Busky2k

Nah stay with the 10W40. If it doesnt use any oil it doesnt warrant a thicker one!

Speaking of which, anyone know where I can get silicone intercooler hose piping? I want 3" stuff but everyone just sells couplings that are 3" x 3". I want a longer one, about 5" long instead. Sorry for the hijack.

^^ Try your local Mobil distributor. Retailers like petrol stations have their own markup.

Not necessarily. The AVCR does a good job when its setup right. Its a pain to perfect but just because a EBC is dual solenoid means nothing! I've had a few mates whose Blitz ID-III/iColor is causing them havoc too. I vote to see your AVCR settings which include the map, gear judge, learn gear and feedback values. By the wavy powercurve, your target boost setting and the duty cycle mapping is probably too far off and your feedback values are too high.

Oh...

^^ Wrong post Mr Cubes?

I smell a small group buy haha!

Depends on what you mean by "response". If you are taking about earliest turbo spool, probably the stock cams if you are using stockish sized turbos.

WogsRus, that is, providing you did it in 4th gear which is 1:1. Otherwise you have to divide by the gear ratio. Mind you my car "only" pulls 400nM on the dyno in 4th gear (245rwkw), which dividing by 3.69 gives you 108nM the flywheel which is like a 1.5L carby motor!! So yeah torque at the wheels on a dyno is not comparable to the engine torque.

Whatever it is, its FUGLY.

Don't clean your O2 sensor with carby cleaner or other solvents - you'll just be doing damage. They aren't cleanable, only replacable.

Hook up a multimeter to an O2 sensor and see how it behaves. On 3 different cars I've logged, bascially its running closed loop (ie using the O2 sensor feedback) even at full throttle at lower RPMs. On the cars Ive sussed, it only goes to open loop above 3500rpm _and_ full throttle. So even medium throttle its in closed loop, and idle too. So yeah but changing the O2 sensor on every car won't improve economy - its merely one part of many that can affect fuel economy.

Count me IN if I can make it.

Well basically the stock ECU will run 14.7:1 for everything but full throttle. So it is an issue when most of us are only full throttle less than 3% of the time we are driving. O2 sensors get lazy as they get old and yeah they are worth replacing for sure. Sometimes the O2 heaters burn out and thus it takes the sensor a while to warm up, wasting extra fuel from a cold start. Also I disagree that a fuel filter will help economy. If its clogged, you'll be running lean and the car'll run like crap.

You could probably leave it in for a bit longer Master. 7500km would still be a conservative interval with Redline as its a solidly formulated oil.

Yeah disconnect the battery before you leave. Running it flat seriously reduces the life of a battery thanks to sulfation. Retuning the stereo is a small inconvenience compared to forking out for a new battery. Besides this, nothing else you really need to do!

Almost 24 and have had 1 speeding fine in the last 5 years (2004)- and lost my licence because of it. Ah so gay. You don't think about these things when you have your foot down to the floor until afterwards!!

The difference between a 3" ceramic and metallic one might only be 5% peak power. Probably not much with a mildly modded car but would definitely become a potential restriction at big power levels ie >250rwkw.

The VT will get a better launch thanks to an auto but if its a decent drag strip where you can go for at least 400m or longer, the GT-T will own the VT as its a good 300kg lighter. Mind you 300rwkw VT Auto thats N/A is pretty hardcore.

I wish I could change from JCI but noone else wants to insure me at a reasonable rate cos my driving history isn't all that great, even though I've never made a claim or been in an accident. Ah damn speeding fines... I remember Shannons basically told me to get f**ked.

Well its actually 13psi at peak power. Interesting indeed. Although the intake temps on the shootout sheet are a bit high at 48C. No doubt the 0.82 housing with a GT35 turbine is very efficient too for the power level.

^^ Absolutely no problem if your car isnt a track warrior and is tuned well.

dangerman4 has a huge thread about his GT3540R. However he's got an auto and also internally wastegated.

The ECU grounds the solenoid to make it activate in the stated RPM ranges. Its activated also on the basis of coolant temp (ie warm motor) and whether the motor is in gear or not (active only in gear) for the SR20DET so I'd assume the same for the RB25DET.

I wouldn't mind knowing either as a new S14a leather gearknob from Nissan is $190!!