Busky2k

Nice results indeed but its my belief that the GT3037 underperforming because it needed to be; - externally gated - use a bigger 0.87 housing - and run the boost that the GT3040 had. It would have broken the 300rwkw barrier easily! But nevermind, I think you've done well either way! 340rwkw must be animal as.

Hey wheres my PM!

Merry Xmas!! I'm at work today. Damn.

I've got a dinner to attend but I'd be keen for a drive afterwards...

Edit - Found the answer...

I would personally advise against implementing toe out on the front for anything but track work. For my S14 with ZEAL coilovers I use; F: -1 camber, 0 total toe R: -0.5 camber, 1mm total toe Works good for me. My height settings atm are 345mm (F) and 335 mm ®.

I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to swap the wastegate housing for a GT30 rear housing at all...

Rained something chronic out here in the country. Went for a bit of a 'spin' in the wet. Ah gotta love those wide and uninhabited country roads...

That doesn't tell you much though! Best way to judge fuel economy is to sit at speed in various gears and note the injector duty cycle! Btw I experienced notably better highway fuel economy when leaned to ~15.5:1 AFRs by switching off O2 feedback and adjusting the IGN/INJ trim.. I'd only advise it if you have a wideband though....

Nothing wrong with a tippy when you have good power. Good for launches and driven right, can be an enjoyable drive.

Theoretically ethanol blends such as Boost 98 (10%) have less energy content per litre than a typical 98 RON fuel. A 10% blend has an impact on fuel economy from around 1-5%, with 3% being the average and the loss can be minimised with advancing the ignition timing but you won't get it all back. So I'm surprised you gain so much. You sure your last tank didn't involve some freeway driving?

275mm is bogus. An 18" rim and the tyre sidewall is more than that!

I gave my car some stick a couple of days ago and straight after it became really hard to put into either 1st or 2nd gear (ie the 2 gears on that 'plane'). You almost have to ram it in and its just as hard to pull it out of the gear too. Its easier when the car is moving and difficult on a stop. Every other gear is perfectly normal including reverse so it wouldn't be the clutch. And I don't think it would be the synchros. I'm thinking I've damaged a selector fork. Does this sound about right?

Hey disco could you explain to us how compressor housings and the A/R affects compressor flow/lag and performance? Eg the 0.50A/R vs the 0.60 A/R for the GT37 compressors.

Don't use "red" OAT type coolants in an older car which never came with it factory fill in the first place. Green coolants that would work well are the Nissan OEM, Nulon Long Life, Castrol Radicool or Tectaloy 90 Plus and you cant go wrong. Btw that Purple Ice/Water Wetter stuff works optimally with straight water and its effects are very much diminished when mixed with glycol coolants.

Thanks for the claification Jazza. Infact anyone with an AVCR, it reads in kg/cm2 which is less again at 14.2psi. So I was running less boost than I thought!

I would be very interested in the 52 trim GT37 compressor, mainly because I have an SR20. I'd love to see a compressor map, but it'll be ages before we get to see anything. Granted, I would have thought the 56 trim would still be quite good for the RB25.

Some say its 14.5, others say 14.7. Who bloody knows. I still round it off to 15 though haha

0.5 = 7psi 1.0 = 15 psi (technically its 14.7 but for the sake of easiness)

Well theres heaps to do in SA: Heres a list! OK Maybe I lied.

Hmm I'd be keen for a run Sunday night or perhaps Mon/Tues.

Well Nissan in their workshop manual specifies every 40,000km or 24 months. Changing it every under 10,000km every time would be a waste really.

5-10,000km is overkill. They are easily good for 30,000-40,000ks.

I guess the keyword here is "adjustable"!

Won't get much leeching action with that one though! Haha...