grippy

By the way my RB26dett Ceffy makes 321rwhp @ 1 bar (14 psi) running stock turbos and a power FC D-Jetro. Still needs a lot of work as it is very rough thanks to dodgy previous owner. Car is in Malaysia, (KUL) due to my work. The R32 is my car in SYD. I will post photos as soon as I take some. Rgds, Grippy

I have an RB26dett Ceffy, and hoping to get some advice from anyone else with one. I have an issue with my steering rod as it comes throught the firewall, the angle of the rod is very sharp and it fouls on the side of the firewall hole, leaving wear on the steering rod. The conversion was already done when I bought the car and I'm not sure if this is caused when the RB26 went in? The steering rod first connection in the engine bay is to a solid alloy block spacer and then to a single uni joint that goes to the steering rack. It looks like there should be 2 uni joints to correct this bad angle I have coming out from the firewall?? Can anyone confirm if there is 1 or 2 uni joints for the steering in the engine bay? I think that maybe one of the uni's was worn and it was just replaced with a solid block of alloy to save money. Any help appreciated. Rgds Grippy

I have changed the coil packs for splitfire ones and the problem is still the same! Any other suggestions on what can be causing this? It must be a sensor causing this as it only happens when the throttle is steady. Any suggestions appreciated. Rgds, Grippy

I was thinking it may be the coil packs but hoping not as I know how expensive splitfires are. I have a set on my RB20 I can borrow and try, so I'll see how that goes. I'll let you know. Thanks for the tip. Rgds.

I'm having similar problems with my RB26DETT running a power FC with MAP sensor. I might look into the ignitor pack also. Mine only misfires when I hold the throttle steady above 4000rpm. Very strange indeed. I'll let you know if I find out what my problem is. Rgds, Grippy

My RB26DETT runs a D jetro power FC and a 600hp walbro in tank fuel pump, all else is stock. Runs 1bar (14psi) of boost. When the engine reaches 4000rpm and the throttle is held constant the engine intermittantly misfires and the turbos chug. If I leave the foot planted and continue to accellerate there is no misfire and same on decel. The misfire continues at steady throttle at all RPM above 4000. Any suggestions on what may be causing this? I was thinking maybe fuel pressure, or spark being blown out, but strange as it only happens when throttle is held steady. Maybe MAP sensor or crank angle sensor? For now I'm baffled. Will advise if I find out. Rgds, Grippy.

It seems that I cannot buy R32 GTR rear only coil overs from anywhere. They are only sold in complete sets from all the major suppliers. I think my best option is to source some GTST rear hubs and change them over. At least that way I can keep my buddy club coil overs and it should be a lot cheaper than buying another set of coil overs that I will only use half of. If anyone has any R32 GTST rear hubs for sale, I'm keen to buy. Rgds, Grippy.

Correction from previous post: The rear hubs in my new R32 with the fork type lwr fitting are cast alloy and not iron as I previously thought!! After I scrapped off all the road grime I found very shiny alloy hubs. I have removed the stock rear shock and compared it to my coil over and the mount point on the fork type (stock) shock is 50mm longer than that of the coil over with the single eyelet fitting. It seems that this dimension is extended by the fitting on the end of the shock and not the shock itself. Also being a stock shock it would be longer in length when unloaded than a coil over. I rang Buddy Club Aust today and they do not sell the lower fork style fitting so I cannot just simply replace only this. More bad news from them was they do not sell rear shocks only and I would have to buy a set of 4..(Spewing).. It looks like I will have to sell my near new Race Specs for whatever I can get for them and buy a new set of Race Specs for GTS4/GTR. My worry is that as Sydney Kid mentioned, I will need GTR rear shocks but not GTR front shocks as they are a different length? If I was to buy GTR shocks all round would they fit the GTST with GTR/GTS4 rear end? It seem that the front coil overs would be the wrong length then. My concern is now of course the the new front shocks not fitting?? If I was to buy 4 new GTR coil overs I would then be stuck with new front GTR coil overs and near new rear GTST coil overs. Is it possible to modify the lower buddy club fitting from eyelet to fork fitting? I think these fittings are cast heat treated alloy and can't be screwed with. Any ideas appreciated. The saga continues, will update as it unfolds. Rgds, Grippy.

I had a good look today and the hubs are cast iron with the shock rubber mounted in the hub, not on the end of the coil over as on the my old GTST. I will confirm tomorrow but it looks like the shocks themselves are much longer than the coil overs I already have (spewing) and if this proves to be the case I will have to buy new rear coil overs for the thing.!! The only way I will be able to tell is to lay them side by side. How will I ever sell only rear coil overs and buy new GTS4 buddy club race spec coil overs rear only?? This will be a nightmare. As mentioned this rear end may have come from anywhere and my brother has mentioned it may even be from a Z32?? I may be better off trying to source standard GTST hubs or a rear cradle with no diff but with hubs but these are hard to get because of the silvia boys doing 5 stud conversions. Does anyone know if there is any other differences that may be in this rear end? as in axles? Diff? The brakes look the same as the GTST, but are the rear brake lines the same, as I have my old braided brake lines to fit? I'm worried they may not fit also? I will update info as I find out the hard and expensive way. Makes me wish I never wrote off my previous one!!!! Thanks for your info, it has been very helpful. Pls ask if I can return the favour as I have a fair amount of experience with the R32 due to my situation... Rgds, Grippy..

