jarrod83

Its probably a late series 1 with series 2 coilpacks..i dont think series 2 came out until early 96. But it does elimanate ignitors as they will be built into the coilpack.. you can check though by seeing if it has a box at the back of the coilpack cover. Maybe start with checking your spark plugs and gapping them down to 0.8mm or less, just grap some copper NGK BCPR6ES My friend also has yellow jackets and still gets misses, i still would recommend swapping them with someone that has working coilpacks to eliminate them as a suspect Jarrod

Also how much boost are you running? have you tried gapping down your spark plugs to 0.8mm? sometimes a bit less depending on the strength of your ignition system. Also what coilpacks did you get? Jarrod

model and year? if its a series 1 r33 it could be the ignitor packs or coilpack harness, id recommend posting up for someone in your area to swap ignition setups and diagnose whats actually broken than to aimlessly replace parts Jarrod

more info? lack of power may be rich and retard or an air leak.. air leak may explain why its running like shit and stalling.. car runs rich when cold partly countering the fact its getting more air under vacuum.. when it warms up its still getting more air but less fuel and stalls.. just a stab in the dark with the limited info u gave Jarrod

Yeh definately, i was also thinking that the up and down bits would be more important than the round and round bits.. just wasn't sure on whats considered reasonably balanced Jarrod

Hey guys, had my forged rb30det running nicely for 5000kms or so afterwhich the internal gears of the oil pump decided to let go. Unsure how long the engine was left running on the dyno with no pressure. The drained the oil had no chunks just a really fine silvery shine throug it, which is a worry considering the oil was changed the night before the dyno. I pulled the oil pump out and found quite a few small chunks of metal through the pump and on their way towards the oil filter. What sort of damage do i have to look for to inspect the head?? I am planning to pull the sump off and replace the bearings and crank, pull the head off and completely dissemble that and give that a clean, as well as clean the block as best as i can. My main question is if its definately advisable to completely strip the engine and send it off to have a bath, i was planning to just run thru a few containers of shit oil at idle to clean it out, assuming the oil filter would remove any bits of metal? I have been talking to a few people, who seem to think the engine was improperly balanced first time around, as my machine shop balanced the crank by taking weight of the flywheel and balancer. The balancer also had a bit of play on it on the crank which most likely contributed to the oil pump failure, not that spending most of its time redlined helped. So im getting the new crank balanced elsewhere with the new ross balancer and old flywheel. The pistons and rods are what im most confused about, the rods were measured to be within 1.5 grams of each other and the pistons were within a gram of each other. I was told that that was fine and the shop didnt balance them up, im now being told that for 8000rpms on a rb30 that this most likely needs improvement? Is there really much to be gained by completely dissembling them and getting them rebalanced? Also if the pistons and rods are pulled out.. assuming the rings and bores are still in good condition, can they be re-installed without getting new rings and re-honing the block?? I'm not trying to be cheap, just trying to spend my limited time and money on where its needed most =P Also trying to correct my excess oil to the head problem while the engine is apart, if you wanted to run a crankcase vent from the sump, where is the best place to connect the hose? im guessing it has to be above the level of the oil otherwise the air wouldnt travel up the hose? Kind Regards Jarrod

With regards to the oil restrictors in the rb25 standard, im not 100% sure to tell you the truth, i have heard conflicting sizes, most people say the two feeds are 1.5mm, but when comparing them to the size of my 1.5mm tomei restrictor they look slightly smaller, i have heard of ppl measuring them up to be 1.3mm, the vct feed i have heard it being anywhere from 1.5-1.9mm =/, when my engine is apart ill measure whats in there now As for the oil returns, you can see at the bottom of the block what holes go through to drain into the sump, so just follow them through to the head and youll know what to drill.. from memory im pretty sure all the small oil return holes are on the exhaust side, im going to attempt to get the two large holes at the back of the head drilled out more, i know a drifter that claims he drills them out a fair bit.. i only dremeled them up abit as i was afraid of hitting anything important.. ill let you know what gets done, but it wont be until i get my engine pulled back apart next holidays Jarrod

Forgot to mention, thats with a rear head oil drain and all of oil drains drilled out in the head only, and the two factory rear oil drains dremeled out a bit, as well as the smaller restrictors im going to try and stick a descent sized hose from my catch can to the sump to allow both oil to return and the blowby from the engine to escape without clogging up the oil returns in the head Jarrod

