jarrod83

If your engine is still healthy, you may as well have some fun with her while shes running good. That being said, i gave up trying to break my 25 and went ahead with the conversion. I still drive 25s, but they don't interest me very much. I'm in the process of upgrading my 30 to a 34. Jarrod.

Hey Guys I thought I’d chime in with a picture i found ages ago when i was researching wmi, it’s one of those a picture tells a 1000 words... The only changes in blue yellow and green runs is they changed the ignition timing, which you can see from where the combustion pressure starts to increase. The timing with the water methanol injection turned on is somewhere between the yellow and red runs. It's clear with the water methanol injection turned on that your peak combustion pressure is reduced, whilst increasing the average combustion pressures and most likely the combustion pressure at the angle where peak torque is made during a combustion cycle. I also have the hfs-6 aquamist kit, if anyone has any questions, its been a while since i looked at the other kits, so I can’t quite remember all the reasons why i choose it over the other systems. It has a very quick response time, theres no overspray, you can measure flow, detect blockages and overflow, and can send a signal to ecu/ebc when the wmi kit is not working or turned off. I haven’t figured out the best way to set up the failsafe yet. It detects the duty cycle of your injectors and increases flow linearly with the injector duty cycle. You can also add in a map sensor signal so it can compensate the flow for increased boost. Im using a AIS 3 gallon tank, it was one of the neatest and tidiest tanks i could find, the wmi pump bolts up underneath it, making the install fairly tidy. http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com/p117/AIS-3-Gallon-Competition-Trunk-Mount-Water-Methanol-Injection-Tank/product_info.html For anyone who’s interested to know how much wmi they should be injecting, a aquamist site has this link on calculating the jetting: http://howertonengineering.com/tech-info/calculating-jetting/ Also anyone that’s considering what ratio to run, its usually considered that a 50:50 mix is the best, as its not flammable and you get a better cooling effect on the charge due to Daltons law of partial pressures. Simply you can cool the air down more with a mixture of 50/50 than just using straight water. Regards Jarrod

Yeh its still for sale

1300 power fc + datalogit

RB 25/30 JE forged pistons spool conrods rb26 bearings with annular groove nitto oil pump tomei pon cams with adjustable cam gears i port matched and tidied up the head and manifolds the intakes were ported slightly larger by lewis engines plazmaman plenum china spec 100mm cooler gt35r 0.82 with a 44mm tial wastegate mounted off the turbo exhaust manifold 6boost top mounted manifold lewis engines drift sump ross drift harmonic balancer 9:1 compression 22psi made 496.7 on pump 98 The setup was focused towards reponse moreso than max top end power making full boost by approximately 3400. On the dyno day when the boost started dropping off in the top end i rememebered i still only had the 7psi wastegate spring in from the run in tune. Will be going back shortly with the water/meth kit installed and a gtx35r to hopefully shoot for the 400rwkw mark and hopefully produce a good comparison of the two turbos.

Located in perth, still for sale

Hey Guys, sorry my msg box might of been full.. ive advertised the power fc on ebay now, heres the link http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/320777089015?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Jarrod

bump

Your dreaming Jason, lol Price Drop 1350 for power fc+ hand controller 1450 for power fc + hand controller + datalogit

Price drop 1500 for both or 1400 for the power fc by itself

i forgot to mention the power fc also has the hand controller

The pro version of the power fc pro has the ignition cut on the rev limiter instead of fuel, which is generally a bit safer on the limiter also has a launch control feature, in which you can set a max rpm that is active whilst the car isnt moving, use to be able to get about 0.8bar of boost at 3500RPM, was very good at launching the car Datalogit- Beige box early version Can have both for 1550 delivered No low ballers, i know the price is a little steep, but its a pretty rare version, its what i payed for it not so long ago and with the amount of tunes i have for it and the amount ive spent on the tunes i definitely wouldn't be selling it for any less. Cheers Jarrod

fk, cant believe it, but i primed the f*kker, started it, oil pressure just flicked straight up... besides opening the oil pump and filling it with vaseline i couldnt have done any more to prime it for pressure, cheers for all the input guys, wouldnt of attempted starting it without pressure without it. Jarrod

