Busky2k

Yup the article covers the good basics of synthetics. You have to keep in mind that; -This article is pretty damn old. API SF was around more than 15 years ago. -Petroleum oils are pretty good these days, unlike 10 years ago and can rival cheap API Group III synthetics.

You can actually hook up a 1M ohm resistor into the harness and it'll fool the ECU into thinking its working. That should buy you some time before you can find another KS to put in. Also if your ECU detects a bad KS, then it retards the timing alot, resulting in lost power etc...

MJ, Stall it up at the lights, just before it goes green (dont be a fool and hold it for 10 seconds! LOL) Now got boost and revs... and you'll launch just as good as a manual! And even better than a manual in some cases... Btw maybe you should put it on a dyno to check out whats going on!

It gets pretty tight in there. You have to cut the AFM wire. The rest you can just 'tap' by exposing the copper by splicing the PVC jacket. Make sure you have a good connection. Last time I did a half ass job and found myself stranded in the middle of nowhere hahaha Keep note about the double ground you have to do make on the ground wire of the ECU. It is important. Im pretty sure the ECUs for auto and manual cars are identical aswell. My SAFC is in the glovebox. Dont want theives spotting it.

Really? Damn you're probably right. Ah well...

Yeah Its perfectly calibrated. Get knock readings at idle, but not at cruising when the temps are up. Makes no sense. I can even disconnect the knock sensor harness and i still get these wierd readings? LOL Maybe I should give AAE a call, as I did buy my SAFC II new from hikari performance.

Haha yeah thats is true, but the SAFC is reporting 30 counts of knock during IDLE. Not at full boost or anything during hot weather! Strange... but as I said before, 20-30 counts over the idle count, and then i'd count it as knock! Funny adobe requires the japanese language pack when there is not a shred of japanese in the PDF!

Yeah its really weird. On hot days, the knock count can go right up to 30, idling on my SR20DET. In winter its never moves from 0. I have no idea why heat would cause these readings. Always the best way to tell if your car is pinging is to do a peak recall after a hard run. If the knock counts are 20-30 over the idle count, then you have pinging. 100+, then I'd say its getting to worrying levels. However the ECU might have sensed knock and pulled the timing, so the high knock reading may have only occured for a split second or so. Btw thanks for info on the SAFC II manual, its about time Apexi bloody put one up...

Pretty nasty eh! Its a bit sad its turned into a cat fight between MRT and owners. They should settle it outside the forums.

I'll give a P plater in a turbo car a sensible run But if its your typical bogan in a spring chopped VN then I'll just wind the window up!

30wts are a lil thin for our damn hot summers. 40wt is pretty ideal for the amount of ks we have on our cars coupled with the hot heat. 50wts should only really be used in oil burning engines or if you do alot of track work. Our jap engines run very tight clearnances compared to aussie/usa cars so a 50wt is not really ideal IMO. Dont worry JimX, 5W40 you got is pefectly good!

SeriesIIGTST, did you hear the car pinging?? It looks like it musta been pinging to all hell to break a ring land...

I did the mod and my BOV sounds pretty different. Not a long pssshhh anymore. More of a quick sshtt and thats about it. Doesnt sound as nice. But it does certianly hold booster better. I'll be leaving it modded!

Why does #1 blow first again? Is it cos it flows the best? Or injector flows the least on that position on the rail?

Try AAA Exhaust. They have a mandrel bending machine. They sell the mandrel bends to Exhaust Technology and D&T Performance etc...

The relief vavle is located near the oil pump. NOt sure exactly in the RB (I do in teh SR). I dont think changing oils will help. Maybe you've got a munged oil filter. Change that first... and dont put the revs too high so u dont strain the pump and stuff.

It'd be good, but I think theres a bit more to dyno tuning then just going WOT. And can you even hire dynos for private use? I didnt think so. The closest you'd get is to book a 3 hr session with an operator and do what u want with a few cars..

What is wrong with coppers? I can run bigger gaps with my V-Power coppers compared to my Platinums and I doubt the Iridiums could do any better. Thats testiment on saying how much iridiums are better than coppers....

Get an SAFC without hesitation. I got 20rwkw from my one. A supra FMIC (if you wanna call it that) isnt that much better than stock. Just save your dosh and get a proper FMIC later.

You shouldnt need an oil primer in most cases. You're pretty much wasting your time. Get a quality oil filter with a good anti-drainback valve and some 5W or 0W rated oil and you've got all the cold start protection you need. If anything, a slow crank will not sufficiently oil up the system over a few seconds. It might take 10-20 seconds before its fully primed at cranking speed. And your bearings are still 1/2 dry during this period. You might aswell just start it and the oil pressure will be up in no time... Just take it easy when the engine is cold. That is the key...

Nope. Another wrong idea. The reason we use pressure caps is to hold the coolant at a particular pressure. A pressurised system will have a higher boiling point, say 5C higher at 1 bar (Im not sure of the exact figures). The cap will not allow the pressure to exceed its rating by bleeding off the exess into the overflow bottle so it doesnt cause damage to the pipes/radiator etc. However its not necessary to increase the stock cap pressure unless your coolant constantly hits >95-100C and you need that extra anti boil protection. In most cases, you've probably got a stuffed radiator or a malfunctioning thermostat in order to warrant a higher pressure cap. Unless of course, youve got a T88 hanging off the side of a 2JZ and do circut racing or something...

May I ask what you were doing when you came across this product on the net? LOL

Ive had 7 heat range plugs in my car for the last 2000ks.. Havent even gotten close to fouling yet, but then again, there is never a drive that doesnt include a healthy dose of WOT...

The ECU runs closed loop all the time, except for when you got your foot flat to the floor above ~3000rpm. Its constantly recorrecting its sensor parameters to stay at stoich AFR so by trying to fool it with the SAFC inside of closed loop operation is futile. You shouldnt need an aftermarket comp to fix these problems. Its most likely a vacuum leak, very dirty throttle body, clogged PVC, leaky pipes, malfunctioning EGR/Canister control, plugs etc etc. The list could go on. I suggest you get ur hands on a workshop manual and try and diagnose a few things...

Yeah those platinums are probably too cold for your application. I suggest you just get some cheap coppers now to try sort things out. Try and get a hold of the NGK BCPR6ES/BCPR7ES or the BKR6E/BKR7E, with the BKRs as first preference. If you have got many mods, get the 7 heat range plugs, or stick with the 6 if you havent modified your car very much. Also, plugs dont cause pinging unless they overheat in the combustion chamber, and 8 range plug will not even get close to doing that..