Johnno let us know how your engine goes, i think the rb30s have two 1.8mm standard, with leaving them standard i was still getting way too much oil to the head.. a bit of spirited driving would result in quite alot of oil coming out of the breathers... i think im going to 2x1.3mm this time Jarrod

Yeh all of the r33 power fc versions for the rb25det work for both series 1 and series 2, forgot to mention it also obviously has the hand controller Jarrod

Having to sell my power fc pro due to my oil pump letting go on the dyno requiring a rebuild whilst tuning my new Haltech ecu =/ The pro version of the power fc pro has the ignition cut on the rev limiter instead of fuel, which is generally a bit safer on the limiter also has a launch control feature, in which you can set a max rpm that is active whilst the car isnt moving, use to be able to get about 0.8bar of boost at 3500RPM, was very good at launching the car Price: 1400 delivered Datalogit- Beige box early version Price 250 delivered Can have both for 1550 delivered No low ballers, i know the price is a little steep, but its a pretty rare version, its what i payed for it not so long ago and with the amount of tunes i have for it and the amount ive spent on the tunes i definitely wouldn't be selling it for any less. Cheers Jarrod

How badly damaged is it? i managed to damage mine one night foolishly... rang up an engineering mob and they said they could fix it no worries, they said they could retap it and see if it will hold otherwise they could tap it out slightly bigger and make a new custom bolt, I'd recommend finding a good engineering place and doing something similar Jarrod

I think your interpretation of torque you feel and actually torque are two different things.. my rb30det makes more torque and power than my rb25det with the same gt35r turbo.. but because my rb25det kicked in so late and hard in the rpm range it felt like it pulled way harder when it kicked in, my rb30 it just so linear like the standard turbo/rb25 combo that you never really feel that huge pull to simplify it, you notice the change in acceleration a lot more than the maximum acceleration, the only time id say a stock wrx would pull more g's is when you dump the clutch off the line and the awd hooks up. In terms of different engines tho i seem to notice that engines with longer strokes have more torque, engines with squarer strokes rev more to make their power, engines with more cylinders seem to make more horsepower maybe because they have more valves compared to total engine size and lastly the wrx is a boxer engine which im pretty sure flow air less efficiently than the common style of engine. Maybe you should get some torque curves of the skylines and wrx's and compare them or just drag your friends car, at a guess id say you would most likely beat him. Jarrod

Im using this as a rough guide to my Jet calculation's http://www.howertonengineering.com/Jet_Calc.html Some information on the jet installation can be found here: http://www.howertonengineering.com/Kit_Install_FAQ.html "1) What size tap will I need for the jet? The jet ships with a jet adapter that is the actual unit that will be tapped into piping/manifold/etc. This adapter is 1/8"NPT. Therefore you will need a 1/8"NPT tap and 11/32 drill bit. If you wish tap for the jet and forego the adapter you will need a M8x.75mm tap and 7.2mm(9/32") drill bit. Please see question #2." Im looking at around the 500rwhp mark and probably going to go with the twin nozzle setup ( a 0.8mm and a 0.9mm ) I would decide on the tank size after you work out how many CC's you are going to be flowing a minute and how often you are going to be wanting to refill the tank at the track days.. im looking at the 10litre AIS tank, it looks quite presentable and has space for the pump to be mounted at the bottom of the tank and should hopefully be plenty for one tank of fuel. Hope that helps Jarrod

Just checked my photos of my parts i bought a year ago, and yeh they dont have spool written on them either.. didn't really concern me as much as the fact they didn't have any of the oil holes drilled in them either , but they seem to be doing well so far.. Jarrod

Tried this mod whilst doing my rb30 conversion, worked great, was very simple and tidy drilled out the oil returns in the head and ran a rear head oil drain kit but decided not to restrict or block the oil feeds in the block, but i seem to be losing a hell of a lot of oil still from the breathers. . . i was wondering if anyone has considered drilling out the 1.5mm oil in the brass plug to 2mm, in theory i would think the head would still have enough pressure to engage the vct but also drain more oil when the vct is off in the higher revv range has anyone tried this? or think it may work? Cheers Jarrod

