Ryno

Sounds like you've got a few drama's to get to the bottom of. That power is about 30kw less than what I'd expect. If he's tuned it while that hose was off, it could mean it will run leaner now that you've reconnected it, so be careful. An adjustable exhaust cam gear (retarded by 4 deg) will also be a good addition to add to your setup above.

I've also had my eye out for an aftermarket side feed fuel rail, but unfortunately all I have come across is the top feed variety.

Yeah the only things I can think of that are still original (from 1991) aside from the chassis, are the gearbox, boot, rear bar, fuel tank, doors, glass, carpet, dash, headlights and foglights.

I'm in the same boat... I've had my 32 for 11 years now, and I can't see myself replacing it.

Don't be too concerned with the RB20DET gearbox, mine has been holding up find for the last couple of years with 250 rwkw. Might be a bit different if I was launching it on slicks down a track though. For 300hp stick with the RB20, in standard form it's a tough little motor, and tends to handle more abuse than the RB25. I've put a RB25 in mine, and the car goes bloody well, but if I was to do it all again, I would go with the RB26. Much easier conversion (wiring wise) than the RB25, and a better starting point when you want to chase more power down the track.

What about an import like the Ford Territory (imported from Victoria!) My wife loves it! I don't think she'd be too happy with the day to day stress of owning a Skyline (exhaust volume, stiff suspension, boot space, leg room etc). You've still got your toy anyway! Then when she's not looking drop a XR6 turbo engine in.... I just have to figure out how to convince her the 120,000 kay service takes a week

SOLD

Items listed in first post still available...

Still available...

The one in the above picture is the N1 item. It is a non-ABS 1" Brake Master cylinder. My understanding is most other GTR Brake Master cylinders are ABS ones, and don't have the three outlet ports like in the above picture.

The fittings arrived today... thanks mate

What are you smoking? You'd should have gone and had another look at your engine, before trying to bag this guys sale. You'll notice the rocker covers are raised at the rear... = RB25!

I've been running KU-31's on my car for the last 3 years or so, and think they're great. Reading the positive reviews you all seem to be giving the KU-36, as they're similar money to the -31, I'm considering changing to them at my next tyre change. My concern is the tyre wear. Anyone have any experience on how the life of these, compare to the KU-31?

Most good brake specialists, should be able to make up an extension so it will reach. It's often cheaper than you think too. I had custom braided brake and clutch lines (all ADR approved) made up from a brake place in Toowoomba, and they came in cheaper than what you can find on ebay. That same place can also make the hard lines that you are having trouble with. Good choice on the Master Cylinder, I run the same in my R32.

I had similar symptoms on my RB25, I went down the route of reconditioning the head, and then found that 3 of the pistons were cracked. Standard RB25DET pistons, are pretty weak in my opinion.

If they're definitely for the RB25, I'll take them... PM sent

Can you get DASH 12 for the RB25 or is it RB26 only?

The effect of Humidity on engine performance is not worth considering. Temperature and air pressure are the main factors that effect air density, which in turn will dictate engine performance. Every degree of temperature increase is equivalent to going up in elevation by 120 feet. A drop in pressure by 1 HPa has the effect of going up in elevation by 30 feet. A turbo charged car is going to be less effected by pressure changes than a naturally aspirated one, because air is being forced into the manifold at greater than ambient. Temperature is the main thing that will reduce a turbo charged cars performance. In Aviation we doing not factor Humidity into performance calculations because it is negligible.

You should be able to use your GTSt cradle and bolt in the GTR half shafts and the GTR Hubs - The extra length of the half shaft apparently isn't an issue. Nathan from "O2 Autosports" has done this very thing to his GTSt Drift car, so if you need more specific answers, give him a call (02 4423 0977). I'm sure he'll be keen to help.

Using 555cc injectors, my car makes 250 rwkw at 72% inj duty.

Also make sure you keep topping up the Brake Master Cylinder, as you do each calliper.

If you don't change the brake master cylinder, you should only need to bleed the system at the individual callipers. As for the best order to bleed them, I didn't think there was one. I'd just swap out one calliper at a time, then bleed that calliper (making sure you have a firm pedal), then swap the next calliper, and bleed it, check pedal, and so on. If you swap all the callipers at once, and then try to bleed them in one go, it can be hard to ascertain which calliper may still have air in it (if you are still getting a soft pedal after bleeding all four).

R33 GTR Bembo's use the same Bolts as in the R33 GTSt, so that is not an issue. The problem is when you use R34 Brembo callipers, as they run a larger bolt. Changing them yourself isn't a big job, the most complicated part is bleeding the brakes at the end and that's not very taxing. You may find the old rotors are hard to remove (as they tend to bond to the hub, due to rust) but WD40 and a mallet should get them off. Ideally you would change the Brake Master Cylinder to a GTR one, but your GTSt cylinder should be up to the job - you may just find that you have slightly more pedal travel than you used to have with the GTSt callipers.

The Manual Helical Diff has a 3.69:1 ratio. Unless you're running the S15 6 speed (which probably won't be able to handle the power of the RB26DETT) then the ratio will be too tall. What you probably should have done, is swap the S15 Helical centre into your S15 Viscous diff. As it's a much better centre than the viscous one... I recently changed the VLSD in my R32 to the S15 Helical centre, and it has been an awesome improvement.

My R32 Projectors definitely took the H1 globes and not H3. So I guess all R32 Projector headlights aren't the same. Have a look at the photo's in the first post, my headlights are exactly the same, so there's obviously a few running around with H1 globes. Of note, my Fog lights do take H3 bulbs.