Busky2k

E-flex is available at Caltex on O'connel st, North Adelaide. I grabbed a few L into my jerry can for some testing. Using this method I calculated it to be ~72% ethanol, or ~E72.. My crude test lines roughly up with Caltex's claims of being E70 atm. Tempted to test it in my car, but since my T518z is maxed out, I don't think I'll be netting a power increase of any more than 5%. Well, only one way to find out!

Spotted which looked like Martin Donnon driving a grey 35 in the backstreets of Walkerville yesterday. Funnily, the V6 engine sounded with the exhaust like a commodore

Anyone seen the front page of todays Sunday paper (and the 4 page spread)? Doesn't bode well for car enthusiasts thats for sure......... Some info here http://www.news.com.au/adelaidenow/story/0...5006301,00.html

You've missed the point. If these guys weren't dragging/speeding, noone would have been dead, even if there was an impact. Noone can blame the Toyota driver for the outcome here.

I can't believe this. As if the message wasn't loud and clear a couple of months ago. f**king dimwits! RIP. Noone deserves to die, but if people don't learn from it, its all in vain.

IMO Drag strips and street racing is 2 different things. Drag racing is organised, street racing is 'the heat of the moment' sort of thing. You spot a car you want to give a squirt against (or vice versa) - you're not gonna wind down your window and say "see you at the drags". Besides, street racing is more "fun" to most. Im not condoning street racing, but this is how it is. But +1 to a drag strip here. When I was in Sydney, having accessible circuits and drag strips was great to get it outta the system from time to time! Adelaide has f**k all!

I dont feel sorry for this guy. What does it take for people to learn their lesson? Street race and you run the risk of this or hurting others. And just reinforces the hoonish stereotypes of imports and all the BS we have to deal from cops and the general public.

Can't complain with my P. Mu HC+. Work well on the track, with excellent feel and consistancy and nice on the street with decent cold performance. They squeel a little on the last 20km/h to a stop but I think a bit of antisqueel gel stuff will fix that up. Only thing that sucks is the price with the JPY falling through the floor lately. I got mine for $230 a pair del?

I've got a pair of S14 rims, one with a good (60%) tyre and one with no tyre. Located in the Sutherland area.

Got anything else you want to sell?

RB21 + 3040 + 0.82 is gonna be a light bulb and that turbo combo way too big for 300-350rwhp. Have you bought it already? A 3071 0.63 would give you that power easily and be much more responsive and make a much faster car too.

Also depends on how low and how much camber you using, determines how much an offset will appear to 'fill' the guard.

I think a lot of people buy new heavier/less streetable clutches at the same time as getting a lightweight FW so it doesn't help the cause. I like lightweight FWs, I'd go them every time. Quicker rev matching and better low rpm/gear response is worth it IMO.

SOLD.

Nice response!! With some more boost and tuning, you should be getting very close to 300.

Darrens S14 drift car is an example. As for Alberts S15 making 280rwkw on 15psi with another. I'm not talkin the T2 flanged butcher special either. Theres no reason why a T3 flanged GT3071R cannot make that sort of power, altho it will be stretching its legs. A quick read thru a thread just below this turns up; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/30....html&st=20 290rwkw with a cropped version! Well then 300 should be no probs with an unmolested GT3071.

Disregard knock idle values. You should actually try and recalibrate the knock sensing if possible. What you are looking for is values well above 'idle' values (which is noise) when giving the car some stick.

GT3071 will reach 300rwkw. GT3582 will do it with a peakier powerband. If you're going stock internals I personally would say the GT3071.

Maybe hes referring to me lol. I spose to reiterrate, sidewall flex doesn't change over grip all that much unless we're talking extremes ie sidewall rollover, inappropriately narrow rim and wide tyre, crappy quality tyre etc. So in context with the OPs issue at hand it is what I'm saying.

Theres nothing too thick about the 10W40 really. Especially if the cars got a few miles on it! I'd still go the 5W40 though if possible.

Sidewall flex is feel related. It doesn't actually influence grip.

Ppl like this should be stopped. Its one thing to sell a copy but to advertise it as a real thing is just wrong.

Got a brand new overhaul kit for an OS Giken TS2BD clutch, a twin plate that fits many cars. It includes 2 new discs and 2 new plates + new clutch cover bolts. No clutch cover though. Reason for selling is because I bought the wrong overhaul kit. $500 inc postage. Also I have a worn OS Giken STR2CD twin plate clutch for sale. If you can pick up a overhaul kit for it, it makes for a cheap streetable twinplate for your car! $300 inc postage. More info here http://www.otomoto.com.au/osgiken/str_twin_plate.htm Pics on request. Located in Sydney. You can PM me or email me at [email protected] Thanks Leo

You could run it on olive oil and it'll prolly be fine for a few ks. Just grab the cheapest branded oil you can find.

The 100 octane at Shell is basically 98 + 5% ethanol to give it the rating. If you want, just mix it in yourself, generally speaking.