abs diff?? Cheers Jarrod

I looked at the HSF-3, but i thought it didnt have the flow sensor which was an extra 300, turns out it does... so the HSV-6 doesn't offers anything more, just more adjustments, the HSV-6 flow control module does look like its been put together a little tidier, but thats about it. Do you know if the 160psi aquamist pumps are comparable to the 220 psi shurflo ones?? Theyre's other uses for water meth tho besides knife edged tunes.. even if u only get an extra 20rwhp, but manage to add a descent amount of safety into your tune provided the wmi kit is working properly.. thats a gain to me. Hell ive spent a hell of a lot more with alot less gained. Plus im pretty keen on the idea of keeping the intake temps down. Of all my friends that have nos, i dont think any of them use it any more, lol.. tho i can half see water meth ending up that way Any idea anyone on how long a 20litre tank will last before it goes bad?? will it keep in a good quality sealed container??. Id prefer to have a big tank that u fill up every few months. Cheers Jarrod

sorry if this is off topic guys, but do the BCPR7ES also have horrible cold starts with pump gas? Cheers Jarrod

Yeh, i was hoping that they did something other than prevent siphoning, but haven't been able to find anything that suggested they could hold back any significant pressure... was looking at twin 375cc's Price comparison: stage3 669, solenoid upgrade +50, safe injection +159 =878 HSF-6 899 not really a huge difference in price assuming theyre shipping rates arent extortion how much was your shipping Rekin At the end of the day, they look to be both great kits, i suppose it comes down to which ones offer the features you'll think you'll use/need more Jarrod

Some good info there Rekin, i originally dismissed Aquamist since i seen a guy flow test, what may of been of a older style pump and with a 2 nozzle setup could only get a max of 320cc/min, but i just seen on the site they claim the new pumps run out of flow at 1600cc.. i really do like their tanks.. but i dont like the idea of the pump always being on? or does it just come on n off enough to leave the lines pressurised. Snow Performance claim they're nozzles get good atomization, even at low pressures.. im not worried about the pressure when it starts, but im a little concerned when i lift off the throttle quickly and put it back on (like when your spinnin tyres playing with the throttle), that with the amount im planning to inject, i may end up with way more mixture in the engine than it can handle and end up with some serious hesitation issues.. has anyone had any problems with this?? The newer 220psi pumps from these companies are meant to hold a steady 220psi.. so theoretically they shouldnt pulse as much, not sure if they will still pulse when they are still starting up... Jarrod

yeh just looking through the rx7 forums, fark all they are using is a boost solonoid, a tank, a nozzle and some lines.. would any of you's be able to post up some pics of your setup's.. in particular how its mounted in the boot, and how you get the lines out the boot and into the engine bay... is there any tricks?? Cheers Jarrod

the pre-injection turbo dilemma does your head in.. some people say to direct a hollow cone shape spray cm's away from the centre of the compressor wheel.. interestingly enough, rice racing does the opposite and mount it back further and use a nozzle that sprays both liquid and air.. which is meant to split the droplets up much finer than the other sites claim they can do.. i think it basically works like a spray painters gun

thats an awesome result Michael, might be some hope for my gt35 0.82 to hit the 500hp mark after all.. im running some descent compression as well so my main concern has been detonation and the exhaust being able to flow enough ( they look tiny) Yeh i was reading a really long thread on aqua-mist about preturbo injection, had an awesome 30 page theory build up.. but a real lack of results to back it up at the end. Wouldnt mind giving it a go but i thought on the gt35r, that the turbine might be more on the restrictive side of things than the compressor, as it has a tiny exhaust wheel. Only problem with sticking it pre-turbo is your inter cooler loses some effeciency, not that it does much after a few squirts and everything is heat soaked Yeh i have been reluctant to consider it, but my car seems to be a little on the knock happy side of things, figured i could buy it and test out how good the safe injection is at triggering low flow on a already safe map and go from there. Jarrod

What sort of nozzle sizes are you's running? 360-370rwkw from a gt30r is a fair effort.. you sure you dont mean a gt35r? So no one runs the safe injection?? im probably a little bit on the paranoid side of things, i know the systems are generally very reliable.. but after a good read of the snow performance and aquamist forums there has been quite a few ppl that have had clogged nozzles, snapped lines and nozzles popping out (depending on your setup).. which it also detects for overflow too, me an extra 159USD for some added safety is pretty cheap compared to what my engine costs, wouldnt mind getting some opinions though if its a pile of junk or actually works. Jarrod