Ryno

I use a MX Performance manifold that I'm extremely happy with. If desired, he can make it in 1" diameter (which is what I went for). This has given my turbo unreal response.

As a target for you to aim for, my GT-RS makes 5psi at 2000rpm. However, I have a very trick exhaust manifold and run an external gate with the internal wastegate welded shut. I also have tomei poncams in my RB25, though still run the standard lower runners with a plenum top similar in principle to a plazmaman.

I'm pretty sure my throttle cable is from a S13, to reach the throttle on my FFP.

I just found this as a cheaper alternative to the RH9 Alternator... doesn't look quite as sexy though http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R31-RB30E-120-Amp-3-0L-6-Cyl-Turbo-Non-Turbo-Bosch-Alternator-/161278193422?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item258cedef0e

I'm keen to hear if anyone has had experience fitting the i30/Maxima alternators mentioned earlier. Sounds like a cheap way to get the extra amps, provided it bolts straight up.

I've fixed the problem, and the solution was so simple I feel rather foolish... I checked all the plugs and continuity of both the injector loom and from the ECU to the injector plug (for the injector loom). All tested good, however when I unplugged the ECU I noticed the end of the ECU plug wasn't quite flush with the housing on the ECU. Cylinder #1's ground is right at the end of the plug (pin out 101) and so is a switched 12v power (pinout 109) - which I imagine powers the injectors. When I looked inside the plug I noticed both pinout's 101 and 109 had a slightly splayed female connection. So I closed the connection back up, bolted the ECU plug back together and the problem is fixed. I guess over time the plug worked it's way loose at that end and #1 cylinder was the first to drop offline when the connection became dodgy.

Cool, I've ordered a new injector loom (from "Wiring Specialties" in the states) so hopefully that fixes the issue. In the mean time, I'll check for any obvious problems with my old loom (continuity, grime in plug etc). As driving around on 5 is killing me!

I'm also currently dealing with this problem of #1 cylinder not firing on my RB25. As I have a wideband permanently wired in, I was quickly able to diagnose that the #1 injector was not squirting fuel. I initially thought the injector was clogged so cleaned it and reinstalled and a week or so later the problem resurfaced. I then figured the injector was on it's way out and ordered a new Nismo 555cc from Japan. After driving to work on 5 cylinders for the last two weeks, with the car sounding like a poxy WRX, I installed the new injector only to find it is still not firing on that cylinder. I have found the problem, as I connected a mutimeter to #1 then #2 injector plags and found that #1 is only getting 7.5 volts and #2 is getting 11.5 volts. Any idea what would cause this? My next step will be to pull the injector loom apart and look for anything dodgy there.

Good move, I don't regret installing it for one second. The other great benefit is that the sensor will be installed in the correct location in the exhaust. This will give you a more accurate reading of the AFRs (when you get it tuned) rather than a sniffer in the tail pipe.

Thanks Ants, I believe they're T10's

Ants, what type of bulbs are the number plate lights? I'm also looking to replace them with some LEDs

Arggghhh... I have finally fixed my tuning woes - Here are the details I've had a weird drama with my tune changing. The car would run fine for a few weeks then on random occasions the whole tune would go rich or lean, then then next day it would be fine. This has been happening on and off for around the last 8 years, but has been more apparent lately. Then about a month ago I had the whole tune shifted to a lean condition and stayed there. I initially thought this could have been a faulty Fuel pressure regulator, but swapping this out did not change the fault, so that led me to the airflow meter. After cleaning it, the tune went back to normal and thought I had fixed the issue, then a week later it happened again. I was pretty positive that the AFM was causing the problem, and this led me to the idea that the wiring was at fault, so I bought a new Tomie Z32 plug to wire in. I had my mechanic at the time wire in a stock Z32 AFM plug around 9 years ago. It turns out that plug never had the 12v ground connected and only had the three stock RB25 AFM wires connected. Once I fixed the wiring (by connecting the ground) the whole tune has gone super lean but this has fixed the problem! I reset the Power FC tune back to factory and am now in the process of tweaking this tune, but it is already a massive improvement to what I had before. The tune hasn't been stock for around 9 years, as each dyno tuner would tweak the tune to suit the conditions of the day, their tuning style, and the dramas my AFM was giving them (which was unknown at the time). I was quite hesitant to lose my tune and go back to a 'nominal' Power FC tune, however then engine has come alive, especially in the mid range. So my lessons from this are: 1. I had my z32 afm installed by a mechanic that apparently knew what they were doing - this blind faith in them at the time has caused me around 8 years of frustration with an intermittent/changing tune. So do the research and modifications yourself (if you have the skills) as you know the job that has been done. 2 I would have been unable to get to the route of this issue, without the wideband wired in 24/7. This has been the single biggest improvement to the drive-ability of my car (as I'm constantly aware of my tune and have been able to perfect it via the hand controller). It also gives you a much more complete picture when diagnosing problems.

