JustinP

I was babying the car and detonation levels were all fine... but then I got a bit over confident with it running OK and semi accidentally gave it a bit... Also the tune at the time was never 100%.

I definitely would not recommend using 98 + octane booster. Due to some flooding that we had a few years ago, I got stranded in my R34 and was forced to use 91 RON fuel as it was the only option I had to get home. I added octane booster as a safeguard. Still suffered engine failure haha Thankfully I can laugh about it now! 3 years and counting and I still have not finished rebuilding it! I would recommend the water / methanol option. But remember, as you are relying on it for everyday driving you need to make sure the setup is ultra reliable and has the appropriate failsafes.

I agree. I don't run one of your turbo's, but judging by the feedback on here I know you are putting out some great products with fantastic service to match, not to mention you are obviously putting a lot of R&D into your products. I do think however it would be worth considering coming up with naming convention that is broken up into distinct series and generations to make it clearer what your are offering. I have always been a bit confused Maybe its just me!

Well why are the PS2's so much more expensive than the PSS's?! I just bought a set of PS2's for my M3 and looked everywhere to get the cheapest price, and the PSS's were cheaper than the PS2's everywhere. Cost me a fricken fortune

I can, Michelin PS2's!

I used one on my old setup, worked perfectly and it was great as it was one less thing inside the car with everything controlled through the hand controller.

I have an ARC intercooler for my R34 GTT and it looks different to what you have pictured. The return on mine is actually behind the intercooler, rather than below it as pictured. I think thats the R33 ARC turn flow intercooler.

I've been having the same issue. Chrome / OSX 10.8.

The computer behind the rears seats in R34's is for the TCS / HICAS. The ECU is in the passenger footwell area.

Cheers, will do!

Any luck Daniel? Or anyone else? Name a price! Here is a link to a picture of what I am after, I don't know why the one I attached disappeared. http://www.adaptcomputer.com.au/files/Cam%20Cover%20Breather%20Fitting.JPG

There is a full workshop manual for the R34, but it's only in Japanese. The R33 manual covers most things for the Neo, but there are quite a few differences.

Cheers Daniel

Did that work? Something seemed to happen to the forum earlier.

I don't suppose anyone has a spare cam cover breather fitting (as per attached picture) from an RB25DET Neo that they no longer need? And are happy to either donate or sell to me?

They will be fine, they have been proven time and time again to idle and tune pretty much better than anything else, smaller injectors included. To answer your other question further up, yep get the plugs and pins option rather than pigtail connections. That way you can just remove your old plugs and reconnect the USCAR ones to the existing wiring.

You want the 1000.48.14 model ID1000's for the Neo. They drop straight in, 48mm long and 14mm on both ends.

Extra injector/s in the intake piping used to be very common.

Let's just hope he actually sends all the lines to you and bits are not missing... The braided line kits he sells are pretty good quality though.

I know the exact noise you mean, my motorbike has always made the same noise when its hot, from new. Sometimes even 24 hours + after driving it.

I have one of these, but I can't tell you how it is as I'm still building the car Seems pretty well put together though. I will be using it with a cooling pro radiator and an EWP with a digital controller controlling the EWP and the thermo fans. I will also be using an oil cooler.

Are we talking gaining a few kW's by running a fuel cooler, or something more significant?

Mine is 7.4 Megabytes.

There ALWAYS is, unfortunately.

RB25 Neo pistons are different.