mr manfringinsen

I bought the Whiteline sway bars, Bilstein shocks and various bushes in the group buy approx three years ago. Due to circumstances beyond my control I didn't get around to installing them until recently. Unfortunately I discovered I had the forked style rear Bilsteins for a GTR instead of the heim joint GTST style. I fired off an email to SK just to let him know, but had reconciled myself to the fact that I should have checked when I recieved them, Caveat Emptor. He not only found someone who required the GTR shocks and happened to have a set of GTST's to swap but organised the shipping etc. This is done on his own time. Thank you SK

DaveB The third adjuster is underneath the little idler wheel at the bottom. Loosen the idler wheel first before you nip it up. If you remove the plastic guard under the front of the car it is as plain as day. My power steering made some noise before I changed the oil. It was reasonably obvious because if you turned the steering at low speed, it made the noise louder

Mine made a sound which at first sounded like the timing belt rubbing it's cover. It turned out the turbo was coming loose on the exhaust manifold. I nipped up the nuts on the four studs and it was as right as rain.

The ignition timing shouldn't stop the car from running. If you need to time it, find the loop of white wire coming out of the loom at the back of the head. Put the timing light trigger on it and aim the timing light at the timing marks on your harmonic balancer. +0-5-10-15-20 degrees from left to right from memory. Adjust the CAS to 15 or 20 degrees. This will at least test that the coils are trying to trigger a spark.

What problem did you have with the PWR lines?

I'd suggest it is 141244km's.

I have made up a tool to compress the valve springs and remove the retainers but I am concerned about replacing them. There isn't a great deal of room as the valve spring is recessed into the head. If anyone has done this in the past have you used special retainer pliers or some other method to replace them?

I believe each mines ECU is set up for each individual cars modifications. As you have noticed they can give you some information if you give them your serial number etc. I have yet to do this. Hopefully they will tell you if your ECU is optimised for turbo type A, injector size B etc etc. My unit is very aggressive on the ignition timing and I have to use RON98. Moving your static timing around seems to have an effect on when the trans locks up. It may help the on/off feeling when driving on the freeway. I think it works by more load being shown to the transmission on lighter throttle when the ignition is advanced. There is a link from the ECU to the Transmission CPU which transmits the current load on the motor to the Trans I believe. If you hear a tinkling noise kinda like noisy tappets its called pinging and you are too far advanced for your petrol. The repair will be expensive if you leave it that far advanced. I used to hear it on light throttle but it would stop if I gave it more throttle so its not just when you are giving it the berries that you may have problems. I had to retard it to stop the pinging.

Na its customised, they removed the grill badge.

Have a compression check or leakdown test done to see if the headgasket, valves, rings etc are OK.

I have a mines in mine which is pretty much stock in every other way. I find that it pings on small throttle applications so I have to retard it enough to get around the small throttle pinging instead of under load. The better the fuel the less trouble I have. Mines looks like it has set up a english email support on its website. I haven't given them the details on my one yet but I will. I believe they set them up for your application when they are first purchased. So they are set up for turbo A, cam B, etc

DaveB The way your trans cooler was mounted with the hose fittings at the bottom will trap the air at the top of the cooler and not allow the oil to pass through all of the cooler fins. This is why the standard cooler is mounted with one fitting at the top and one at the bottom. It allows the air to bleed out of the cooler. I would suggest putting the hose fittings at the top.

If you remove the front shaft and experience no vibration when you go for a drive, then the problem is the front shaft. If it still vibrates the problem is elsewhere. If it changes the vibration you have a problem front shaft and a problem elsewhere.....maybe..... I replaced mine with a 2nd hand GTR shaft from SSS. $220 The GTR comes very close to the selector cable on the auto box. I had to fiddle to stop them rubbing but it hasn't rubbed since.

Stage-ay I reckon

Does anyone know of any methods to do a wheel alignment in their garage and what sort of accuracy is possible?