JustinP

Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated. I will continue with my plan to plumb the turbo return back into the top radiator hose and won't bother with a breather tank. The plate over the old water pump will be fine, the body of the old pump is still there so there is plenty of room for the coolant to move through. The plate is just to seal where the old clutch fan connected. Yes I am using an alloy Davies Craig EWP. I will be happy even if it only lasts 400 hours, the car won't be driven much!

I have been thinking about how I need to route everything cooling system wise on my R34 Neo build. I want to ensure that the correct coolant flow paths are maintained. I have been referring to this which has been quite useful: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423082-rb25-coolant-flow-hose-swirl-pot-header-tank-setup/?hl=%2Bremove+%2Bheater+%2Bpiping However my setup is a bit different and possibly pretty unique. I would really appreciated thoughts on my proposed solution. My setup will be as follows: Running a plenum similar to the Hypertune ones. It has no coolant hose connections at all, other than the ports coming out of the head and the radiator top hose outlet. I'm running an electric water pump which is controlled by a computer. The water pump is located inline on the bottom radiator hose. No thermostat is installed. Old water pump internals have been removed and a plate welded over the front to seal it up. The heater and heater pipes have been removed. Oil warmer/cooler and piping has been removed. No throttle body warmer will be used. So basically I am left with just the turbo water return line and the IAC/AAC valve thing to worry about (I guess I might as well keep the cold start functionality). I want to keep things as simple as possible. Originally I was thinking that I would need to route the turbo return and the IAC valve to either the hose connections coming out of thermostat housing (1 and 2 on kitto's pictures in the link above) or from the connection towards the rear of the block (3, 4 and 5). Due to my water pump setup / location I don't think this will work for my applications. I am proposing the following: Block the hose connections coming from the thermostat housing (1 and 2). Block the rear connection on the block (3, 4 and 5). Run the turbo coolant return line through the IAC valve (it has three connections, I will block the middle one). Plumb the outlet of the IAC valve into an adapter which will go into the radiator top hose near the plenum outlet. I think I need to setup as above as the turbo will be fed coolant under pressure from the passenger side of the block and I will need to ensure the return goes back somewhere on the other side of the water pump. Given the location of my water pump I think this would be the best option? I also no longer have the coolant bleed points and I was thinking of getting a swirl pot / breather tank, however I think the radiator cap will now be the highest point in the system, so I'm hoping I don't have to worry about that either? The only part of the system that I think might be around the same height will be the turbo water feed line (high mount turbo). Sorry for the long post, but if any learned SAU members could give me some feedback i would greatly appreciate it!! Cheers

I'm assuming he just swapped the splash guards... Surely!

Impressive. I really need to learn 3D design and get myself a 3D printer.

It looks like it bolts to the head where you would usually bolt on the engine removal hook for the drivers side. Given that when removing the engine you are hanging the entire engine (and maybe the gearbox as well) from that same point, I don't think the damper is going to give you much grief! That being said, I don't think I would even bother installing one of these...

Gran Turismo 2.

Got torque? Oh wait, no... But it is Xmas, and if you believe strongly enough, maybe Santa can make RB20's more awesome. At least just for today.

I have been thinking about this for a while too, although I only have a single throttle body to worry about. I would love to hear from anybody who has done this successfully in conjunction with a Link G4 ECU. For the RB26 and ITB's, using the M3 part would be a good idea. They are fairly easy to come by as the M3 uses two of them and they tend to fail quite regularly, so it is a pretty commonly stocked item.

Might be worth looking at http://www.plxdevices.com/ They make a number of modules for various sensors and then you can connect a number of screens of various sizes, all mounted within the usual gauge sizes. Everything connects in a daisy chain fashion and then you can scroll through the sensor outputs on any screen. There is some basic on-screen graphing of sensor output over time, but not really logging as such. The sensor modules do have outputs though that you could potentially feed into other systems for proper logging.

Hmmm I did some searching. Impressive! I'm going down that path now.

Is anyone running an EFR8374 with 0.92 A/R T4 twin scroll (internal wastegate) on an RB25/26? What sort of power could be made with this turbo, WMI setup and other required supporting mods? I have not been able to find much info about actual results with this turbo. Cheers Justin

hahah

Thanks for all the feedback and thoughts, much appreciated After doing more research I really am tempted by some of the BW EFR series products (T4 twin scroll). The idea of having the BOV and boost control solenoid built into the compressor housing is appealing as it would reduce the complexity of my setup somewhat and I would need slightly less fabrication work done. It does look a bit ugly though! Even the idea of running an IW version is growing on me, that would really simplify things for me. It just seems counter-intuitive to go down that path though if I will be running up around the 30psi mark. Should I really consider an IW version over an external setup at those power / boost levels? Are they really able to flow enough and control boost well? I'm also thinking I might bump up my power goal a little, would be nice to crack the 400rwkw mark The only thing is I think my fuel system will not be up to it. Cheers Justin

Cheers, thanks for that. And yes elevated rpm will be more the norm I think I think I might give the 1.01 housing a go. Im not against looking at other turbo's, and given I'm going to need to get everything fabricated anyway there would be no issue in changing. I will do a bit of research on the Borg Warner line.

