Busky2k

Yeah you shouldnt really have a problem using a gap of 0.9mm, but I would probably still use 0.8mm to reduce the strain on the coil packs! Be careful gapping platinum/iridium plugs however!!!

That dood running 13.49 w/o a FMIC is possible easily. I pulled 13.41 with the stock intercooler, with the crap 60ft to boot. However I was pushing it to the edge and I have a FMIC now...

Great choice there!! Maybe you should join us at nissansilvia.com too

I believe you should be able to get away with the stock injectors unless your trying to milk your engine for what its worth. Maybe try the Malpassi, set the base pressure a bit higher to say, 50psi. Altho I cant confirm it, also its rising rate ratio is 1.7:1, so for every pound of boost, it raises the fuel pressure by 1.7psi. You just gotta make sure you get the PFC retuned, and all should be good!

EnricoPalazzo, what did you order? And what did you tell them the price was? I was planning to get a set of HKS cams from there, but if i end up paying 20% duty, I might aswell just grab them here...

Just wondering, but why do you want a regulator? The stock one would defintely be up to the job.

Yeah thats right Cecam. I cant see why running it permanantly retarded will actually gain power at all.

JimX, VMX 80 should be fine as thats what Castrol recommend for our Nissan boxes. However I reckon its a bit thin being a 75W-80, but I think it should be ok. I would recommend spending a little extra and getting Castrol Syntrans 75W-85 since its synthetic and a bit thicker! Otherwise Motul Gear300 75W-90 or Redline MT90 would do the trick!

Excellent curve plot there Freebaggin. It clearly illustrates that a rwkw figure isnt the be all end all number on which car is the fastest. IMO, the fastest car will be whatsisname's (providing he shifts ~1000rpm than the other 2 cars), even tho Greepin's car has a higher rwkw figure. Either way, all 3 cars have very nice power! Dammit, i want a RB25DET now!!!

JimX, I didnt think i'd find it because i read it like 6 months ago, so I didnt even bother to google it! hahaha But yeah, I would only use shockproof if the gearbox is already shagged. If its fine, then I would use something else like maybe their MT90/MTL range. Additionally I would recommend Castrol Syntrans for the box and/or Motul Gear300 for the diff/box.

JimX, altho I cannot find the webpage anymore, I read an oil analysis comparison of Mobil 1 and Redline Shookproof in an S2000 gearbox. The Redline had a zillion times more wear metal in it compared to the Mobil 1 for the same length oil change intervals...

Your better off using their MT90/MTL gearbox oils, as they are more for street cars, than racing gearboxes!

Wow I just love the midrange grunt of your engine. It has more power at the wheels at like 3200rpm than mine does at peak power (6000rpm)! It should haullll ass...

If you want the best, use Motul 300V if you have deep pockets But yeah, Motul is definitely up there with the best. Btw, jet black oil doesnt mean its shagged, especially with a full synthetic like Mobil 1. Usually just contaminated from blowby and internal engine cleaning.

Sydneykid, some of the heat (kinetic energy) is used to actually spin the turbine, not lost to the environment. High pressure/temp into the turbine, low pressure/temp out of the turbine. That is quite simply, how it all works. Go here for a quick read about it; http://sr20det.nismo.org/basicsofturbos.htm Quite interesting actually. And yes, 300C is very real. And so while you might have 700C post turbo, it might actually be 1000C at the exhaust valve, and thats risky! But the main problem is that you dont really know the temperature, as each turbo will subtract a different amount. I have a webstage with real life figures if you still dont believe me. Heheh

Yeah but LPH really means nothing unless you know the pressure too. A crappy pump could flow 200 LPH at zero resistance, and 20 at 60psi. The best way to check is just to see how much fuel return your getting at WOT. Or, hook up a fuel pressure gauge, and make sure it stays consistant, and doesnt drop as the revs go higher.

Yeah their work is pretty shithouse. ON my old car, i had a panel replaced, and the colour wasnt anywhere near the body work. It was like they were drunk when they did the colour matching. Faggots. And to top it off, they put a fat "JV CRASH" sticker on the side of the door, which is impossible to remove. ****wits.

I have an easier way to paint the caliper. Just spray some of the can into a lid or small container and use a paintbrush to transfer it onto the caliper. Much easier than masking up everything, and als you can use a small hobby brush to go around the NISSAN letters.

You dont want to run too much methanol because it'll screw with the AFRs. Also straight methanol is corrosive to aluminium and most pumps are not compatible with it!

Nice power there man. I gotta see this beast in action one day

Your best off putting the sensor in the turbo manifold. Putting it after the turbo is not a true indicator of EGTs, since the turbo actually consumes a continuously variable amount of heat from the engine. EG after turbo it might be 600C and in the manifold, it might be 900C.

Why buy an aftermarket actuator?? All you have to do is install a coupla washers onto the mounting points of the stock actuator and this automatically puts more pressure onto the wastegate flap! I put 2 washers on each, and this raised the boost by 3psi from stock! Good value for 20c compared to a few hundred $$$. Less spiking from the bleeder too, since it now had to bleed substatially less boost to get the same result.

predator, I dont think ppl wanna forgo AC. And besides, you loose almost no power to the compressor anyway when its not operating! And the fan is viscous coupling, so you'd only loose coupla hp you wouldnt feel at best (unless its fully locked due to being fooked or ur engine is running hot) Also ~80% of the gain from a pulley is actually removing the weight from it, and the rest is from underdriving the accessories!

Nope it definitely doesnt loose its settings

Yeah, but they probably pulled a good time like that with rev limiter clutch dumps... The TS will tell the story on which car really has the best power!