Busky2k

Theres only one way to find out...... Although if your cat back is a straight through system already, I don't think the gains would be very much at all.

lol this sounds lame but.. any small prizes? Like for the person who can guess the closest to what output they get? Like a free sasauge hotdog or some shit lol. Woohoo.

Hey I dont want to make a new topic but... Does anyone know if adjustable arms (Cusco Rear Upper Arms etc) are illegal/wont pass regency? Or are rose jointed stuff a no no?

For the price they are good street pad. I had a set and worked to my expectations. But they are not a track pad or anything. Only thing I hated about them was that they dusted to all hell. http://www.fastmagna.com/products/lucas/index.html

... or when they get defected.

LOL Madaz, you'll be there for years trying to dremel out a cast manifold.

Cubes, like anything, they are good up to a point. They are certianly good for response. Either way by getting an aftermarket one you are only gaining say, 5% power at the very best so value for money aint there and you have to deal with the tradeoffs (heat/not stock looking/worse response for equal lengths etc). Turbo Tits, if boost is falling away its more likely the compressor is running out of puff. The manifolds increase the engine's volumetric efficiency, rather than the turbo's capabilities. There might be some gains to be had on the midrange but who knows... Remember you can have the primaries as large as you like but the exhaust pulse still has to squeze thru the relatively squashed turbine housing. Sorta like a storm drain with a garden spray jet on the end.

Yeah I'm in the same sitation. The stock heat sheild hides a bigger turbo. Problem is, will the extra power (if any) be worth $650??

Mobil 1 doesn't come in 10W40. Only 0W40. Which is a good thing. I know what you should do, get your phone book out and ring around for prices but it'd be around $80-90 for a bottle. Can't tell you who would be cheapest. I haven't seen anything but the 5W50 at SuperShit and nor would I support those bastards anyway lol.

I dunno, for $160 I'd rather splurge a lil more and get some Jap Gauges. However it is handy that they do not require an external controller.

Ouch $650 is a fair investment. At that price I'd consider an aftermarket one instead... if it were a few hundred it'd be worth while.

Yeah 10ish would be a more appropriate time.

12pm is getting a bit late though Noz. Some people are putting their cars on the dyno....

Depends on the State you're in. And the officer/EPA bloke. Although I had no problems with mine when I got inspected.

Its pretty obvious what answer you'll get. 25GT ftw! BMW are boongas at that price, Type Rs are for women. EDIT - got the models mixed up lol

Deposit paid.

Yeah sounds OK. But its a crime to get up that early on a Saturday! lol Hmm... I reckon I might sleep in lol.

The way I see it is that if the IT is more than 10C higher than the AT, there is going be some good amount of correction involved. Infact that 'bogus' sheet shown before with similar AT/IT, thats the figures that would involve the least amount of SAE correction and thus a more 'real' result IMO. Anyone can get the temp sensor, throw it near the turbo manifold and get some bullshit results.

Got Hankook K104s a while ago in that size for $250ea. Good for the money.

If you are talking about nitrous for the track, then go ahead, but for the street, please don't...

Yes it is IMO. The solution is obvious. You need to go thinner, not thicker. What have you got to loose? Castrol 5W30 is about $50 a bottle. Cheaper than the Mobil 1 5W50... Infact I'd be willing to bet 10 points that the 5W30 will quiet down your motor...

The oil is thick on startup, and thats why your lifters are noisy. The thinner it is, the less noise it'll make. You can use any synthetic in any car but the cost effectiveness is another issue. If it leaks already, there is a chance synthetics may make it worse. Also any xW30 is perfectly fine for your R33. The factory oil was that weight anyway. I use a 5W30 with confidence. If you are judging your oil pressure by a stock gauge, its basically meaningless anyway.

Yeah I'd try a thinner oil. However going a 5W50 would be a backwards step as it would probably be thicker at startup than a 10W40 anyway (the W only refers to the viscosity of the oil at temps well below freezing). I'd try a 5W/10W30 a go. Castrol EDGE 5W30 or Mobil 1 10W30 would be worth a shot.

At least with shootout mode we can see the IT temp of 55 would involve some serious correction. When its not shootout, then you begin to wonder about those magical sheets...

I'm liking the sound of this