SOLD Pending payment

I have for sale a Nismo Fuel Pressure Regulator in as new condition, in original box with instructions (if you can read Japanese) This is adjustable, and suits the following engines: PS13 SR20DET RPS13 SR20DET BRN32 RB26DETT ECR33 RB25DET BCNR33 RB26DETT BNR34 RB26DETT AWC34 RB26DETT I fitted this to my car for one day only, as I was trying to diagnose a fault, but as it's probably not required for my power output, I've decided to put it up for sale. $120 delivered anywhere within Australia. Message me here, or call Ryan on 0414792608

Although the Power FC is fairly basic compared to most of the top replacement ECU's, the hand controller is an awesome feature. I've had a Power FC in my car for the last 10 years and have recently fitted a wide band sensor with an in car display. I just wish I fitted the wideband around 10 years ago! It has given me the ability to fine tune the low end part of the tune and get it much better than I've ever had from a dyno tune (my car is also a daily driver). Due to the monitoring ability of the ECU, coupled with the wide band, I am now able to diagnose most faults on the fly without having to dump it with a mechanic saying "it's not running right". I recently found my Fuel Pressure Regulator had failed, without having the real time monitoring of everything this could have been a costly exercise for a mechanic to trouble shoot. So yes go for the Power FC, with boost controller (I use an Eboost Street) and I'd strongly consider having a wideband fitted. Mine cost around $400 - just make sure you get the sensor bung welded in the correct position, as the stock narrow band location is too close to the turbo for it to read accurately (mine is just forward of the CAT).

Great read, though I'm hanging out for an open deck RB25!

28kph - 210kph in 4th gear only = 15 seconds

Wow, I've just cleaned my Splitfires and used dielectric grease as per the tutorial above and my misfire is gone... Great work guys!

I'm interested to see what you come up with, as I may go down a similar path. My Splitfires are now around 8 years old and it's starting to miss on high boost (only around 280rwkw). Does anyone know how much life you can expect to get from Splitfires?

Just fitted the R32 GTR front bar and reo... I'm very happy with the look of it. I didn't have to modify the bar at all to make it fit, though I did re-drill the corner mounts (under the indicators) as the hole in the GTR bar seems to be further rearward by about 10mm. Of note this is the 6th different front bar I have had on the car since I bought it around 15 years ago.

After a week of driving with the wide band fitted, I stoked by the result. The changes I've been able to make to the tune (on the fly) have transformed the car. My car has had around 6 full dyno tunes over the time I've owned the car and it has never been right on light load... I've now been able to get that part of the map perfect. If you have an ECU with a hand controller, this is one mod I highly recommend - I just wished I installed the wide band around 8 years ago!

Due to being pretty unhappy with my last two tunes, I've decided to take matters into my own hands and permanently wire in a wide band sensor. After reading some good feedback (on SAU) about locally made Tech Edge wide band sensors, I ordered the 2J9 unit with LX1 screen. I installed it this weekend and routed the wires through the bung where the CAT temp sensor usually goes, then under the carpet through the car. Fortunately both the Power FC hand controller and wide band screen manage to fit into the dash pocket... so I can keep the goodies hidden away. This photo doesn't do it justice, but the LX1 screen is much brighter and easier to read than the Power FC one.

Good timing for this thread to pop up... I'd just decided to drop some coin on a wide band unit that I'll have wired in permanently, when I noticed this thread. I had my eye on a Koso unit from the states, but after reading Guilt-Toy's advice I think I'll go for an 2J9 Tech Edge unit with LX1 display.

Rolls you car makes similar power and torque to mine... Going another RB20 box isn't going to last; you may have to bite the bullet and get a RB25 box. My RB20 box lasted 21 years of abuse (and 5 years at around 240rwkw) until I was overcome with a quest for more torque. One day on the dyno with my current setup, had it whining like crazy and in need of replacement. 250rwkw seems to be all they can handle.

Your power steering pump problem sounds weird. I've drained fluid from mine a few times and have never had to bleed it when topping up the fluid again. I believe this is because the reservoir is the high point in the system, so any air should work its way up to the reservoir. I've removed the HICAS rack (and lines) and am running a RB25 power steering pump though.