Yeh plugs are out.. im going to reprime it and bite the bullet and start it up, wish me luck Jarrod

so you couldnt get it to pump oil by priming it and cranking the engine?? You had to actually start it to get it going? I completely removed the oil cooler and standard oil filter backing plate and left just an oil filter using the rb30 threaded fitting. Drained the oil out of it and pumped it all back in through the 1/8th bsb thread on the side of the block next to the oil filter.. cranked it over and still nothing. I might pump the oil back through the fitting and check that its getting to the head and try starting it for 5 seconds.

has anyone successfully gotten a sump off without removing the engine? im thinking it may just be easier to bite the bullet and remove the gearbox and engine if it turns out to be the problem.

didnt put in any lube or vaseline, was just told to prime it by filling the pump out section with oil and crank it back a few times. The only thing im a bit sketchy on is oil pickup gasket, i think i may have used the old rb25 one as i found what looks like the new one on the floor when i was cleaning up and i had already dropped the engine in. If theres no other possible causes i may have to "attempt" to drop the cross member and remove the sump and try replacing it. I was kind of hoping that i may of had two new ones floating around as ive used a fair few gasket kits.

Hey Guys, finishing my rb30 rebuild, it has a nitto oil pump, primed the system by filling up the outside hose of the oil cooler and cranking the engine backwards until it had sucked up a good 500ml of oil, left the hose off and cranked it over. Absolutely none of the oil comes back out the hose almost like its draining straight through the pump, any ideas?? could the gasket that goes between the block and the oil pickup be leaking causing the oil to drain out of the oil pickup? or an airleak elsewhere on the pump causing the problem? Jarrod

Hey it is a vspec 2, i attatched a print screen of the results of your vin number

My crank collar with a nitto pump had a clearance of 6 thou and 7 thou, i was a little concerned as well so i messaged nitto and was told it was within the allowable clearances for there pump

What about the accel enrichment from jumping on the throttle? plus who stomps on he throttle in 3rd at 60kmph at 2800 RPM.. alright i suppose there is those that arent terribly bright.. but its alot smarter to drop back to second.. usually when im below 70 i drop to 2nd and above 75-80 i go to third.. usually try to get above 4000.. but i do have a gt35r, someone with a smaller turbo might run into problems we dont. also i have some 4th gear log runs on another pc from 20kmph to 200.. i can show you it doesnt go anywhere near it..

Cheers for that Elite, It’s pretty responsive considering the power its making and the boost it’s making it at, is Noels boost curve any more responsive? Jarrod

You could reach a descent compromise, dont push the afrs or timing with a bit of care not to stomp your foot down from light cruise or to labour your engine up while going up hills, all should work well. I only tuned the first 3 rows of 20 and lightly touched on the forth row, 5th n 6th is where i go to if i give it any more than light cruising I only touched the rpm columns that the car sits in at 80 and a 100 in 5th gear and smoothed out the adjacent cells so there wasn't any large jumps It only interpolates with adjacent cells, so anything more than maintaining constant speed it would easily move two or more cells away, you never cross through those cells rapidly after youve stomped your foot down, with a bit of care not to stomp your foot down within that small range you should be fine, i wouldnt see why mild overtaking would be a problem.

my tacho in my r33 is out a good 300-400rpm when i compare it to the power fc or the blitz, makes it hard to judge when to change gears

HP only costs you more fuel when you do mods like cams that causes you to lose effeciency down low.. i think its because they have a larger overlap they have more unburnt air/fuel mixture go out the exhaust valve before it shuts, i dont think i have ever had a shop thats tuned my economy driving or least done it very well as it usually comes out with afrs in the light cruise region of the map from 13.7s-14.3s. I have read that 16:1 is the afr that gives you the best fuel mileage but i wouldnt know if its safe to run, i went for a long country drive a while ago with my rb30 and wasnt going to make it home so i dragged out the laptop and adjusted the afrs out to mid 15s, got home easily and barely moved the fuel gauge