dangtstr32

nice installs, like the v12 installs mostly cos im an alpine fan, and i like the way u mounted the sub box into the tire well, cos i did it to my car. even though i didnt use sound deadener and fibreglass it turned out alright it rattles alot though, all i did was made an mdf three sided box to shape into the tire well and siliconed it into place and put a hole in the top. i had to reverse my sub for it to fit but i like it because it makes a cage around the moving cone so it can get damaged and without a big box in there makes a big difference to the looks of it. Great stuff

Hi mate ive experienced in an r33 that the ground cable has made a difference to engine noise going through the speakers, we fixed this by moving the ground cable away from the relay box and cable tied it in near the roof part of the boot, worth a try good luck.

Thx man, saving for a dyno tune now just to be sure to get it done properly, ill give em a call when i saved up enough cheers

NICE

Sorry for taking so long to reply i thought knowone would reply because i put it in the wrong part of the forum, i think? but i have bought a SAFC (the first one) controller and installed it already into the loom(those wires are tight in there) and mounted it where the ash tray was i didnt mount it in there i mounted it on the outside sort of, hard to explain looks good but. As for the second hand ones coming i guess im abit late keep the other guys updated though. I got mine for 150$ which im happy with off my dads mate from work so very happy. I was just playing with it then and made it about 10 percent leaner on the full scale and noticed the engine ran smoother then i went to about 15 percent on full throttle range and ran smoother but i noticed a loss in power at about 3000 revs so i made it alittle bit richer then adjusted the ones on the side of that to make the graph smooth and gradual, and what a surprise it was smooth as through the whole rev range. It also backfired but dad said that was common after leaning a car and i should be very careful of ping. If anyone knows much about tuning these units anything at all let us know i want to save the money for the dyno run.

U dont have to spend much do u to get good sound lots of people would spend shitloads on a stereo and use about 20 percent of the power its pretty stupid ha. Nice System, ill catcha on the next thread

I LOVE IT I like ur fuel controller too i just got a second hand one and put it in i love it, I think i leaned it bit too much because it backfired for the first time but my dad said that was normal and aslong as it doesnt ping it wont blow.

Well, I know that a head unit's bass engine is talking about the bass settings, frequencies, level adjustments etc. So im guessing an amp will say it has bass engine features but what there talking about is, it has settings on there to control ur bass. which is pretty common on a sub amplifier. So u can have a bass engine head unit with any amp u want but check the amp has the frequencies and settings u want. Also if u buy the type r u might want to buy the bigger 4 channel v12 amp to run it sweeter than sweet.

MATE, The Alpine V12 range is perfect for running a sub and a set of splits, i have a mrv-f345 and runs a type S sub and type r splits sweeetly. The clarity that comes out of it is worth the extra $$$.

The thing id be checking is if u have a 0 gauge cable to ur body of ur car straight to ur negative terminal of ur battery, and also if u have a 0 guage cable to ur car to ur amp. If u do id then check that on ur negative cable from ur car to ur amp make sure u have scraped off all the paint where the lug sits and its a good tight connection.

My mum had this problem in her car. i rewired it to make sure the rca's where away from the power cables, that didnt make any difference. Then my dad played around with it and he had it unmounted and it wasn't doing it, in other words the metal body of the car wasnt touching the metal body of the amp and that fixed it. We ended up using velcro and mounting it to the carpet. Good luck

you can buy an inverter that will invert 12 V DC into 240 V AC, and then u can hook up anything to it they arent that expensive too, depending on how much power u want to get out of it.

Hello there, It sounds more like ur drawing too much current out of the power side of ur amp. Is your voice coils parralelled or series, and what ohmms is it then. If it dual 2 ohmm voice coils in a parralell connection (positive to positive) (negative to negative) u will have a one ohmm load and ur amp will get hot and cut out at half volume. Most mono block amps can run 2 ohmms minimum. Good Luck

sorry just read ur first remark about it doing it when the key is out and the turbo timer is on. This might mean that when the key is out the solenoids (electronic valves shut.) And i think the turbo timer is connected wrong also and would check the wiring of that with the wiring daigram for ur turbo timer.

Interesting that I would recommend running the diagnostic mode from this guy. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...icas+diagnostic if this guy is to brief or is missing something i can help u out because i have a 'sky is the limit' manual which has it in it. it should say on his thread that different flash sequences mean different problems. this will test ur electronic side well and ull actually see the back wheels turning if its working properly. those thumping noises is pretty weird their must be a electronic valve closed somewhere or its blocked or something i really dont know, but if its a little seized and just needs to be free'd up the diagnostic mode will help it. Good luck again

Ha everyone, Just wondering if anybody out there could help me make my mind up on which fuel controller to get at the moment im running about 12 pound boost on a stock rb20det with a k+n flat filter and i think its putting a ridiculous amount of fuel in it and not giving me the power i deserve. I've been looking at the Apexi SAFC2 which looks like a cheap option www.apexi.com i know somebody who has a turbo xs fuel controller that runs off a game boy which is also good and works well and u can select four different maps for that but i dont like how u cant import it that one is on this site www.turboxs.com.au and the mother of all fuel controllers a power fc a 'stand alone' fuel controller i like the idea of not 'piggy backing' the old ecu and starting from scratch but its definitely more expensive. Especially for the rb20det because u need to buy the AP special type power fc which turns out to be about 1100 without the controller. Yeh so if anybody has any experience with fuel controllers for the rb20det let us know. Cheers

Hi i have a r32 aswell and ive done my stereo, i was always wondering what that box was in my boot under the parcel shelf i might take mine out. But that bit of plate looks like its a part of the structure of the car, i left mine in, i dont think u shouldve taken that out, but if it sounds good thats alright. Also the wire from the battery to the fuse should be a little shorter so theres no chance of it shorting to the body and not being able to protect the wire or the battery by a fuse. I like the ring idea to, and u cant beat duct tape. haha So how does it sound when u finished it?

Hi I have just joined this forum, it sounds like ur hicas is working when its not suppose to. On my car when i run a diagnostic mode for the hicas my back wheels thump and move about 1.5 degrees each way as the hicas light flashes. maybe there is something shorting ur relay coil(for ur hicas) wire to ur air conditioner some where. I would check to see if ur back wheels are turning and if they are, look under ur dash near the foot pedals and see if there are any splits in the cables under there. My cousin had the same problem but his hicas would kick in unexpectedly, so he left it but then later on melted a fuse and melted the fuse holder aswell, what was happening was he had a cut in a yellow insulated wire that must of been tapping on bare negative wires because car sparkys dont worry about taping ground wires as they can hit the car body and not short, but when u wrap it in a big coil and sit it next to a positive cable u will have problems. yeh so it must ve been tapping together not long enough to blow the fuse and just melted it. I taped it up and put it back in the coil it was in and he hasnt had a problem Good Luck