JustinP

If your having problems with CP pistons then the problem lies in the build of the engine, not with the parts.

I would also like for someone to persuade me that I need one of these

How much did that cost you? And do they do one to specifically suit an R34 GTT? I like the look of their design which is why I like the ebay one I posted up above.

Has anyone ever tried one of these cheap chinese (or thai?!) items for an R34? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/R34-skyline-RB25DET-GTT-NEO-RB25-DET-intake-manifold-90-/170501510358?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27b2ae94d6&_uhb=1#ht_4521wt_974 I've been tempted to give one a go but its only going to delay me finishing my build even more, and I would need to change intercooler and a few other bits

You had the smaller inner boot installed yer? The one that seals it up, not the big outer one?

Beat me to it

Nope, coupe and 4 door have different exhausts.

Very interested to see if the stock balancer fixes the vibration issue...

Commodore 64.

If you did that you would have to be extremely careful not to ever come onto boost if you had really ramped up the boost / timing with the WM mixture injecting. Otherwise good bye motor very very quickly! I wouldn't feel comfortable driving it around like that for any period of time! Just get a float sensor for the tank and a warning light, and carry some extra WM with you. Or invest in a failsafe device. I recently bought the AEM failsafe device which looks very good. I will use it to trigger a second map in the ECU.

Thats a good way to describe it. The semi regularity (but still rapid) nature of pinging is a good way to differentiate it from from other more regular vibration kind of noises. Still its pretty quiet so it still can be hard to hear over all the other engine / exhaust noises. As others have said, if it is pinging and everything is pretty much stock, it's most likely your base timing is out and you need to adjust your CAS.

I packed mine full of soap! I don't know why my dad suggested I use soap, but it worked well.

haha oh dear....

Ouch

Timing belt is too tight.

lol!

pffft. thats pretty quick... I guess...

And they certainly wouldn't be running cast iron blocks!!!

It definitely makes more sense to use the SR20... as long as you dont mind driving around with ear muffs on to hide how crappy they sound

Has any one got any pics of their "flocked" dash? Also any idea's of cost?

No.

Ahh yes it was 0.45mm... Which is what I set mine too. Hope mine are not too noisy when I get it going

I'm not actually sure, I had the whole head rebuilt / reconditioned by someone and they set the clearances.

If I remember correctly (I recently installed the same cams), Tomei says the correct clearance is 0.4mm (intake and exhaust). Seemed quite large, but who was I to argue with the manufacturer So thats what I set mine to. I also installed stronger valve springs.

Yes I should complain given the cost, but to be honest I'm sick of dealing with them and waiting to actually install it, so I'm just going to leave it. It shouldn't have any effect on it balance or function, or at least I hope!