jarrod83

i think he means how long will the engine last... not the turbo?? in that case how longs a piece of string?? cause it can put out lots of power for a short time boost would also depend on the size of the turbo.. but id say youd be able to put out 280-300rwkw somewhat reliably.. well it should last more than a year id say around 16psi... 18 pushin it... i dont think you would get to much more of a gain pushing that turbo on much more boost than that but im not a expert on turbos =P

id recommend one of those front/dump pipes in one with the open bellmouth, just with the amount of problems ive seen people have with the split ones not being able to control boost the cat you can either go a cheap cheap crappy one like those 3inch x forces.. with a crappy core.. they are alrite for the 175 you pay for them.. i been using one for a while started off alright but i think its a little blocked up now.. or you could spend a little extra a get a metal core one for 400ish, lots of companies sell them.. catco, x force, metalcat, magic.. take your pick they all flow pretty well and all claim to outflow the others, in the end i bought a 3.5inch xforce coz it was the only one i could find in stock for that size with flanges fuel pump those walbro ones are the bottom of the barrel but do the job alrite, i think they are 170ish from slide, but i would probably lean towards a bosch one either the 040 or 044, if your confident with some simple wiring they are pretty easy to install.. they are around the 230mark or if you want a direct replacement ( comes with new cradle, wiring and filter ) go for the tomei/nismo ( same pump) i think slide sells them for 430 but theres some places like nengun that sell them in the high 300s.. maybe try greenline

Yeh i agree with lunjiaow, most of the tuning places told me to get spark plugs/ fuel pump before a tune otherwise its a waste of time tuning it.. i already has alot of the basic mods.. As for exhaust i already had bought a full exhaust before my car landed on the boat When you go from full 2.5inch to full 3 inch in one hit.. man what a difference until this day its been the biggest increase in power ive had, but thats partly because on stock boost you get a few more psi out of the car I was always told not to go those apexi avcr's by a few places.. they use the same boost control bit as the boost control kit on the apexi power fc's and theres a reason no one uses them, thats going on xspeed info anyway.. they also told me my car couldnt have a gtr diff, but yeh id recommend a blitz or or a greddy boost controller. the hks ones are good aswell but expensive, some of those turbosmart ones are good aswell i got my car tuned by top racing n with a power fc i made 285rwhp on 12psi go the power fc lol

i gave kermit a msg, I'll probably get some pics for cypher once i finish getting it installed and see if i can get a quote from that where is sanders racing.. i googled it, couldnt find it has anyone got a number also where is this go parts.. are they open on the weekend

Hey guys im installing a high mount turbo and and front facing plenum and need a place to make up custom intercooler piping, custom air intake, and a 3.5inch dump/front, i have a 3.5inch cat and need from the cat to the resonator to be replace from 3inch to 3.5inch as stainless steel need a good performance shop SOR that can do a good job at a reasonable price I have rang around abit but been quoted some stupid quotes... have tried exhaust torque in bibra lake, but they kept giving me quotes on the whole exhaust system, gave up tryin to explain i only need parts of it made, called cypher but they want to look at the car before they will quote a price which is abit hard when it needs to be toed =P also tried top racing.. most of these places have quoted in the 2.5-3 mark which to me seems a little high.. in regards to piping whats cheaper for the intercooler.. stainless or aluminium.. also is it worth going stainless for the dump n front.. or be easier/cheaper to go mild steel Cheers for any advice guys Jarrod

itll flow better make more power, probably get abit more boost on the stock solonoid if you still run it, sound nicer and be louder.. if you get a half descent cat aswell it would more than likely have better emissions aswell as your old cat would more than likely be a fair bit past its used by date those cheap 3 inch xforce cats for 175 do the job for a budget job.. you can get better ones with metal cores that flow more for around the 400 mark a full 3 inch exhaust will be the best bang for buck upgrade youll ever get from your car

you should probably hold the tune off until its not spiking any more, they do run the tune pretty rich when it first comes on boost so you could probably get it tuned if you really wanted to, can you not just invest in a good boost controller? if its not your dump pipe/waste gate then it will be your manual boost controller, mine always spiked until i got my blitz sbc

no shit aye even when ur sure its not a fuse it pays to check only reason i even checked the fuse was cause the power fc wasnt saving settings and i remember a blown fuse is a common cause of that

couldnt sleep so i went thru the entire car checking everything =P found a blown fuse swapped it with the defogger... n she started didnt even think to check the fuses as the standard ecu started the car fine

What a sad day =( a week or 2 away from recieving my new turbo kit n i recieved my z32 afm, n i drew up a wiring diagram for a electrician mate to wire up so i could keep both plugs of the afms so i could use one or the other So he connected the 12V power wire from the car to the signal wire.. took it for a spin with the standard afm.. sweet.. swapped afms plugged in the z32 n it came up 5112mV's on the airflow on the power fc.. 5 hours later worked out the power fc was semi dead.. it still turns on and all just wont start the car and the 12V wire to the afm is only putting out 6.8vs, and one of the relays in the back of the car continues to click on and off standard ecu car starts fine.. and the relay makes no sounds... so if anyone is a whizz with electronics.. or would know a place that is either familiar with the power fc or possibilibly might be able to fix it plzzz let us know!!

yeh i didnt realise it was for a gtr when i wrote that Nissan Skyline R32-R33 GTST & R32GTR Heavy Duty 5 Puk Button clutch kit, $439 Heavy Duty Cushion Button clutch kit, $445 ORC Single Plate clutch kit ORC 409D-01N (400ps) (Includes flywheel), $1229 Nissan Skyline R33-R34 GTR & R34 GTT (Late R32 GTR) Heavy Duty 5 Puk Button clutch kit, $739 ORC Single Plate clutch kit ORC 409D-01N (400ps) (Includes flywheel), $1229 its funny that the exedy 5 puk is 300 dollars dearer for a gtr... but the orc uses the same part number for gtst n gtr =P here the page for slides clutches.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ch...l&hl=clutch

also you got a gtr? these are gts-t's clutches

seems to be 3 configurations between having a dampier( dampener?) , silent type, and high disk, i would say the high disk type would probably be the strongest, have you considered an exedy clutch from slide, they havent got the lightened fly wheel but are half the price

thats strange im pretty damn sure a intercooler is the same both ways around .. probably more likely you had a loose pipe or something?

