cmfr32

Do you still have the tail shaft and gearbox mount for R33 gearbox into R32? Did you also have the set up for the speedo drive?

Don't happen to have a standard r32 air box do you?

I know it's not listed but do you have the standard r32 air filter box?

Do you have standard air filter box? Is it for sale? How much?

Is the AFM sold? I'm after one.

EVERYTHING ELSE IS STILL AVAILABLE! COME ON GUYS GET THEM QUICK! RB25 full motor going for $1200 RB25 gearbox going for only $900 Hi, I might be interested in the motor. I'm looking to put it in a 32 so I would need the wiring loom and all sensors etc. Do you still have everything? Do you have compression figures for the engine? How much would you be looking for the complete engine package (if avail)? (ecu & everything)? How much would you be looking for the complete engine package and gearbox? Craig.

Does the motor come with everything for $2500 Computer, loom, Turbo, inlet & exhaust manifolds? How many k's are on it? Do you know what it's compression is like? Was it running well - blowing no smoke, using no water etc?

Do you know how many k's are on the engine?? Have you done a compression test? if so what were the results?

Was anything done to the bottom end before bolting the head on..... New bearings ????....Rings???? How many k's on the rb30? What were the bores like??

The bottom fitting should only be used as a drain because when the can starts to fill with oil it will be unable to breath.

Definitly get it on the Dyno and check AFR's before you do damage. I had a similar problem when I upgraded my turbo, Tried gapping plugs, Elec taping the coils but no real difference. Upgraded the fuel pump (044) with rising rate fuel reg to richen it up and the miss under load disappeared. Ran it on the dyno as well watching AFR's to check it out. If its leaning out that maybe your cause. Don't get me wrong the coils could be your problem but a dyno run will certainly help find your problem.

I think there might be some sort of fuel or ign. cut for over boost. I was driving to work one cold morning and when I boosted I think the waste gate (aftermarket ext) stuck shut as my boost gauge went off the dial, over 20 psi. The motor lost ALL power like I had turned it off and then came back. I boosted again and everything worked fine. My car is a R32 with stock computer. I ran it up on the dyno to 20 psi without hitting any sort of boost cut, I don't know if mine is modifided in any way to achieve this as I have heard of other people not being able to run much more than 12-15 psi.

215 RWKW on the cheap. R32GTST standard motor. T3/T4 High mount with 36mm external waste gate (ebay $580) Just Jap front mount ($400) Custom 3" front pipe with 2" waste gate pipe plumbed back into exhaust. (made myself)($150) 3" Cat back (came with car) Malpassi 1:1.7 Rising rate fuel reg($190) Bosch 044 (intank) ($214) Blitz pod Standard computer, injectors, coils (copper plugs gapped to 0.7mm), throttle body, afm etc. 215kw @ 20psi. 188kw @ 15psi. (gfb bleed valve) Running safe afr's under 12.

As far as I'm aware it would only lean out if you were using a rising rate regulator. A fuel reg is there to equalise the pressure depending on manifold vaccum ie; when your backed off or at idle it lowers the fuel pressure to compensate for the vaccum otherwise the vaccum would pull more fuel in. So YOU might not of f**ked it. Your problem proberly wasn't caused by the reg. Maybe there was a problem with the build or bedding in? Just my opinion.

Where are you located ? May be interested.

I'll give you $100 for the r32 dump and front pipe if your interested ?

Are these motors still for sale ?

Is the stainless manifold a direct bolt on for the original rb20 turbo? Will it sit in the same place so no need for different dump pipe etc.?

where are you located ?