Busky2k

Yeah thats very true. The tach is about 5% too high compared to the reading on the SAFC.

SLY33, this is from my own measurments, plumbing the boost gauge before the intercooler and then after, at 14psi, not stock boost (enough air to flow 170rwkw). Its one thing to read a mag, and another to actually measure it yourself! Thats why i did it.. The article in zoom magazine was talking about a HKS GT-RS or something similar from memory, which would flow heaps more than stock, and yes the pressure drop will be alot more. However with a stock turbo, it wouldnt nearly be as much, but I have to take into account I have an SR20 where as you boys have an RB25. Im just sayin the stock cooler isnt as restrictive as everyone makes out to be for light mods, but thermodynamically, even for stock its a piece of shit....

SLY33, the pressure drop isnt that much. I did a measurment at and the drop was 1psi during the midrange to 1.5psi at the top end. I dont think a 600x270x70 tube and fin core will do alot better... Bar & plate will tho.

How hard are the RB74s on the discs? I was thinking of going Ferodo DS2500, as I've NEVER heard anything but awesome stuff about them, on almost every forum. Altho they are beggining to get a bit pricey.

Excellent service. They have an aussie bank account too which makes things a shitload easier. Get stuff now while the Yen is so high!

I read in HPI that the gearstick rubber boot is prone to splitting after sometime. The RB30 gearbox boot is exactly the same. can be bought at repco for $20.

The Apexi SAFC shows the total AFM flow in terms of %, 100 being maxed out. On my SR20, at peak power its at about 70%. I never bothered checking the actual voltage tho. I should..

RB20LagWagon, the S14 is definitely not 4.1 dood. The auspec workshop manual clearly states its 3.692 to be precise! Perhaps the JSpec ones are 4.1?! Jay95R33, what are the ratios of your gearbox? I'll state what the S14 one is; 1st- 3.32 (~65kmh) 2nd- 1.90 (~113 kmh) 3rd- 1.31 (~ 163 kmh, everyone ive dragged always shift into 4th way before I do) 4th- 1.00 (no idea, never gone that far, but it hits the limiter on the dyno) A skyline diff would do wonders on the strip in this car I reckon.... Btw, Im suprised a reset worked aswell, but I also reset the timing at the same time, as it was like 5 deg overadvanced. I think that was what really fixed it. Btw, I believe you have to disconnect the TPS during idle to get the true base timing.

Nah, aus spec cars defintely have a diff ration of 3.7. Jap specs maybe closer to 4 (like 3.9). Its definitely right tho, as about ~40-50m before I cross the line on the strip, I shift into 4th.

You know, that giant flat spot looked exactly the same on my SR20DET. Im pretty sure it was because the ECU was pulling timing at that particular point. After a ECU reset and resetting the timing, it never came back again... Also that extra power came mostly from the leaner AFRs I believe. Oh btw, you Skyline guys must have quite a shorter diff and 4th gear. On the rollers, my car goes pretty close to 165kmh in 3rd gear!!!!!!!!!!! Hmm If i put a skyline diff in my car... *GRIN*

I totally agree with whatsisname. I am expericencing the same problems with my stock ECU as its starting to show its limits. At a dyno day, the graph was climbing rapidly, then it nosedived by about 30kw, then rocketed back up to close to 170rwkw. There was no doubt the ECU was pulling timing badly. On the road, it was like I was backing off, then flooring it again. After that, the curve was smooth again, with 1 deg less on the base timing. I am thinking of doing the knock sensor mod so the ECU doesnt panic all the time..

IMO the AFRs are quite stable, especially at the top end, where it really matters. Down low it'll me more wiggly because most ECUs try to run closed loop still....

Yeah definitely #4. Bah I still need to learn..... If i could even pull off a 2.1x 60ft i'd be damn happy!! What rear tyre pressures were u using Nightcrawler? After I went home I realised i was still on 35psi....

Give them a call i guess. I remember a few days ago i was reading about a H22A honda using a pulley, and after 40,000ks, a teardown was performed. It was found that the main bearing #1 was completely hammered compared to main bearing #5. I'll try and dig it up. Also alot of WRXs seem to have trouble with pulleys, as it causes the CAS to go whacked at 6000rpm. Sounds like nasty vibrations are responsible, and this is on a short crank EJ20.. Tonnes more info on NASIOC.

Nice work there dean! Your car should be absolutely hammering now!! The power looks alot smoother too!! I gotta give you another run. Ive done a few more mods too

Hmmm funny. I gave GFB a call about their crank pulleys and belt sizes the other day concerning my SR20. Anyways, after that I asked them why they dont make pulleys for the RB. They plainly stated that it ruins the bearings and that they 'learned the hard way'. Food for thought...

Hey man Ive got a quick question about EBCs in general. I run a GFB bleeder and while it works quite well, I do have problems with massive spiking while on/off the throttle. Eg running hard through the hills on a cold night, I'll go from decel to WOT and the thing will spike all the way to 16-17psi very breifly before falling back to 13psi. And you can hear the poor engine detonate for a split second. I guess its because the turbo spools up so quickly the bleeder isnt 'quick enough' to bleed off all the boost. Do EBCs stop this? Or will they too overshoot too when the throttle is slammed at high RPM? Thanks for the review btw. Apparently blitz's Dual Solenoids are some of the best in the business....

Hey I just realised, doesnt the skyline have a variable voltage fuel pump? So at idle, the pump wont be running at full bore, so that Warpspeed technique wouldnt be accurate would it? I know for a fact my 200SX doesnt, but yeah...

Warpspeed, thats a good way to get a rough idea!!! The best way is to just see how much fuel return there is on the dyno, at full boost at peak power.... but that costs money haha

I totally agree with Sydneykid. The SR/RB heads still have alot of potential with them. After all, they were designed with stock power levels in mind. Even just a quick polish/degag/match port, there is definitely some gains to be had with a small amount of effort!

Its best to put it into the exhaust manifold, not the dump pipe. The turbo takes away an continuously variable amount of heat from so its not exactly reliable. It can subtract anywhere from 100-400C.

Great to hear that your car didnt score any damage, and that you've found it quick Count your lucky stars!

You can use the inlet plenum vacuum hose to get a pressure reading. Nothing wrong with that. The good thing is that the boost will be more consistant because the turbo will help compensate the pressure loss through the intercooler and throttle body. Otherwise tap it after the intercooler. I dont recommend doing it before the intercooler really...

Damn man. As soon as you hear a Trust T88 for sale ANYWHERE, go to that place with a metal baseball bat. Sorry to hear, ****ing theives. They should all be nailed to a tree, whipped with barbed wire and picked to death by vultures.

Pretty interesting. What would have been nice was to see if you could have got an actual backpressure reading before/after!