Ryno

I’ve just installed a Uniclutch sport into my R32. I’ve been blown away by it… it drives like a stock Toyota Corolla. It doesn’t make sense to me that a performance clutch can drive this well. I was about to pull the trigger on a Nismo Coppermix twin plate when I discovered the Uniclutch and decided to give that a shot instead. They’ve changed the game and I couldn’t be happier. I was previously using an Extreme cushioned button clutch with lightened flywheel. I’m still using the same lightened flywheel with the Uniclutch.

Good to hear you resolved the issue mate. Since my last posts, I have been continuing to improve the tune but haven’t had it on a dyno. I’ve swapped the front hubs to GK Tech ones, in hindsight it’s a change that has pro’s and cons (in a street car). The improved front roll center has definitely increased the grip at the front of the car, so much so that I’ve stiffened the front sway bar fully and removed the rear sway bar to fix the balance and stop mid corner oversteer. The drawback is the tyres scrubbing at high lock angles due to the change in Ackerman, this is particularly frustrating when parking the car at low speeds.

It’s very normal. It was a straight swap from my previous head unit.

It just fits, the top right corner just touch’s. However I like that it does as it further prevents any vibration from the display.

My exhaust is similar (I also have a Venom Cat) but I only have a 3” dump. I doubt the exhaust is the issue, as if the wastegate is doing it’s job it should always be the path of less resistance, rather than going through the turbine. It’ll be loud, but I’d be tempted to give it a run with the wastegate removed to see what boost is produced. Just limit it to one pull to make sure the hot exhaust gases don’t damage the engine bay. Then you’ll know for sure whether it is the wastegate or something else.

I haven’t hit the dyno with it yet. I tuned it myself with the Power FC hand controller as I have a wide band sensor permanently wired in. I should get it on there, just haven’t found the time. I’ve made a few more changes to the car over the last few years... Some suspension arms upgrades, rear cradle mods and GKTECH front hubs. I ditched the standard Radiator clutch fan to an electric fan (this improved my fuel economy by around 0.5 to 1 liter per 100kms). i upgraded the alternator (again!)... this time to an new LS1 140 Amp unit. I also swapped out the head unit (for the 4th time since I’ve had the car) to a Alpine HALO 9 head unit (which I can’t recommend highly enough!). Externally the car looks the same.

Yeah unfortunately my HKS GT-RS expired last year after I got some head work done. I think the extra flow was too much for the old girl. At the time the best value option For replacement was a Arashi GTX3071R. It goes well, but is definitely not quite as responsive as the old GT-RS.

I’m fine with the discussion mate, hope you can workout what’s going on.

Yeah my manifold is the same and I certainly haven’t experienced the same issues you have described. I changed turbos last year to a GTX3071R (from the HKS GT-RS) but didn’t change the manifold or wastegate setup, and have had no boost control issues with either turbo.

I have purchase a replacement head but I’m still keen to get four replacement intel valves if anyone has some available

I’m chasing four stock RB25DET inlet valves or a complete S2 RB25DET Head if it’s at the right price. PM me if you have what I’m after, cheers

Are you trying to squeeze that into the R32 headlight body? If so, I'm bloody impressed and will look awesome if you can make it work.

Yeah the idle and light cruise wasn't too far off, the on boost part of the map required the largest change

I had the same issue when I swapped out a Walbro pump for a Nismo. Even though both pumps are quoted as a similar flow rate, the Walbro flowed significantly less - I had to take around 10% of fuel out of the tune to correct the Air/Fuel ratio change.

The manufacturer of my plenum now operates under the name "Sydney Motorsports Engineering", the best way to check them out is on Facebook. I had a quick look and there's a post on 12 Feb 2015 which shows the plenum, or you can check out my build thread (for more pictures) in the projects section on here.

I used to have that style of manifold, but after several years swapped back to the standard lower runners with a MX Performance/SME plenum top (similar to plazmaman). The shorter runners really kill the torque and also increase the spooling time of the turbo - unless it's a dedicated race car there's no way I'd consider a short runner manifold (like the Otaku Garage one) again.

I had to change my gearbox plug, but that was probably because I didn't specify the correct one when I ordered the loom. I also extended one of the plugs because it wouldn't reach with the way I wanted to route the loom. But everything works well with the loom (including aircon) however it doesn't control the power steering, but that didn't bother me as I run a manual voltage controller for the solenoid.

I bought my loom from Wiring Specialties in the US. I'm very happy with the purchase, it's awesome quality... http://www.wiringspecialties.com/skyline-gts-r32-rb25det-wiring

Have a read here... http://www.sau.com.au/forums/index.php?/topic/440409-Ls2-Coil-On-Plug-Mod It should give you all the information you need

This is the wrong section, you should be asking this in the "Forced Induction Performance" section. But yes they are better, the real question is do you really need it? Splitfire and stock coils have been proven to handle over 400rwkw. The more powerful LS truck coil will allow you to run a larger gap, which will give slightly more power, better economy and driveability

Also do you think the swap has been worth it? Have you noticed better traction/squat etc?

That gear box mount looks familiar! I got the guys at Vibra Technics to make that mount - good to see it hasn't just been a one off for me! I've been considering swapping my rear cradle to an R33 one for a wile now. What offset bushes did you use? How much wider did the track end up? If I do it, I'll still be using the stock arms as mine is a daily, so trying to work out how much I'll have to flare my gaurds.

If your car is still NA you may be best to just put another RB20 box back in... They're around 20kg lighter, much cheaper and you usually don't have a problem with them until you are putting out over 250 rwkw.

MC-WOSHY Another good option that is worth checking out is Sydney Motorsports Engineering (find them on Facebook). He used to go by the name MX Performance and made my manifold. It's excellent quality and worth considering.

If you work out you need to buy part # W62546, I have a set here I bought a while ago but never fitted. Just give me some money for postage and they're yours.