It doesnt matter what way the intercooler pipe is.. try a good boost controller, an electric one... not apexi either a blitz, hks or greddy could be the dump pipe but it sounds like youve had 2 dumps pipes on and the boost played up with booth?? was the first one stock? can you chek to see if the actuator can open fully with the dump pipe on?

you can clean them with contact cleaner, theres also a diy thread around about how to resolder the point inside the afm incase they have dry solder or have gotten lose.. pretty simple and easy to eliminate or you could buy a z32 one but once you start replacing parts it gets expensive =P how low is the fuel tank atm?

i agree the gt30R is the better balance for response and performance.. but it does come down to how much power you want.. id say ~300ish rwkw go the gt30r any more then go the gt35r

try ebay they usually go for around 1300ish and quite common.. and they are definately the same ive used a mates power fc from a series 1 on my series 2 when we were troubleshooting this fuel problem.. there was also a mob selling them brand new pretty cheaply but then they jacked up there prices.. heres the link for them http://www.directtuning.com/store/showcate...&OrderBy2=0

Im buying a 6boost manifold atm with a gt35R (0.82) atm and will be expecting full boost around 4300, a little laggy for the rb25 but i am planning to convert to a rb30 down the track so its not a bad option, if you want in a few weeks when its installed up i'll let you know how it is on the street

Well when i first imported my car, after i got it complied before it got number plates me n my mates took my car for a spin n parked up at a nice park.. cops drive by and notice it doesnt have any plates and pull up, to enquire who the car belonged to, I quickly owned up to it being mine and some fast yes sir no sir's got it down to being able to toe my car home but not before they noticed my friends 180sx with bald tyres and yellowed that anyway after some more discussion they decide to let me drive home.. with them tailing very closely behind me waiting for me to do something wrong, i swear i have never driven so perfectly in my life, get home and to their amazement they hope out of their car claiming that was the best driving they had seen in their life anyway thats about where the goodluck with my car ended =P got it road registered got pulled up about 6 times in the first week of driving it which wasnt that often, i swear they must look out for new plates or something and pick on them.. one of the times i got pulled up was a classic by a officer claimin he was watering his garden off duty on a corner and seen me "exiting a round about at high velocity" and was just giving me a friendly warning not to drive like a dick shortly after that i lost my licence for a fairly long time and have done almost every bolt on mod possible since.. so itll be interesting how things go when i get back on the road, ill have to try out the "yes officer the rb30det with the top mounted gt35R with the 3.5inch exhaust is how this car was produced" line

Ill try and work out how to give her a msg to find out what she needed to replace.. but i have to disagree with you cerci back when i first imported my car when she was near new like.. the active lsd was a joy to drive.. its hard to describe but you could thru it so hard into a corner n it drift lovely.. and when cornering hard it seem to power the outside wheel more n get you around more easy.. but if u do just lock it, its going to lose that capability hopefully my cousin pikd up this wreck r33 for a engine swap his doing and i was hoping to pick the diff up from that.. but i want to at least attempt myself to see if i can get this diff working before i junk yard a 5000 diff ¬_¬ they do a good job tho at preventing troubleshooting of this diff =P Cheers for the advice tho guys

yeh ill be interested to hear more about this, sounds like a good idea.. maybe theres another way to pump up the pressure with the use of a switch to turn it from one wheel to lockd.. definately sounds like its not a problem with the clutch packs themself slipping.. either a sensor or pressure problem.. going to take it for abit of a spin tonight to see if theres an improvement since i flushed out the hydraulic fluid from the diff

fineline can you find out if it has the same clutch packs as the normal gtr diffs for me, i have changed my fluid on mine completely using both the bleeders..also what sort of condition are your clutch packs in? Im also tryin to get mine working again, from what i can tell the lock between left and right wheels may be pressure dependant, meaning when there is no pressure all the power goes to the left wheel and as pressure is feed into the right side of the diff the power is transferred to the right wheel, and varying the pressure into the diff varies the torque distribution .. im basing this on that theres only one oil pressure feed into the diff and a feed that links them together.. It's really just a guess i may have to pull it apart to understand it more.. only other way to control the torque split would be electronically, It's stupid the Japanese didnt make no v-spec manuals I do agree with beer baron tho the unpredictability makes It pretty hard sometimes, when your drifting right it over steers heaps and to the left it under steers so much you end up doing a 3 lane drift

yeh i was aware of that... which is why im really tryin to get it the a-lsd workin.. otherwise i was going to find a r33 being wrecked and hopefully replace the diff centre and the axles... i mentioned it a few posts back..

i was leaning towards the 2 way cause i thought the lock on de-acceleration would mean like when ur drifting and u take ur foot off for a split second it stays 2 wheels instead of going back to 1 wheel? are they both the same for like doing u turns n turnin tight circles?