jarrod83

yeh it has a restrictor in it the lines are rubber, the bigger ones are water lines so they will probably need replacing and the smaller ones are fuel lines I'll set up the catch can tomorrow when the shops are open to vent to amto and see how that goes, i didnt try that yet because the catch can hadnt even collected a drop of oil yet

heres sum catch can pics, its sorta hard to make out, its a lil dodge spec aswell, i never got around to tidying it up as i was pretty sure it wasnt the problem, basically the breather that comes out the engine goes into a smaller tube that goes to the catch can thats located under the front bar just out of the engine bay as my engine bay is pretty crowded with abs crap.. then goes to the air intake pipe getting bulk oil thru all my piping.. all but the catch can piping..

the catch can hasnt even collected a drop of oil tho.. tho its a pretty basic setup, havent got any of that iron wool inside it

done a dry compression test and they were all 130-140.. except the last 2 which were 120s... but the battery was starting to get a little flat and not pushing over as fast

Hey guys, got a troubling dilemma with my turbo atm and not sure whats the best action to figure out the problem, i have a gt35r runnin about 18psi... one night i took it out for a run came home and found oil had leaked out of the pod filter from the air intake and there was a puddle of oil in the intake piping, ever since then it has a burning oil smell and whenever u boost it blows smoke out the exhaust I've tried some of the basic things like changing the air filter made sure the oil return pipe wasnt blocked etc.. is there anything else worth trying that i may of missed i pulled the turbo off and took it to mtq oneday and they did a quick visual inspection, and claimed it looked and felt fine and it has no play in it.. so its probably not the seals?! and claimed that these turbos were virtually unbreakable and that it would be something else in the car causing the problem, and of course all the mechanics i talk to say it will be the turbo So im wondering is there anything left i can try that may be causing it.. and would i be better of taking the car into somewhere to get checked out or sending the turbo off to get properly inspected?? also the engine crank case vent? is that the cam breather that runs from the top of the engine to my catch can then back into the air intake pipe? Cheers for any advice Jarrod

i have a late model 33, so i only have a r33 power fc map, but it runs 34 style exhaust cams n doesnt take much timing so just trying to get an idea of how mcuh timing the 34s run on boost

Hey guys just need a power fc neo map to see what sort of ignition timing they run could yous send it to [email protected] Cheers

Hey guys solved the problem cheers for the input, would of been alot easier if the wastegates come with instructions... never removed any of the springs from the wastegate, opened it up took out the big spring and all good now

my wastegate is mounted off the turbo's exhaust housing, was told it offers better boost control the boost starts building at little after 4000 and slowly builds to abit over 5psi then the big boost hit kicks in n it jumps straight upto the 17psi, its a bit hard to tell if it spikes to 17 or if it holds there cause it all happens pretty quick I'll hook the wastegate to the cooler piping later when it cools down abit, what sort of boost should it hit when its set up like that

pretty sure its set up right as per the blitz sbc manual, the IN goes to the cooler piping, same as the B chamber, n chamber A goes to the OUT on the sbc, the tial instructions are similar car has only been mildy tuned, slightly on the rich side of things mid 13s on light cruise, and low 11s on boost, havent tuned it up any more because the new 5 puk clutch is already slipping and i cant turn the boost down starts coming on boost around 4000 and kicks in low 5000rpm... its more when im at say 5000 revs in 3rd n i put the foot down it takes a far few seconds to come on boost mods plazmaman plenum, nismo 740 injectors, power fc pro, nismo fuel pump, 6boost manifold, tial waste gate, gt35R 0.82 turbo, 3.5inch dump n front pipe n cat 3inch back from there

Hey guys, have just gotten a new top mounted manifold kit with an external wastegate its a gt35r 0.82 on a rb25 with a 44mm tial wastegate being controlled by a blitz sbc i colour No matter the settings on the controller the boost is very laggy comes on very late, the ebc doesnt have any control on the boost ive tried a few things and I'm stumped.. I've tested the wastegate with 25psi into chamber A and it opens, but air comes out the sides of the wastegate im not sure if thats normal?? i am also having a problem when i put the clutch in the car stalls.. i have a gfb plumback on the car and i thought with it plumbacked it was meant to stop the stalling issue? anyway any help with the problems would be greatly appreciated Jarrod

The first kit that got sent out got lost in transit apparently, then the second one i decided to add on the turbo blanket, and since i had the wastegate custom mounted of the exhaust housing, they had to send the exhaust housing to the place that makes the blankets to custom make it, and they sent them seperate to save time, as i had already been waiting 2 months =/

Hey, i bought a turbo kit about 10 weeks ago n i finally received it yesterday, but the exhaust housing had to be sent to people that make the exhaust turbo blankets to make a custom one, and the turbo was posted without the exhaust housing and subsequently suffered a slightly bent fin with a few tiny cracks stemming from it, they dont run very far I would just like to know the seriousness of the bent fin, will it effect its performance, durability and would it need to be sent back Cheers Jarrod

