Busky2k

Yeah its sprayed into the inlet plenum of the engine and left to soak for a while. The engine is run to burn off all the crap and the rest of the can is slowly administered thru a vacuum port to clean up any residues....

You must use Auto Trans fluid on your gearbox. Not a gear oil. Just get a coupla Castrol Dexron III ATF bottles and use that! Make sure to flush it a few times as you only get about 1/3rd of the fluid out everytime you drain it. For the diff, any GL5 rated oil would be fine. 75W-90 is ideal.

SAFC is not going to help your fuel economy besides if your car is running real rich at full throttle. And even then its still gonna drink heaps. Get your car checked out first...

At the Club PSi Dyno Day on the 5th Oct, I saw him pull 360rwkw. I dont know if he was giving the motor its hardest (ie max boost or a bit lower).... Btw RPM uses a Dyno Dynamics Dyno...

NHK's BCPR6ES or the (more recommended by NGK) BKR6E Having no number at the end of the model number denotes a 0.8mm factory gap.

Im pretty sure most Autobarn places sell them. Well all of them do in Adelaide anyway. Give their 300V line a shot. Definitely one of the OTC oils on the market... Motuls 8100 is on par with Mobil 1 Supersyn IMO. Oh and btw, only the 8100/300V contain esters. The 6100 has PAO like Mobil 1 and anything lower like the 4100 Turbolight are semi synths... And yup, esters smell wicked

I spoke to NGK. They say for Skylines and 200SX's, the better copper plug to use over the BCPR6ES is the BKR6E(Y)s... I have a set of BKR7Es in my car and I can run wider gaps with them compared to my 10k old platinums....

All castrols arent even true synthetics. They are API Grp 3 oils, which are synthesised from crude oil basestocks. Mobil and Motul for example use PAOs or Esters (Grp 4&5 respectively) which are true synthetics. Grp 3s are still good but are cheaper to synthesize, and arent as good as PAOs and esters. The only thing crap about Castrol is that they market their oil at or even more expensive than PAOs which is just stupid... Mobil took Castrol to court over this, cos Castrol claimed their oils were synthetic, when Grp3s technically are not... Moreover, Shell Helix Ultra is a Grp3 oil but its marketed at an appropriate price of 45bux a bottle. 80 bux a bottle for the same thing of Castrol, what a rip....

It could be a multitude of things. Best bet is to see a mechanic if you dont see anything obvious.

Nah not 60wt. Thats way too thick for anything but a smoking car or a wide clearanced car that gets thrashed at a track. A XX-40 oil is what I personally recommend. 30wts are only recommended by Nissan cos it is colder in Japan and also of the minute fuel economy benefits provided by it. We all drive our cars hard, plus the other points I mentioned, so a 40wt oil is more appropriate, especially when oil temps are on the rise.

The W rating refers to sub zero temperatures, but it depends on the exact rating for the temp. But your looking at about -20 to -30C which makes pretty much SFA difference in our country. The hot rating is far more important. I recommend 40wts due to the ks on most jap imports and teh hotter weather we experience here. 30wts IMO are a bit on the thin side.

Get an NGK BKR7E. Gap it to about 0.8mm

I have the GFB Atomic. Its pretty good; very little spiking. I recommend it. However boost tapers off about 1 psi up at the top end (past 6krm). But i think thats a charateristic of most bleeders and only a EBC can fix.. Btw Im running the stock cooler so that could be the problem...

I reckon a IC spray would be useful to help it loose heat quicker. For example when Im crusing with the team and giving it a good old squirt here and there, i want the IC to cool down as quick as possible between WOT squirts. Once intercoolers are heat soaked (and it doesnt take long on a stock one), it does take a coupla minutes for them to cool down again. And on cruises, im nailing it like every 30 secs haha. So i think in these situations a IC sprayer would be useful, but not in a situtation where youre trying to reduce intake temps while on boost with it on...

Nothing wrong with using 0W oils in any car. If anything, cold performance will be better in all cases! You want the oil as thin as possible when it is cold.

lol VMX is not reasonbly thick. Its damn thin. 75W-80 is about the thinnest gear oil you'll find! Maybe the VMX 80 isnt too good in ur box and u need something with better protection. Try Castrol Syntrans (synthetic).

I dont think wrapping a dump is as detrimental as wrapping headers. Ive had mine wrapped for the last 6 months and they look perfect when I unwrapped em a week ago. No discolouring or anything. Headers run alot hotter than dump pipes and they are the ones that will suffer more heat fatigue than a dump pipe. Usually a dump pipe runs anywhere from 200-400C cooler than the exhaust manifold, which I definitely dont recommend heat wrapping!! On the contrary, if your on a track day I would remove it, as the dump would get very hot for a long period of time! A quick boost here and there isnt enough to do any damage IMO.

Check for a leaky or worn hose to the wastegate actuator! Or it could be on the off chance your actuator is rooted (doubt it tho)

Another bad thing about letting a car warm up idling for too long is that the engine is running rich and thus you get more bore wash.. and hence more wear in the bore and piston rings. Also you want the operating temp to be reached as quickly as possible (in a gentle manner) to get any condensation outta the oil and CC, which produces acids which attack metal. An engine takes 3x as long to warm up to operating temp idling than it does gently driven. FWIW I let my car idle for 30 sec and then drive off....

You'd have to get the other injectors to lean out slightly to compensate for the extra fuel you're putting in. Its probably easiest just to put 10% in your tank whenever ur gonna give the car some business like on cruises.

Haha I remember one of my pals giving an MX6 turbo a caining in his moms U13 bluebird. The MX6 guy was pretty pissed. Even the KA24DE dishes out the punishment to em! Hahahah

Lucas is just an oil thickener really. I didnt think it'd do much for shifting. Also lucas causes real bad foaming from some tests i've seen, so I personally wouldnt recommend it.. But hey if it works for you..

Yeah, its the Mobil Super Syn formula. About time it came out. Its been in the US for over 1 1/2 years.... And RP is a bit overhyped IMO. It doesnt show anything special in UOAs (Used Oil Analysis) in various cars compared to other Synths out there.. But if it floats your boat.. hehe

Amsoil is just hyped up. I'd say its hardly any better than Mobil 1 for twice teh price. The graphs are usually bogus anyway.. and have no relavance to lubrication in a motor.

Go to http://www.gearbox-racing.com/ for their pricelists. They swear by Redline. If you have any questions, just give them a call. They dont have EFTPOS so keep that in mind...