grippy

Doonside is the closest train station to E.C. You can walk it but it will take you about an hour. Best hop a cab. Not sure about bus services. See you all at turn 2 where I wrecked my previous R32.

The R32 will return one day, then we can go toe to toe, maybe next years championship. It will be good to see how the two compare. I'm very happy with our results and I know there is at least 2 more seconds in the S13 for the future. Congratulations on a great drive and a great result. Rgds, Andrew..

I have a load of photos from this SS. Pls pm me if you would like your photo emailed to you. Rgds, Andy

Great day at the creek on the 7th. My brothers S13 ran a PB and we are stoked with it. It has been a long time coming. As for me, my car still needs the head off and back on and new set of rubber but I'm hoping to have it there for mid May SS. It has been a couple of years since I have had an official time at the creek, so really looking forward to another visit. I saw some unreal times from the 7th with the R8 radical into the 1.30's. That is crazy!! If we can hover around the 1.50's I'll be stoked. I have a load of photos from the 7th so pm me your email addresses and car numbers or make/ model and I'll email them to anyone that wants them. See you all there in May, maybe even Wakefield in early May.?? Rgds, Andy..

We will ce taking part in the round of Super sprint this Sunday at Eastern Creek. Most likely in the S13. Anyone else interested, would be nice to see more skylines.

Sounds like you have no boost sense line for the turbo actuator. This will cause your turbo to produce max boost all the time due to no muscle air to open your internal wastegate. There should be a vacuum line from the inlet manifold or turbo outlet casing to your actuator on the turbo. This is essential to have so your boost can be controlled. Have someone check it out if you don't understand it or your turbo won't last very long. Good luck..

Modify the living sh*t out of your car, as much as you can possibly afford, then leave it in the garage and drive it to and from the track. Use your car for what it was designed for. The smile on your face will be bigger than anything you can achieve on the roads. Problem solved...

Thanks for info, I will check out the website.. Sounds like it will do the job.. Rgds, Grippy.

Haltech have released the new Platinum Pro especially designed to compete with the now discontinued Power FC for the RB25DET engine. Has anyone used this new ECU and shed any light on the features and ease of use? I'm keen to know if this ecu has data logging and base maps for certain levels of mods done to the RB25. Does anyone know if this ecu can be used for other RB series engines also? i.e does it contain base maps and tuning range for rb20-26-30?? I have some info passed on to me from a tuner, and been told that it has auto timing retard and fuel compensation as protection for your engine but I'm not sure how this works. Any info greatly appreciated. Rgds, Grippy

If you fit the RB25 crank and rods, and use 82mm forged RB20 pistons won't the extra stoke cause the pistons to run proud of the deck, (block) ?? Maybe this is why the 4AGZE pistons are the preferred option??

Hey Mark, Let me know when you order, I'll try them out and you know I will really test the limit of these tyres... I've been looking into my blue smoke issue and it looks like it is the turbo bleeding oil at full boost. I will just run it as it is till it lets go completely and then get a new cartridge from GCG. Spewing!!! I will never be able to replace it to the same spec as my turbo is discontinued now. Need to find $1200 to get it rebuilt also... Don't lose sight of Targa either, we need to make it a regular event every year in the R32. Engine build is going nowhere also, no $$$.!! This will change in the new year.. Cheers, Big Bro...

Bring it on.... Targa within 18 months or bust...!!!

Thanks for the input, I feel that O-ringing my block is possibly not going to give me any advantage. The engine is going to be used 90% of the time for track/ supersprint work although it will remain registered. I have a good friend that owns a motorsport shop that mainly deals with drag cars and every engine I see there is O-ringed. So I cannot get an objective opinion from him. He believes that all high boosted engines should be o-ringed but I tend to disagree. I have another friend that was recommended to O-ring his SR20, he did so, then 6 months later has the block filled to remove the o-ring cutout after advice from a different tuner.??? What is going on there?? The problem that I have with it is that once it is done the block is never the same. I think I will build this motor without the O-ring machining, run either a cometic or Tomei metal gasket, run the boost that I need and go from there. If I find that I start bowing out metal head gaskets maybe I will consider modifying the block further but I would like to keep my block in original condition till then. Thanks for opinions, I would like to look into this further before a final decision is made. I am still leaning towards no o-rings. Rgds, Grippy

Few Skylines spotted in the Qantas Jet base car park. R33's, a black R32 and a few Silvia's.. Let us know who you are.