I know usual wisdom states that when using a GT30 series turbo on an RB25 that you go with a 0.82 A/R rear (or 0.63 if you really want response). The 1.06 rears are better left to RB30's. However I have heard some comments from people saying that if you have a proper twin scroll setup you can get away with the bigger rear turbine on a 2.5L or thereabouts engine, gaining a lot of top end performance with not much loss in response. For my never ending build I had bought and installed an IW GTX3071R with 0.82 rear, mounted to the OEM exhaust manifold. I have changed directions yet again and I've decided to go with a high mount and externally wastegated setup. Therefore I will need to sell my rear housing and get a new one to suit. I will likely be going for a twin scroll 6boost manifold. I was looking for a new turbine housing and noticed these newer Garrett models with a 1.01 A/R instead of 1.06 A/R: http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-HSG-211&Category_Code=NGH Given a twin scroll setup will improve response and given that 1.01 is slightly less of a jump compared to 1.06, is going for the bigger rear housing a silly idea? The car will not be my daily driver or anything, so I'm not looking for fantastic response and would be happy having the additional power. But I don't want it to be so laggy its just stupid. I know the GTX's like more boost and will be running as much as it will take. The car is also running a bigger cams and forged / balanced bottom end, so happy to use higher revs if needed. I also will be running a WMI setup. And I'm running 86.5mm pistons, so there is a tiny bit more capacity there too Thoughts on the idea?

Damn, that went quickly! Thanks to all those who responded. Sold pending payment.

I'm selling a genuine ARC intercooler kit to suit an R34 GT-T. My R34 project has changed direction and I'm now going with a forward facing plenum, so sadly I will be selling this ARC unit. These are now discontinued and are quite rare. The intercooler is a very high quality Japanese made item and is very lightweight. I bought it new from Japan (Nengun) and it cost me well over $1k (could have been closer to $1,500 from memory). It is in very good condition, it still almost looks new! It would have only done about 3,000km's in the car from new before I took it off the road to begin my rebuild project (four years and counting...). The kit comes with everything needed to fit the intercooler to an R34 GT-T. It was very easy to fit and unlike some cheap kits everything lined up perfectly. From memory you just need to trim a bit of the inside of the reo bar and a little from the inside of the bumper bar. As it is turnflow unit, you don't need to cut any holes in the body for the piping and you don't have the pipes crossing back over inside the engine bay - it all looks very stock. The only thing I couldn't find was the ARC sticker with the classic bad Japanese-English message on it, but I have seen this somewhere recently. I will try and find it and if so will include it with the sale. It includes the original instruction manual, but its in Japanese. That being said the pictures are easy to follow. I'm looking for $525 for the complete kit, plus delivery (from Perth). Cheers Justin

If you are interested, I have a complete return flow intercooler setup which I was thinking of selling soon. it is a high quality genuine ARC kit with everything required to install. It is the specific R34 GT-T model and was easy to fit, everything lined up as it supposed to. PM me if interested. It worked very well for me but I'm rebuilding the car (have been for the past four years...) and recently decided to go forward facing plenum, so I need to change the intercooler to suit.

I would be interested in seeing some code too. I bought an Arduino ages ago and I'd forgot I even had it. Now I can think of lots of automotive related things to use it for.

Yep, the E9x M3's run two sumps and two oil pumps!

Air conditioning? Ain't nobody got time fo that!

The E92 M3 will be cheaper to maintain / service I would think. Engine oil change intervals are 25,000km (I will change mine more frequently though). Although the oil isn't cheap, I just got my first oil change done on mine and the oil (10 liters of Castrol TWS Motorsport oil) was $43 a litre! It has been a relatively cheap car to maintain overall though. It does get very poor fuel economy though, I don't know how it can use so much!

Has anyone been testing the actual ethanol content of WA United E85 yet? I've been building my R34 for well over three years now and its still not finished (due to several factors including a motorbike accident and two broken wrists!), but I had already installed a WMI system in it. Now that E85 is available in Perth I can't not run E85 due to it's awesomeness, but I'm thinking of doing something crazy and still running the WMI system with the E85 I know it probably wont add much if anything (other than extra weight, complexity and potential unreliability), but WTF I'm going to try it anyway!

I can't believe its finally here...

WTF?! I'm paying over $1,700 for my 2012 BMW M3!