Busky2k

So he can chirp not only 3rd but reverse too...

LOL How the hell do you know! Yeah I have recently churned to SOHO Extreme (ADSL2+ pending) at work! At home I have the Extreme Home plan. Gotta ditch my iiNet at my other house. iiNet are now ridiculously expensive if you aren't on their ADSL2 network. Had 3 accounts with them and only 1 left to churn to 'node.

I'd rather be sharing with noobs and grandpas. You know why? Because less people would be Torrenting/Dling, which chews up bandwidth hardcore!

Interesting. For me the hotter the diff got, the more it clunked. On a hot day it was a nightmare. When the diff is cold it was silent.

What turbo are you using Joel? The GT30R or GT35R?

Nah guilt toy as far as I'm aware Garrett have never included the rear housing A/R as part of the name.

-Yes more force is required by the clutch pack to engage. Thus you need more of a speed differential between each driveshaft before it locks up. Ie on KAAZ oil you only had to turn the steering wheel 90 degrees before it'd clunk to all buggery (ie "tight"). Now I have to do a U-Turn before it does ("loose"). -Im no expert so I can't say but anyone feel free to fill me in. Personally I would guess it wouldn't affect the life of the clutches to a great extent if you don't overuse the additive. Obviously a better solution would have been to adjust the preload of the diff in the first place but I can't see how that would be any different to making the oil more slippery - the clutch slips in either situation. When it was stock, the clunking/grinding is the clutches enganging and disengaging - how could that be any good for the clutches anyway? Its probably worse!

midnight - yep LSX 90 would work fine. I would change it more often though (maybe every 20,000km) being a mineral oil. Castrol EPX/Multitrax etc are not suited for clutch LSD use. PHATR32 - yep the Redline LSD Friction Modifier should work in your 2 way diff no problem. Oh btw this is the best way to get the stuff into your diff is to buy this from your local pharmacy (syringe barrel with no needle), then buying 30cm worth of PVC tubing from the hardware store and attaching that to the end of it. Be sure to clean the area around the filler bolt before you take it off. Don't want dirt to go into your diff.

You know how it is - you sell the car and the day after you begin thinking about getting another.

Well I've had a KAAZ 1.5 now for quite a while and just got sick of all the clunking. Drives me insane. So I experimented with oils. The clutch packs in clutch LSDs such as the KAAZ rely on the oils co-efficent of friction ie 'slipperyness' to lock up the differential. The stock viscous LSDs do not rely on the diff's oil (they have their own which is a sealed unit) and thus any changes to the diff oil will have no effect. My findings; -Genuine KAAZ Oil - Very clunky. Chatters even at 60kmh. Hair pulling noise and the car would tend to 'surge' or 'pulse' during low speed cornering under power. -Castrol LSX - Used as a flush. Less clunky than the KAAZ oil. -Redline 75W90 - About the same as the Castrol LSX, maybe a hair bit better. -Redline 75W90 + 30ml of Redline LSD Friction Modifier - Big reduction in clunking. Slight on slow speeds. Smooth. -Redline 75W90 + 45ml of Redline LSD Friction Modifier - Clunking almost completely gone. Only present on U-Turns. Very smooth. Redline's LSD Friction Modifier makes the diff oil more 'slippery' which makes it harder for the LSD to engage the clutch packs to lock both driveshafts together. For those who don't want to change their oil you can add the LSD Friction Modifier to your existing oil. The LSD Friction Modifier is about $22. I would add it to your diff in 15ml increments until you are satisfied. You need to drive the car for a few km for the additive to mix in well. Don't add too much or your LSD lockup may get "too weak" - then you need to drain your oil and start again. I personally prefered it when I added 30ml as I liked to hear the diff working on low speeds still. 45ml it was a bit too 'quiet'. Also to note, this is why it is important to use an oil that is rated for "LSD" use in the diff for clutch type LSDs. If you add a normal GL5 gear oil such as the Redline 75W90 NS or Castrol Syntrax or Motul Gear 300, they are not appropriately friction modified for clutch LSD operation and the diff will clunk to all buggery as they are not 'slippery' enough. Of course, this is not of any concern to those with the stock Viscous LSD.

Guess you forgot about the good ol dog box!

I would refrain from using a 75W/140 or 80W/140 in a gearbox because the extra thickness can make shifting harder. Also I take Redline's advice and suggest that Shockproof shouldn't be used in a gearbox unless its the last resort..

Speaking of alignments, is it necessary to load the car whilst on the machine? I always thought by having someone sit in the drivers seat, it would be more accurate..

Thats right, but the question begs, who is right and who is wrong!

If you have a 10W40 synthetic and a 10W40 mineral, they are the same thickness. Anyone who tells you synthetics are too thin should be slapped.

Any chance on spotting a GT37 52 trim compressor map? Wonder how much flow it has.. the 56 trim GT37 chokes at 53 lb/min so the 52 trim GT37 might be roughly 48-50lb/min, which would be roughly a hair more than the 56 trim GT35 compressor?

I've found that if you take the same car to 3 different alignment places, they all read differently even though the car hasn't been touched. For example 1 workshop read +0.5 camber on my FR yet another workshop read -0.6 camber on the same rim on the same day..... Makes me kinda wonder sometimes...

Nice find Trex101. That guy has some seriously good prices!!

Tomorrow night is looking good for a nice drive... Might see you guys on the streets. Edit - I mean tonight ie Saturday.

I got my sisters Mazda 3 here a few days ago from Sydney with door-door service for $500...

Would head out tonight but its damp so nah...

Nice work. PS Love that cable tie!

AEHass is a very well known guy on BITOG. However the paper does not consider the effects of lower viscosity oils on the valve train. He is correct though and explains why 10W60s such as Castrol EDGE are not optimal for most street driven Skyrines.

Same dyno yeah?

Apexi AVCR. Used to be a hater but now I'm a believer. Takes a while to set up but once its tweaked to perfection I would say its one of the best. Certainly never spikes and it has very good closed loop feedback from watching the solenoid duty vs boost whilst on full throttle. HEAPS of functions for the tweakers out there like myself. Don't be conned into thinking its 'only' a 'single solenoid' - a solenoid is only as good as the brains controlling it. HKS used a stepper motor and still do. Cons? Its too bloody big and Apexi should have released a new version by now.