jarrod83

mine still does lovely burnouts but it does feel like the right wheel isnt quite spinnin as fast as the left, mainly plays up trying to drift.. even when its wet it doesnt feel right anymore other day i was readin thru all the a-lsd threads n noticed someone mention a second bleeder on the diff, ive since located it on the diff and drained out all the old fluid, will have to take it for a spin and see if theres an improvement but i'm not holding my breathe.. not looking forward to ripping it out n finding out how much i have to replace to stick a standard one in there, im hoping just the axles and the diff.. probably will take it in to a diff shop for an inspection of the clutch plates and see if i can come up with a solution.. so how are you finding the 1.5 way?, i dont know if i want to go a 1.5 or a 2 way

the diffs from the gtr v-spec that have 2 clutches in them, I know alot of people have had problems to get them working again, but beer baron hinted that you could get clutch upgrades for them, I have had a look around done some reading and havent had much luck .. =( "the $200 clutch upgrade from nismo turns them into what is basically a nismo mech diff"

Sorry to hi-jack the thread guys, I have a series 2 r33 gts-t with the active lsd diff option and since ive upped the power it seems to want to open wheel more often than not depending on what way your turning, I wasnt aware there was a clutch upgrade option, nor can i find any available from the japanese sites.. could someone point me in the right direction to where these are available and maybe give me an idea with what sort of power they will hold, my next tune im hoping for 320rwkw and i dont want to spend money fixing the diff if its going to break again rather soon.. but i would much prefer this diff over a 2 way as they handle very well through corners Cheers Jarrod

walbro costs about 160, flows 255lph uses standard cradle, standard filter, standard wiring and requires about of soldering and mucking around to make it fit in the standard cradle, not bad if you get a genuine one but its probably worth paying the little extra for the bosch tomei costs about 429,i think theres a few places that sell them cheaper in the 390s, flows 248lph, comes with its own cradle, wiring, and filter its simply pull in pull out, very reliable designed to run of the 12v instead of the 14v the walbro uses, i find it better than walbro i had but pretty pricey hope that helps

Heres something a little easier to spot... such as on a series 2 the skyline written under the boot lid is the same colour as the car, on a series 1 its sorta clear the rear wing on a series 2 is usually the square box one... and the series one have the low rounded one the series 2 headlights are more see through and more aggresive aswell as a more aggresive bonnet hope that helps... n heres a probally dumb question but why cant you just check the year?

sorry to hear the news thats some real F@#$d up luck.. some ppl are so gutless =( can they touch up in small spots with black to make it not so obvious and costly until the panels can be resprayed properly?

yeh thats a very strange dump indeed.. do you know the reason of the flat bit along where the front pipe usually is.. im guessing maybe so you dont bottom out over bumps and down curbs?? i bottomed out my 3incher that way =D how many inches does the dump/front pipe work out to be through the round bits? and is there any other reasons for the strange shape

nah.. m for m-spec.. n l is for active lsd.. arent stageas the same as r33 rb25dets with more restrictive exhausts and air intakes? i suspect i wont get this question answered until i open her up.. what sort of timing do most r33s use on around 12psi of boost

would depend on how much boost your planning on running, i know if you run to much boost they start to valve float, the de's are like 39Lbs and the dets are like 42(or 43?)Lbs, i can't remember the exact limits on boost for each of them im pretty sure its around the 20psi mark or just under.. hopefully someone else can add to this what sort of power are you aiming for?

sorry to bring this thread up again guys but i have read all the forums i can i was still after abit more information on the subject, this engine has got me stumped.. compared to the other rb25det engine maps i have seen it is alot different.. the timing map is very retarded the highest timing it has on the map is 35.. n on full bost it runs a timing of 10 and this engine still managed to make 285rwhp on 12 psi with stock turbo n stock engine so if anyone knows any definate differences, i'd really appreciate it or if that amount of timing is normal Cheers Jarrod

im pretty sure that no rb25de's came with vct, im also pretty sure the more power you make the less useful the vct is, so with some descent cams it shouldnt make any difference its mainly for some extra down low response, of hand the only differences i can think of are the different compression ratios, a few weaker components in the head like the springs.. and quite possibly weaker pistons and rods etc.. have you maybe considered the rb25de head on a rb30e ? they are pretty cost effective and strong

You know you drive a skyline when your much more likely to lose your licence than crash

once everything is unbolted the fuel rail pulls out easy enough.. the injectors are quite hard to remove tho from the rail i was using a screwdriver to lever them out but than found a small socket n a hammer while having sum1 hold the rail to be much easier.. but your probally not going to want to reuse those injectors a small tip tho when undoing the screws that hold the capping onto the injectors get a philips head screw driver that fits into them well and give them a pretty hard hit with the hammer to make undoing the screw a little easier... then get a vice grip lockd onto the top of the screw driver n push down as hard as you can n turn with the vice grips.. then throw away those gawd awful screws and get some M5x16mm high tensile bolts from bunnings =) if you do manage to round out a screw just hacksaw blade in a slit n hammer the corner with a flat bladed screw driver until the seal breaks then its easy to turn other than that its pretty easy theres a DIY guide here for a 25, they have pretty similar intakes so shouldnt be to different http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...lling+injectors just dont go dropping the plastic spacers between the fuel rails and the manifold.. i was warned and still managed to drop 2 so pull them out before u move the rail

well vct has a third oil feed thru to the head from the block.. i think all the rb25s,26s and 30s all have the 86mm bore with different stroke lengths? also the 26 block is more rigid than the other blocks what sort of car are you building up?

sorry to hear the news, was just a couple weeks ago your car was playing up with the lack of power... could they be related?