I'm keen but too pricey for me.. I'd take it for $600.

I am throwing up if I should O-ring my RB cylinder block after the rebore is done? I have heard many arguments for and against. Please post your opinions here. I wish to run 25-30psi through the motor when completed. Head gasket has not yet been decided as this swings with the decision on o-ringing the block. Considering a Cometic triple layer 1.2mm. All opinions appreciated. Rgds, Grippy

I would be taking it back to the guy that did you 100k service and put it in his court. Obviously something he has done has contributed to this. Possibly the timing belt was not tensioned correctly and after some kms the timing belt has stretched as they do and it may have jumped a tooth. Does the car drive normally when you get it going??? Or does it just continue to die? I'd definitely be taking it back.

How many kms on engine and how many on chassis? Proof of 2.8ltr will be asked for by any serious buyer..

I don't know anyone that just buys a track car and starts racing!! Most people buy a car that is a good platform for a future race car and develops it slowly. There is a lot more to racing than just buying a car... It is a slow and expensive process that requires dedication of time and skill both on and off the track. If your super keen I would advise looking for a competitive base car, (S13 Silvia, R32 GTR or GTST, Toyota Sprinter, etc.) and start off with some small mods, join a CAMS affiliated car club, get yourself a CAMS Level 2 speed licence, and start doing some practice days, club events and open days. You will meet people at the track that will give you advice and help you progress towards your dream. Just remember $$$$$ are everything in motorsport and mostly buys you nothing but disappointment, but this is what gives you such elation when you succeed. Good luck.

I use the same 10w-50w but I have used 20w-50w and the same result. This is my 3rd RB20 that I track and they have all behaved the same with breather oil. Only happens when the car is cornering hard. Must be oil pickup and surge in the sump. I am building a new engine that will have a baffled sump so we will see if that finally fixes it. Grippy.

I agree that the RB25DET is a cheaper option as a direct replacement. My issue is that I have a R32 GTSt, and I wish to keep the RB20 block due to the fact that I wish to use new forged pistons and rods and I wish to keep the car as close to factory spec as I can. I don't have a ready ported RB25 head as I do a RB20, I don't have a RB25 gearbox, I don't have side feed injectors or a power FC to run it. I already have two RB25 cranks and once the cost of machining is out of the way I will only need to pay for gaskets rods and pistons. If I spend this money on RB25 complete engine I will not end up with a bulletproof 2.2 ltr that can be easily eprom tuned. I will have a brand new engine instead of a ready thrashed one also. If I could get a forged and tuned RB25 for the same price I would go for it. But ECU is still a big cost on top. Problem is that I have spent so much already on the RB20 and I'm happy with the way it goes on the track as there is only ever one or two cars that can keep up, so I really have no need for the RB25. I also have Tomei pon cams for the RB20 wich cannot be used in the RB25. If engine upgrade does happen it would most likely be a RB30/25 build anyway. Any other opinions on O-ringing your block?? I'm leaning towards not having it done!! Grippy.

It's normal for a RB20DET to blow alot of oil out the breather when revved hard and cornered hard. 19psi of boost will do that. As for your knock, you will have to do some serious listening and be sure it is a knock from the motor. The RB20 is pretty hard to kill so I doubt your engine is gone. If your engine is out take a good look at your flywheel to be sure it has not got any loose bolts and not warped. You could be having piston slap but smoke would be evident out the xsorst. Check your belts and pulleys. If engine still in car try it in and out of gear when running to identify sound. I have been trying to control the oil from the breather on my RB20 for years now and it still keeps blowing oil into my intake. I have tried everything, baffled catch can, oil restrictor in block, catch can return line to sump, and it still does it when I go to the track. Good luck with your troubleshooting. Compression test all the cylinders but if no smoke you should have no problems. If you can get a hold of a stethoscope you can hold against the block to listen for the noise and target where it is coming from. Rgds, Grippy