Can you afford to buy a gtr and do work to it? If thats the case get the gtr, otherwise you can still get gts-ts pretty damn quik, stik a rb30 under it, thatll smooth out the big injectors and cams heaps of torque off boost aswell.. After the amount I've spent on a totally stock car to do up everything outside of the engine.. i think around the 16-17 mark, could be more you lose track of all the little bits you spend.. id say its much easier to buy one already modded and keep some money left over for a rainy day

he implied other jap racing teams aswell "Mines or MCR or other jap racing GTR teams?" i think you missed my whole point a old ass skyline bak in the 90s has a lap time 4 secs slower than the v8 record..im pretty sure the m speed are shitloads faster than those old ass 32s n weigh less The m speed is alot faster than the mines... you couldnt even compare them.. mines weighs 1450 with 600ps at the fly.. as i said yesterday the m speed if full carbon fibre everything n weighs in at 1170 with shitloads more power n weighs almost 200 kilos less than the hi octance car, hopefully when they build a better car from what they learnt at tsukuba, they may start putting down some better times here in australia, but until then that car is a shitload slower than the m speed, the m speed just out corners it something fierce

anyone happen to know if the wikipedia lap records for bathurst are up to date?? Development V8 Supercar Lap Record: 2:10.1022 - Dean Canto (Ford BA Falcon) Group A Lap Record: 2:14.50 - Mark Skaife (1991 - Nissan Skyline GT-R) cause if they are.. then i wouldn't say the gtrs are alot slower, thats a pretty good time condsidering how long ago it was... anyway i just wanted to compare the australian gtr's to a japanese one.. the hi octane r32 gtr weighing in the 1400s went over to tsukuba and layed down a time of 59.666, okay thats his first time there and could improve it abit, but the m speed r34 gtr car weighing in at 1170 put down a 54.48 on the same day, that thing is response machine comparing to a v8 supercar that has to have a minimum weight of 1355, n makes just over 600bhp, which the m speed would easily make.. at alot less weight with the awd.. safe to say it be lapping v8s all over again? in all fairness tho, the m speed doesnt have restrictions and probably has had a shitload more money spent on it, but that thing would "corner like electricity"

can i ask does the rear of ur car always have a fuel sorta smell.. cause im having a similar problem.. when i fill it up it overflows.. and it always a fuel sorta smell to the rear of the car n also get terrible fuel mileage.. usually around 250kms/tank anyway im going to have a look at some of the suggestions tomorrow and see if i can fix the problem

after seeing the r35 gtr at power cruise and the purple r34 gtr chew up all the big block v8s that pulled up next to them on the straights.. i think its safe to say we can close the book on this arguement.. if thats not enough maybe have a look at some of the gtr lap times on the japan tracks compared to cars that weigh less n have more power

ahh i bought my datalogit second hand and it said he had the serial to register it but i never received it =( i have got a couple spread sheets verse boost of the net but they are pretty off the mark id say for a rb25, so if you could help us out with that URAS I'd appreciate it Sweet i just worked out how to modify that excel program so it can output data that we can paste into straight into datalogit.. just made another tab that you paste your current afr correction into it then times it by the percentage the afr is out by.. too easy, amazed how easy they made this excel it literally took me 5 mins to learn

Is there a way to input data quickly using the correction map, since we cant recalculate our base map to 1's makes the manual task of changing them all abit tedious... and does anyone have a good desired afr correction map for rb's Cheers

im not saying dont do the clutch im just saying its probably not even slipping yet.. and hes not even making descent power yet 10 psi isn't even that much boost once you start going past 12 psi theres lots of parts at the end of their life and limits... fuel pump, injectors, afm.. maybe he should change all them before he gets a full 3 inch and ups the boost to 10psi

yeh im using the same sorta setup except its a innovative w/b... only thing is all my numbers came back pretty rich.. but on the dyno the log shows it runnin pretty lean.. but the weird thing is my car always smells like its runnin abit rich So im just not sure of the accuracy of the numbers or perhaps my cords are abit long =P

the clutch go a 5puk exedy good for 300rwkw... little difficult to drive at first but is light and loves getting dropped hard mid 400s from slide and easy to install yourself, if you run into any troubles give us a message.. just make sure you have the clutch centred... i used some dowel(i think its 16mm) with some tape.. and jack the engine up abit makes it alot easier to get the gearbox back in... not that hard saves yourself a easy 500 dollars for an install you really do need 4 jack stands tho.. i disagree tho full 3 inch exhaust first.. up the boost abit and see how it goes.. a mate of mine's stock clutch lasted him a year like that.. mine lasted me 2 months but i do alot of burnouts n drop it alot.. but once it starts slippin abit you can just baby it until you have the money for the 5 puk =D

r32 driver where did you learn maths first guy got it spotttttttt onnn 1hp is 745.7( 1kw = 1.34102hp) watts but in engineering i usually round it up to 746 but using 745.7 watts it works out to be 253.45313hp haha fullsick26 i just worked out my nokia has a converter maddd n i found the calculator lol

hard to make sense of all that, but if its just the rubber vacuum hose thats broken just go up n buy another meter of it at your local auto store and any other connections you might need, ive replaced all mine as they go hard and crack