally) going to install it in the next week or so. It shows the front reinforcement bar being cut out to make it fit, I thought that it would install in front of the bar, and I would just have to cut out the inside of the front bumper. Am I correct, or do I have some metal cutting to do? I hope not, seems dodgy!!!

Thanks guys, that could be the problem as I have not actually changed them before! (got the car with 64,000k's). If they are dead it will be a lot better than having to fork out $500 for the Splitfires. Would it be possible that the spark plugs have been causing the fuel economy to become so much worse?

Has this made much difference when driving the car? I brought some fibreglass last year, and still have not gotten around to making mine. I'm on holidays as of tommorow so I'm definately doing mine in the next couple of weeks. I'm going to try and make a fibreglass lid though.

My car has recently started occasionally misfiring when I accelerate hard, I am assuming it’s the coil packs, but could it be anything else? Car is a 98 R34 with about 85,000ks, running about 12psi, PFC, etc. Also in the last few months, the fuel consumption has gone from awful (about 330k's a tank, not thrashing it), to absolutely awful (about 260k's per tank, also driving fairly sedately). Would this be a symptom of failing coil packs? If so looks like I should order some Spitfires. Thanks

Name: Justin Lives in: Victoria Park Born: 1978 Occupation: ICT Hobbies: IT stuff, gaming, RC stuff, cars Car: R34 GT-t 4 door

Hi Could someone recommend a really good alarm supplier / installer in the Perth Metro area? I know nothing about alarms and I want to make sure I get a good installer who knows what they are doing. Also should I get an Autowatch Blue or Mongoose M80 alarm? Thankyou!!!!!! :laughing-smiley-014:

Exacty! Nissan copied the idea from Porsche from the beginning! And not just the 4WD system either.

Sound like the noise that comes from my car. Mine also seems to come from the drivers side. Mine does not seem to affect performance though. I've just gotten used to it :laughing-smiley-014: although I suddenly realise just how loud it is when I'm driving through a tunnel or along a wall when I put my foot down.

I get about 300km a tank in my R34 (205rwkw). Changed the O2 sensor, tuned Power FC, etc, and that seems to be the best I can get. You might have to get used to that kind of economy unfortunately! That is pure city driving though, with only the occasional bit of a thrashing. If I'm driving out in the country I can get up to 450km a tank.

Will I need to get my PFC tune touched up after upgrading to a FMIC from the stock SMIC in an R34 GT-t? If so it should not cost much should it as they will just need to make some minor changes? Cheers :laughing-smiley-014:

Ahh yes you were the guy with that thread! Thanks for replying I think I might get one then, I just hope I don't have to cut the reo bar on my 34... I am looking at maybe 240-260rwkw at at a later stage but if I guess it's not suitabe for that level of power I can always sell get soemthing better. They are only $185 anyway And they would have to do a better job than the standard SMIC, especially in terms of heatsoak.

I know this has been covered somewhat before, someone was going to purchase one of these http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...p;rd=1&rd=1 and try it out but I never heard about the results... I would just like to know if they are any good? My only real concern is the tightness at which the end tank turns around - would this be a problem? I am wanting to put it on an R34 GT-t as while the stock SMIC is OK for the 210rwkw's the car has, it suffers from heatsoak when in heavy traffic, even in the winter. The one sided FMIC appeals to me for the simplicity of the pipe work and I don't really want to spend around 1K on ond of those Blitz or ARC ones that have the return pipe coming back under the FMIC. Also, I should not need to retune my PFC when upgrading the SMIC to an FMIC should I? Cheers :laughing-smiley-014:

The R34 SMIC is supposed to be good at up to around 200rwkw. I've got just a bit more than that and I'm still using the stock SMIC. I think I will need to get a smallish FMIC when summer comes around as its very borderline now on hotter days with detonation and loss of performance. It's fine when its in the low 20's or cooler though. With your level of modifications at the moment the R34 SMIC will be fine, don't bother upgrading the IC.

Just get a GCG high flow.

Keep it stock!

Looks good. I am just about to make something like this for my R34, but I was thinking of using fibre glass to make it. I haven't worked with fibre glass before so hopefully it will go OK I was goind to do the same thing but make it fully enclosed if possible.

Just buy the Turbotech one, or spend even more and get an EBC. No point spending $100 on a MBC when the Turbotech works so well. I had one up until recently and it worked perfectly.

In these situations it really is best to know how it all works (turbo and how boost is controlled). It's pretty simple and it means you won't even have even really look at the instructions, or even ask anyone. If you don't understand how it works, learn about it, then it will all become clear. Otherwsie you could do some serious damage.

Just wire the solenoid up to the existing wiring from the old solenoid, polarity does not matter. Then (from memory), COM goes to the wastegate actuator, and NO goes to the turbo. The other one is not used in your case. Then if the MAP sensor is connected and wired into the PFC correctly, just enable it in the settings, set your boost profile, and BAM! You're ready to go.