JustinP

Recently when I had my engine / gearbox out I installed a new spigot bush bearing in the end of the crank and I installed a new Jim Berry clutch setup. Jim strongly advised that everything be clean and grease / oil free inside the bell housing. I cleaned everything so it was all spotless, with new gearbox front seal and front cover seal. I soaked the spigot bush in oil as per normal before installing it but I also (stupidly) put a little bit of oil (half an oil can squirt) into the cavity where it sits, before putting the gearbox back on. After putting the engine / gearbox back into the car I noticed a few drips of oil coming out from the bottom of the bell housing. Im assuming this ran out of the spigot bush cavity and down the surface of the flywheel / clutch plate. There is probably only 4 or 5 drips worth on the ground, is there any chance this will affect the clutch in terms of grip. Or will it just burn off when it heats up? Cheers Justin

Yep, that's now the plan I need to vent the fuel vapour line anyway as the charcoal canister is now gone, I will run both lines up together.

I might give that a go

Woops, didn't think of putting it in the driveline area But thanks

Shiiiit. It bolts on right at the top of the gearbox. I wish I had of bolted that on before putting the motor / gearbox back in the car. I will have to find somewhere else to install it.

Cheers, I think I will do the same. Now to find a place to punch the cable through from inside the boot to under the car.

The little hook shaped gearbox breather pipe, what does it bolt to?! I'm putting everything back together and can't remember where it went!

A quick question to those who have installed a WMI (and locate the tank in the boot) - do people prefer to run the water / meth line under the car near the fuel lines, or run the lines through the cabin under the carpet? Thanks

He's running a Z32 AFM.

Yes CP supplies all measurements in inches. From memory I think they specify that the bore must be less than 0.0002" out of round.

This is zee forced induction section...

Has anyone used one of the Kinagawa actuators before? Specifically this one: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290784794658&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en#ht_1998wt_1414 And if so: 1) Are they any good? 2) I assume this would fit a GTX3071R (A/R .60 front cover)? 3) Is the top of the actuator rotatable so I can reposition the boost input to any direction I like? Cheers! Justin

Cheers - thanks for confirming

OK so I installed using the new dampener. but could someone please confirm its OK to leave the second single earth line from the Tomei pump unconnected under the white lid? I'm about to screw that horrible black ring back on now and I would rather not have to take it off again!

I am installing a Tomei fuel pump and it came with a genuine Nissan part (17065-05U00, A Valve Cut). Am I correct in assuming this is some kind of a dampener and I should replace the OEM small pinkish item which is pictured below with the new larger and metal item? Second question - as you can see in the last image the pump has a second single earth wire and plug, in addition to the normal lead. The OEM pump does not have this and the white plastic fuel tank lid does not have anywhere for this to go so I cant plug it in to anything. Will this be OK? It appears to just be an earth to the body of the pump. Cheers

Can you please also PM me a price for the ID 1000cc injectors to suit an R34 GT-T, with the plugs. I'm looking for something that is pretty much drop in on the standard fuel rail. Thanks Justin

Definitely agree with all of the above. All of the information you need is in these forums and you really need to find it, read it, and understand why it is the way it is. That will be the only way to make the right decisions which will give you the best outcomes for your particular goals. If you just ask people for the answers you will be putting together a sub optimal package.

Does the stacker work?

Does anyone know if an R34 GTR snorkel will fit an R34 GTT (obviously connected to a custom air box).

Shiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiit, I wish my car had been ready for this years Powercruise. I did finally get the engine installed today though! Lots more to do though

If your turbo is bush bearing as you say then you should not use an oil feed restrictor. If it is ball bearing then you need the restrictor.

From the above link:  Light vs. Heavy Pulleys – Heavy pulleys are just more parasitic inertia at the light end of the crank and make the damper’s job more difficult. They lower the frequency a bit but make the crank seem larger to the damper; i.e. a larger damper ring needed. I wonder what this means for me seeing as the Ross balancer I bought is heaver than the OEM balancer! My Ross balancer is under driven though, so two of the pullies are slightly larger than on the OEM unit.

hmmmm I bought one for my current build (new Neo version which seems to be made out of several different part numbers, and has the RB20 part number printed on the front of it) - now I'm kind of regretting it. Maybe I should have just bought a new OEM one. The most annoying part is that it's heaver than the OEM item! Not sure if this will provide more harmonics reduction or not though. Also what is the best way to hone out the inside of the balancer to fit it onto the crank? It says in the manual this is required to provide an interference fit. My (somewhat rough) measurements are showing that the the inside of the balancer is about 0.005" too small to fit onto the crank.

Thanks for the offer, but I already have a new Snow stage 3 kit ready to go in the car when I finish putting that together

hmmm I might look more into this. I was just about to order a Snow Performance SafeInjection kit for my WMI setup, but maybe this would be better.