Ryno

You could try adding a bottle of ZX1 to the engine oil... It all but eliminated any lifter noise from my RB25

My gearbox plug (reverse switch) was different and I lengthened another plug to let me route the loom the way I wanted. Also it was originally sent without a Z32 AFM plug, so I swapped mine over to get the car on the road. But they quickly sent another AFM loom, when I told them the issue.

Not the most exciting update, but I've just installed a new alternator - as my old one was on its way out. I went for a 90 Amp upgraded replacement from Phase 2 Motortrend in the US.

Cool, that's fairly common. I thought you may have broken something more serious.

When you say you had two broken subframe mounts, were these cracked on the subframe, or the pins on the bottom of the car?

Love your attention to detail... Very nice build - I wish the car was matt black though!

The dyno chart is on page 63

That's a great looking car too. I hardly ever see 300Z's on the road any more. They look bloody awesome being so low to the road.

Thanks mate, were you driving the 300ZX heading towards town?

I had a similar issue years ago. Blowing blue smoke, especially after a period off the throttle (under deceleration). Because the engine compression tested fine, I assumed it was the turbo and got it rebuilt. It didn't fix the problem. After I got the engine pulled apart it turned out to be 3 cracked pistons. [emoji20]

For around the last 10 years or so, I have been constantly plagued with little electrical dramas due to the dodgy wiring from my RB25DET conversion. Unfortunately back then you couldn't buy an off the shelf loom to do the swap, so an auto electrician converted the loom to make the new engine work but without the wiring diagrams he didn't do the best job. Fortunately those days are all over, because I have just installed my brand new loom from Wiring Specialties in the US. It wasn't completely smooth sailing on the install as I had to swap a couple of plugs over, but the loom is a work of art compared to the stock loom. Half way through the install, old loom beside the new one... I found some heat damage to the wires running around the shock tower on the turbo side... I've now routed the wires over the shock tower to prevent this occurring again. All installed!

I'm after the male side of this dash loom plug (and about 10cm of wiring so I can soldier it in). It plugs into the engine harness near the ECU. Thanks! In the mean time, if anyone with a R32 is keen to have a look at this plug on their R32 for me. Can you let me know the colour of the wires going into the male side, so I can temporarily wire it up correctly - or a photo would be even better!

I've had Wiring Specialties also throw in an LQ9 loom with my new engine loom order, so I've got the option to switch to the GM coil... very, very tempting

Fortunately replacing the centre bearing was fairly straight forward and only took me around 2 hours. I used this DIY to help tackle it... http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150909-tail-shaft-centre-bearing-replacement/?hl=%2Btailshaft The condition of my old centre bearing wasn't too bad, aside from the rubber surround sagging. So hopefully the new one lasts another 25 years!

Yep it's a 27mm on the R32 also... I just did this myself in around 2 hours. It's not too hard, though a bench vice is vital to hold the drive shaft while you get the 27mm nut off. I also found it easier to use an angle grinder to cut the rubber back and reveal the metal for the puller feet to grip on.

I've got a full engine loom arriving from them next week. Shipping wasn't too bad as they use USPS.

Just let PayPal deal with it mate. In fact all of your communication with the seller so far should have been through PayPal. If after mediating through PayPal, he still only wants to send a replacement set, swap them over and if that set also misfires I'm sure PayPal will demand a refund as they're clearly not performing as advertised.

Got to love it when what you think is going to be a 40 minute job takes closer to 3 hours! I ordered a Whiteline pineapple kit, as even though I already have urethane subframe mounts, I wanted to use two pineapples to angle the rear subframe for better traction. But when I got stuck into the job and lowered the subframe, I found that because of the width of the existing urethane bushes I wouldn't have enough length on the bolt to also fit the pineapple. So after a bit of head scratching I decided to make my own spacer out of a chopping board. This is what I came up with... This is the width compared to the Whiteline pineapple This is what it looks like installed... Not sure if I'll notice much difference, as it's not that much of a change but I figure it can't hurt to try. So now I have an opened but unused Whiteline Pineapple kit, if someone wants to grab it off me cheap. Tomorrow, I'm going to tackle replacing the driveshaft centre bearing, so hopefully that isn't another half day affair!

Another option that may work out cheaper would be to swap to LQ9 (LS truck) coils. Great looking car by the way. Where did you get the bonnet from? It's a style I haven't seen before.

Only known fix? There are several ways that could fix the problem other than gapping down the plugs. It could be a poor engine or coilpack loom. Or the engine earth could be the problem. Also the connection to the spark plug within the coil pack and the coil pack plug itself could be the issue - though this is easily fixed by cleaning the coilpack and using dielectric grease. By gapping the plugs down, you are trading off low throttle performance and economy, and the car will make more power through the rev range with the largest gap you can get away with running. So yes everyone's engine is in different levels of condition, but I'd fix the underlying problem rather than living with gapped down plugs.

Yeah you should make 260... I've got a trick exhaust manifold and run an external waste gate, which gives me an extra 20 kW or so and about 500 rpm better response.

I think you are aware of the problem (being the coils) and band aiding it by gapping the plugs down isn't really going to be a long term solution. Our setups are quite similar. Same turbo, computer, AFM, injectors. Though my car makes around 40 rwkw more at the same boost. I run Splitfires and only had an occasional misfire when using BCPR6ES plugs, but since changing to one heat range colder (the same as you are running) I've had no misfire issues.

The new box feels excellent. After using it for a couple of years the only complaint I have is the synchro between 4th and 5th sometimes doesn't keep up with my shifting, but this may be a problem with my technique rather than the box. For me, buying a new box was definitely worth it... From memory the new box cost around $2500 (through Just Jap) and was the most recent spec released by Nissan. At the time, the cheapest second hand box I could find was around $1300 and the condition would have been a complete gamble. So I may have needed to rebuild it later on, which would be another $1000 and more time with the car off the road. However if you already have a R33 gearbox, that's most of the expense, so in your case it is probably better to just recondition that one.

I love it when new parts arrive! New interior door handles and Nismo Fuel pump... I've now installed the new Fuel Pump, it wasn't quite a straight swap and required the hard fuel feed line to be shortened and two 5mm holes drilled in the bracket to mount the new base... This is the new pump compared to the Walbro that was previously installed. A little bit of a size difference! I also read this thread.... http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91993-fuel-pump-direct-feed-rewire/page-1 and decided to direct wire in the 12v feed for the fuel pump. As I already have the car battery in the boot the install was fairly straight forward. I did it a little differently as most (in that thread) and removed the 12 volt feed pin and soldered direct to that. This makes the install as clean as possible and does not modify the fuel pump loom - so it can still be unplugged and removed (if required). I took it for a test drive afterwards and the fuel ratios were very rich, so even though that Walbro pump was rated at the same litres per hour, it was delivering significantly less fuel. I had to take almost 10% of fuel out at the top end to get the ratios back to normal. Good thing about that is my injector duty has dropped so I have some extra headroom to make more power if I can convince the wife to let me change the turbo to an EFR 7163.