Cheers for the info. I will get it on stands and get under the rear tomorrow and have a good look as I have only seen them from lying on the ground. There is something fishy going on there with the type of rear end in it. Do you know if you can replace the lower part of the coil over by simply screwing the base fitting off and replacing with a fork type? Would Buddy Club possibly sell just the screw on bottom fitting? I'm pretty sure the whole coil over is made from alloy and cutting and welding would not be such a good option. They are race spec dampers. Anyhow I will check it out thoroughly and let you know what comes of it. I hope I don't have to buy new rear coil overs for it as they cost a bomb! As I'm sure you are aware. Rgds, Povo.

I have previously owned a 1990 Type M R32 GTST and I had buddy club coil overs in it. This car was wrecked at the race track and I now own a 1993 R32 GTST. On the 1990 model the rear shocks lower mount (on the hub) was a single eyelet type which the coil overs mirrored exactly and fitting was direct. On the newer 1993 GTST the rear shocks lower mount has a fork type mount set up. I am not sure if my coil overs from the 1990 R32 will fit the 1993 model due to the different setup of the rear shocks? Does anyone know if the single eyelet shock can be fitted to the fork type hub fitting or will I have to replace the lower fitting on the rear coilovers to suit? I have not yet removed the stock shocks to find out what the situation will be but from looking it seems the later model has a different rear shock setup? I though all R32's were the same? Any help appreciated. Rgds. Grippy.

Thanks heaps for all the info. It seems to be as I expected with the GTS4 shell being heavy like a GTR. I think I will let the GTS4 offer go and look to find a GTST as I had before. I was really happy with the GTST anyway. I will post my final results later when I get myself a new shell but looks like it will be a GTST. The tough part is finding a straight R32 GTST shell as they all seem to have the same fate as mine did. Put into the wall somewhere!!! Thanks again for all input it has been excellent info. Rgds, Grippy

Does anyone know if I buy a R32 GTS4 damaged will I be able to put all my R32 GTSt parts into the GTS4 shell? Can the GTSt cross member fit? Will my GTSt coil overs fit into GTS4? Can the 4wd system be removed and 2wd running gear fitted? Is the rear cradle the same? Does the GTS4 have front wishbone suspension the same as GTSt? I have the opportunity to get a GTS4 shell to replace my wrecked GTSt but I'm not sure if it will be possible to have everything bolt up to a GTS4 shell. Any help is greatly appreciated. Rgds, Grippy

Thanks, As I thought too many problems. I will continue to source a RB20det block and transfer everything over. I'm not after any power gains anyway, just thought if I could do it for no extra cost why not seen I have a Rb25 block. I'll plan for a complete RB25 build up on the block then after I get my RB20 running again. Cheers, Grippy

I have a RB25det block that I got for next to nothing and I would like to know if it is possible to fit the RB20det head to this block? Reason being I have a damaged RB20det block from my R32 but the rest of the motor is in tact. $$$ are a big issue and I have not yet torn down the RB20 to see what will fit an what won't. I would like to be able to fit my RB20 head with no variable cam timing if possible and use a RB25 crank to get the extra cubes. Hoping someone can shed some light on this before I spend money onthe RB25 block. Rgds Grippy

I am looking for a R32 GTSt 2 door 2wd shell. Compliance would be nice but will take any straight shell with or without. Can travel interstate for pickup. Rgds, Grippy Syd.

PM sent.

Looking to buy R32 GTS-t shell preferably in SYD but anywhere will do. Rgds, Grippy

Do it right or not at all!!! You will regret it otherwise. ECU re-map or upgrade and head to the dyno.

Sam (Dr Drift) tuned my R32 RB20 to 220rwkw without a hitch. Can easily tune up to whatever limits your bolt ons have. 230-240-250+ rwkw even over 300kw can be handled by the stock ECU. The only limit is your engine and mods (especially airflow meter). I have had no problems with mine and will always go back to Sam if I need more power. Would recommend to anyone. PowerFC can be tuned anywhere by anybody, that is the real advantage.

Current L2S. Grippy.

I'll come to the next supersprint in my GTS-t. Just let me know when it is coming up so I can prepare. Sorry I didn't know the last one was on. I hope I can be competitive, I run about 1.55's around the Creek. Cheers, Grippy

Remove your coil pack cover plate and start your car in the dark and rev it up. If the coil packs are leaking you will see the blue electrics all over the coil packs. This obviously means they are leaking. Nail polish is the go. I had it painted on a coil on a previous car and it lasted for 2 years. Coloured or clear, doesn't matter. It's a great insulator. I would double check the installation of your bleed valve also. Sometimes different brands connect in a different way. Read the instructions carefully to make sure it's all sweet.

I agree, especially being a R33. There must be hundreds of them out there in Skyline land.. grippy..

So sorry Mr education.... Best you don't assume nobody else here has mechanical experience. How well do you know me???? 4 years is such a long time now isn't it????? Tread carefully my friend... Go ahead and improve on a HKS internal wastegate, I would love too see that. Maybe the wastegate is not operating correctly but that is not a design fault..