Ryno

Hey Paul, I can't find it in you FAQ... Do you know if the Vairiable Valve Timing change over point can be changed using the hand controller? Ryno

Unfortunately I wasn't able to stay until the end... What were the final results?

I have a series 2 AFM available - $80

Hey Predator, I put a RB25DET into my R32 a couple of years ago, and I'm still ironing out electrical dramas. Does the R32 have an engine check light? As I'm keen to hook this up to enable 'knock warning' on my power FC. Ryno

I have one to suit a Series 2 RB25DET available - $100 - PM me, if interested

I'm still waiting on the picture, senyum. Post it on here when you get a chance.

You're spot on the money Dead32, RB25DET standard turbo's all have Ceramic exhaust wheels, pre 1995 they had a steel compressor wheel mated to it. But to make it more responsive, from 1995 onward they put a nylon compressor wheel onto the ceramic exhaust wheel. Nightcrawler, might need to get back on google and do some research into the melting properties of nylon.

PM Sent

I'm also keen for a set, will you accept Paypal for payment?

Pm Sent

Why did you decide not to use these? Are they not that much better than standard?

At what RPM would this turbo, start making boost?

Yeah, if only I was in Melbourne it would be so easy... I'm keen on the turbo, but can't be without my current turbo for a few weeks waiting for yours to arrive (as I need the car on the road)

It cost me a fair bit more than $3500, but for what I've achieved - it's been worth it. The minimum $3500 I was referring to, was to purchase a RB25det front cut... and get the complete Engine, Loom, Computer, intercooler etc, then drop it in... I didn't consider slapping a turbo onto the side of my RB25DE, as I wouldn't have been able to gain the power I was after. You'd struggle to make more than 160rwkw safely with the 10:1 compression, on top of that, there are also the limitations of the RB25DE injectors and computer. In my opinion you'd be far better off buying the turbo car, and gaining all the good stuff in one hit, than trying to dodgy up a turbo conversion. If he sold the R33 GTS for around $12,000 - then purchased a R33 GTS25t for $16,000... He would have gained a RB25DET, loom, computer, intercooler, bigger brakes and wheels, five stud hubs, LSD etc... for $4000. And you wouldn't have to worry about getting booked by the cops for having a turbo conversion on a non-turbo car... not to mention the insurance trouble you would have on the modified car.

Hey Julzy, What RPM were you seeing 10 psi of boost achieved? How much extra lag does this turbo have over a stock one? Cheers, Ryno

You would be far better off selling you current car, and buying a turbo R33. The conversion will cost $3500 minimum. And you will still not have the larger brakes, and five stud hubs of the turbo model. My car started out life as a R32 GTS25 (non turbo RB25DE)... I now have a RB25DET engine, R33 brakes, LSD, new clutch, computer etc, etc - I'd hate to think what it has cost me all up. But the far smarter option would have been, to sell my car and buy a R32 GTR.

Hey mate, what is the age of this turbo... Is it the current spec of GCG Hiflows, or older? Cheers

Are these brake lines ADR compliant?

Have you got a picture of the boost gauge with the pillar mount? Does the boost gauge read in psi or bar? Cheers, Ryno

This seems to be a common problem with the Power FC, and it is usually due to poor wiring or a blown fuse: See Link... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...122474&st=0 You need to check: 1. Check all fuses - twice! 2. Wire in a direct 12v from the battery to the battery input on the ECU (pin 58) 3. Check earth wires (pins 60 and 50) 4. If it's still not working start checking all the other wires, for a break or something connected where it shouldn't be. Hope that helps

Hey mate, Are you willing to sell parts off the engine, or are you planning to sell it whole? As I'm after the "U" shaped rubber hose that goes between the two vents on the rocker covers, and also the knock sensor loom. Cheers, Ryan

You need to workout what power you are ultimately chasing... The R32 Gearbox is lighter than an R33 one, and can still handle 250 rwkw. So if your power figure is less than that, you are much better off sticking with that gearbox. When fitting an R33 one, the standard tail shaft will not fit, and will make the install a bit more difficult. The engine drops in, no worries at all. However the biggest nightmare is the wiring. This is mainly due to the R33 battery being in the boot - so both looms have to be spliced into each other. If I could do my engine conversion all over again, I would send both looms off to a specialist to get sorted, prior to the install.

I had the same trouble with my car... I decided to remove the HICAS and install a lock bar. By doing so you pull about 20 kg of weight off the car, and then I fitted a R33 power steering pump. You can disable the HICAS (so you don't get that light coming on) by disconnecting the smaller of the two plugs that go into the HICAS control unit - which is in the boot, beside the rear speaker amplifier.

Hitman is located in Penrith, he has a web site (www.hitman.hm) though it appears to be down at the moment. His contact number is: 0417259391

All my fuses were fine... I had a shorted out earth wire in the loom (the one from pin 60)