Hey guys well i picked up my car today from another tuner in the battle to try and solve my afr problem and he explained to me that i had a series 3 rb25det engine similar to the neo?! based on the crank angle sensor the car has claimin it was from a r34 gt-t and saying they run different cam forks that fit into the sensor.. does that mean it would have variable cams on the exhaust side aswell?? he also said he had to run alot less timing on it due to it being a series 3 engine.. Can anyone shed some light on the subject... oh its a november 97 car aswell Cheers Jarrod

yeh thats probally me i always go down beenyup on a tuesday n friday night to work as i live in aubin grove.. has it got a full kit.. *sigh* at all these break ins in atwell im feeling pretty weary leaving my car parked in atwell at work these days.. next time someone spots these guys should call us all up and solve this problem

hey dont knock atwell i lived there for 14 years never got broken into once caught some kids doing sneaks in our cars once though .. could be lil punk kids going around doing sneaks went to steal the stereo n got lucky with the unbolted seats or could be professionals tho they dont get spooked to easy and you are on one of the main roads, them or someone they knew could of taken notice of it.. id recommend tho if its someone in atwell go speak to some of those punk little kids riding around on bikes.. im sure if it was someone in atwell they would of high noted themselves to their friends dunno what happened to atwell tho use to be such a nice area then a crime wave hit it, then a bunch of punk lil kids crept up from no where lookin like south lake rejects and taggin up everything nice n clean to try n be cool..

only seen a few jobs by them.. they usually pretty well fitting.. tidy n paint matched nicely in.. tho the ive only seem them do white n black cars.. my next kit ill probally do fully through them alot easier..

if you wanna buy it over east n get it painted n fitted somewhere else www.carmate.com.au has them for $396.95 undelivered, they are about the cheapest ive seen online, probally work out alot cheaper than the 1100 odd the spoiler shop will qoute you painted n fitted

mechanics these days aye.. so how is it driving now alot smoother? how do u know its missing power.. is it boostin to the same amount of boost? is it driving smoothly?

the only noise my brass button makes is when u try to engage it at to low revvs, it makes a clunking noise other than that its lovely n silent.. definately sounds like they messed something up maybe apart of the clutch hitting on the puks.. im no clutch mechanic tho but it could account for the noise and power loss, they should of test driven it and noticed that, aswell as you should of gotten half way down the street turned around n taken it back my cars left me broke, many of weekends.. the joys of driving a import lol

Hey i have one of those clutches.. mine got pretty loud one day after a lot of launches sounded like alot of sound or something grinding up.. your suppose to run them in gently for 500kms before any harsh driving or high revv drops.. that may account for the noise as for the lack of power something definately sounds amiss.. you should probally try not to drive it until you can take it back on monday incase you damage something ... does it still drive smoothly.. and stuttering? is it still hitting the same boost? maybe the noise could possibly be another problem? hope u get it sorted Cheers Jarrod

Theres a consolidated workshop thread in the wa section.. saying that everyones going to have their own opinions on different workshops based on their experiences Cyphers pretty well priced but due to their lack of a dyno ive had problems when they have tuned for me not being able to solve problems on other ppls dynos due to their lack of tools.. they are located in myaree near x-speed Tenegah are some descent guys, pretty cluey and have their own dyno they are all the way in wangara tho Top Racing are in carisle and im pretty sure they have their own dyno aswell, i havent been there personally but i know some ppl that have had some descent hp engines built there and they seem to know their stuff, spent abit of time talkin to the owner he seems very helpful plan to go in their soon to ask him some more questions theres a C-red out near cannington, i think they have their own dyno, havent heard too much about them then theres a overboost and hyperdrive out in malaga i think it is dont quote me on that, havent had much experience with them hope some of that helps... ive heard good and bad things about almost every one of them tho, I think weve all had the experience in perth of not quite getting what you payed for all i can suggest is shop around and ask alot of questions Cheers Jarrod

yeh im having this problem aswell finding detailed information on how to do the rb30 conversion with a rb25det head, keeping the VCT working, ive read a good chunk of the big rb30 conversion thread and a lot of the little one n theres lots of brief descriptions on how to do it that arent that useful to me.. are there any detailed step by step instructions or a sequence of pictures that would better explain how its done, also it would seem that the allan reynolds twinvl big pond website that alot of people got their information from is no longer working Cheers Jarrod