Ryno

I got one you can have for $50 + postage

Junior, won't be able to get a pic to you till Monday Arvo (my USB cable is at work) Leg41, as I said the extractors are only 6 months old, so they are in great nick

Bump

I've got a pair of front calipers I'm selling for $200... I imagine postage to the states would be quite expensive

You're right those calipers look almost identical to the ones that came off my R32GTS25, the GTS rotor is only 20 - 22 mm so you will have a hard time getting the 28mm GTSt rotors to fit.

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Coby extractors - suit RB20/25DE (used 6 months) ** $220 R32 GTSt 4 pot front brakes - retapped with GTS brake lines (direct bolt up to GTS25 Skylines) ** $150 R32 GTSt front disks (recently machined) ** Sold Parts off 1991 R32 GTS25: Rear diff, with half shafts ** $80 4 x hubs (with brakes) - Good upgrade for RB20DE Skylines ** $80 Space saver wheel 4 x 114.3 ** $40

I don't know what the case is for the R33. But the R32 GTS25 has the same box as the R32 GTSt. As for how much power they can take? There's a guy in NZ running 10 sec 1/4 (with slicks) and has about 330 kw (at the engine) and he's only just starting to break the R32 GTSt gear box now. It all depends on how you treat it, some say it won't take more than 200 Rwkw, but this guy has proven it takes 250 Rwkw before it starts breaking.

Gatty, You're definately better off selling your car and buying a turbo model instead - if you're after more power. I justified doing the swap on mine (to the RB25DET) because I like the R32 and it never came out with the RB25DET... Here are some rough figures on what it has cost me to do the conversion: $4000 - 5 stud conversion with GTSt Type M brakes, R200 LSD, and 17" Wheels $4000 - Series 2 RB25DET engine/ ecu swap, CES twin dump pipe, Apexi Pod filter, R34 GTt intercooler, and turbo timer. Both the figures above included labour... $8000 is a fair amount of money to make your car the equal to a R33 GTSt, as you can probably work out - selling (or trading) the car is the smartest option. Putting NOS on you car is also silly, considering it's illegal to drive on the streets with it hooked up, and in time it will wear out you engine. Ryno

Yeah I can't wait to feel the difference with this new engine... It should be in the range of 160 -170 rwkw running stock boost (due to the dump pipe etc...)

It's a Series 2 RB25DET... I've got a CES twin dump pipe, adjustable cam gear, R34 GTt intercooler, and apexi power intake for it - so hopefully it should go alright.

Mine got 94 rwkw, in forth gear Mods: Kobe extractors, and 2 1/2 inch exhaust That was with a stock air filter, so it might have been stuggling to get enough air. The new engine is in the car and should be run on the dyno this friday, I'll let you guys know the improvement.

What's wrong with the Wolf, Sydneykid?

While you guys are on the topic.... How good is the SAFC 2 when installed in a 1995 GTSt? I'm considering getting one, but want to have an idea of the power gains, and any problems incountered Cheers

You're wrong about this dude, if the temp of the air is hotter for the same given pressure it IS less dense, and WILL require less fuel to stay at the same air fuel ratio. The Air flow meter is correctly sensing the change in Density, and fueling correctly to compensate. With a MAP sensor (if there is no assosiated temp sensor) it cannot make this correction.

You guys are all looking into this Map vs AFM discusion far too complicated... Hopefully I can dumb it down for you. An Air flow meter, effectively measures the amount of air particles travelling past it at any given time. Therefore the computer supplies "x" amount of fuel, in a direct proportion to the amount of air particles... Sweet A Map sersor purely measures the preasure of those air particles (not actually how many air particles are there) and supplies fuel in proportion to air pressure. This is a problem (as has been stated before) because it doesn't account for temperature. If your climate doesn't vary that much, it's not a big problem... However as an example, if your tune was done in ISA conditions (+15 degrees at sea level, air pressure 1013 hPa), and you're driving now on a 40 degree day (with the same air pressure of 1013hPa) you'll be running slighly rich as the density altitude is 3000 feet, and not at sea level (which is what your computer, thinks it is).

You missed my post Sydneykid... How much extra Lag can I expect (using a GCG Hiflow), when compared to a standard R33 series 2 turbo?

While you're at it Sydneykid... How much laggier is the GCG Hiflow, when compared to a standard Series 2 turbo?

You are right Predator, the water pump does draw power from the engine... but if we could get our hand on a light weight crankshaft pulley, it would be easier, and less expensive. Out of interest, Issue 40 of "High Performance Imports" (GTR Special No. 4) - has an add on page 11 for a super light weight crankshaft pulley for the RB26DETT, by Power Enterprise. I wonder if they make one for the RB25DET?

The length is 12cm, and the overall diameter is 16cm

This is the email Reply I got from Brett turner at Go Fast Bits: Hi Ryan, We don't do a pulley for the RB series engine, because they rely on the harmonic balancer. Without it, the oil pump will fail and therefore the engine will shortly after if it is not stopped in time, which is unfortunate because there would be a significant gain to be had by removing the extremely heavy factory pulley. Regards, Brett Turner Engineer/Technical Sales Go Fast Bits +612 9569 7648 www.gofastbits.com.au

Bump again

Sent PM

Bump

Toshi, Do you know how much extra power to expect with this new chip?