jarrod83

that was from the haynes vl manual yeh the top and second ring gaps for the gtr are pretty large... .24-.34 and .42-.57 but the rb25 only has .21-.38 and .18 to .44 when i built my rb25 with cp forged pistons and rings.. all the ring gaps ended up pretty huge.. all 20 thou plus.. and all a fair few thou bigger than the ones i calculated it required based on the bore size, blows a bit of steam out the breather on the dyno ( while it did at the 1200km).. but doesnt seem to burn any oil.. might of sealed up a bit better now but i havent had any problems. Compression came up 160 cold for all pistons cold aswell. Hope it works out for you Jarrod

50:50 mix i have determined to be a pretty good mix... the methanol has a much lower temperature for its evaporation point.. so evaporates alot quicker than water but has a lower latent heat of evaporation.. while water generally makes it to the engine.. where with its much higher latent heat of evaporation can significant cool down the engine in comparison to what fuel can do by running the car rich.. water Latent heat of Vaporization 2259 KJ/kg . K methanol latent heat of vaporization 1099 KJ/Kg . K fuel Latent heat of vaporisation approximately.. 586-628 KJ/kg . K also by having more than 2 liquids.. being sprayed into the intake.. you have a mixture of air, water and methanol.. because of Daltons partial pressure law, youll have more liquid evaporating because each gas behavior is directly related to it partial pressure.. so by having 2 liquids being injected, they have lower partial pressures.. and the temperature at which they evaporate is lower.. if you can even improve this by adding a 3rd liquid like acetone etc.. also water is much better knock suppressant than methanol.. i have actually read on a few sites that the methanol can be more prone to detonation with the pump gas due to higher combustion pressures.. which from the picture i posted.. you can see with 50:50 WMI, the peak combustion pressure is significantly less.. As for where you can get methanol i did a search for something like western australia racing fuels.. and found a supplier than does 200l barrels for 260 and 20litres for something like 50$.. you can also get lower mixes of water methanol from those blue car window sprays aslong as the antifreeze used if methanol and they dont have any other additives.. havent had much luck finding any kits locally.. i gave riceracing a email but havent had a response.. The amount you would need would depend on the amount your spraying in... im planning 2x375cc nozzles at around 220psi, which should flow something around the 900ml/min mark.. so as you can imagine it might not last that long.. but i have heard other ppl using the single nozzles n making it last about a tank on the street.. could always just get the 2.5gallon tank.. I quite like the AIS black 3 gallon tank.. but i havent been as impressed with the rest of their stuff..and they have no safe injection that i can find, was thinking might just buy a tank locally.. Jarrod

i was actually thinking about making a similar thread.. im also looking into a water meth injection kit, have put bulk research into it over the last few weeks.. have found alot of useful sites with some great info Heres a good article by AMS performance looking at the performance increase on their EVO when using 93 RON pump gas, goes into great detail about knock from higher combustion pressures and and how WMI can go about reducing it http://www.amsperformance.com/pdfs/maxpower.pdf http://not2fast.com/ this site has heaps of the old NACA reports and some other interesting info in particularly this one: http://not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/turbo_calc.shtml you can enter in all your car details.. engine size.. boost pressure your planning to run... your turbos compressor efficiency at that boost... intercooler efficiency etc etc.. and gives you all the temps in and out of the components, you can then move the WMI to either pre turbo, pre intercooler or post intercooler and change the water/meth ratio and the amount and it gives you the corresponding drop in temperature.. Its not an exact science.. as it doesnt account for alot of things.. like the air becoming 100% saturated and the changing properties of air with temperature.. etc etc.. but if you put in some realistic values you can get a pretty good approximation to how much water/meth you will need to get the intake temps down to an acceptable level... I also attached a picture of a car of combustion pressure verse crankshaft angle at normal combustion, advanced 3 degrees to slight knock.. then advanced another 3 degrees to aggressive knock, then with WMI added and advanced roughly 4.5 degrees.. gives great insight into how WMI actually achieves more power and protects the engine components with pump fuel.. As for the kits im still undecided on what kits are the best.. maybe some other people can offer some input?.. the aquamist ones are pretty pricey and dont flow as much as some of the others.. pretty interested in the Snow Performance kit, they have these new 220psi pumps now, a descent controller than can control the amount it delivers from inputs like boost.. and it has a safe injection system that can send a 12V trigger if the flow drops below a set amount to your ecu to trigger another map or a rich and retard setting.. and can also setup a solenoid to drop your boost.. so sounds safe enough providing the safe injection doesnt break Has anyone had any experience with these kits on a car that has already max'd out its turbo exhaust wise.. and made any more power?? Got a bit carried away there.. sorry guys.. Jarrod

probably very slim if you used 2 locating dowels at either end of the block/head... theres very little free play left in the head gasket once they are sitting in the block... Did you make sure the little metal rivets in the multilayer gasket cleared the head and block.. i had to dremel small amounts out of my head to allow them to clear so that the head gasket to be clamped down properly. Im not a mechanic.. you might be better off getting an opinion from someone else.. but i wouldn't advise you to over torque your bolts, because once they pass their elastic limit they lose their clamping ability. you might just have to pull it apart to work out whats going on then re-do it all and make sure you do it properly... new headbolts if your using standard bolts, new head gasket, check that all the rivits are clearing.. check that theirs enough sealing area around ALL the water and oil galleries on both the head and the block by using the rb30 gasket.. and re-check to see if the head or block is level or requires decking. Jarrod

i think this is what your after... piston ring end gap top compression ring 0.24 to 0.31mm (0.4mm limit) second compression ring 0.18mm to 0.28mm (0.4mm limit) piston ring side clearance top compression ring 0.040 to 0.073mm (0.1mm limit) second compression ring 0.030 to 0.063mm (0.1mm limit) oil control ring 0.015 to 0.0190mm Jarrod

Just to clarify.. theres oil in your coolant??? is there any coolant in your oil? this might be a stupid suggestion as its clearly indicated what to do in the guide.. but was the vct hole sealed up in the head.. as well as welding in additional material around the water return hole to provide additional sealing area... also are you using a rb30 gasket?? ive heard of people re-using copper gaskets after heating them up with a oxy.. im not sure about the multilayered metal ones.. mine looked like it had crush rings so i would imagine once its been torqued down it may not reseal a second time.. Jarrod

what lines do you think are wrong? they are pretty straight forward.. maybe a photo of your setup may help us ? also what ecu is it running.. have the afrs been tuned? and can u check to see if the turbo can spin freely?

sorry if im hi-jacking the thread, just wondering about the different ecu's software?? what ecu has the better software in terms of setting up the car, ease of use and datalogging.. and being able to do all the little customizations you want done? So far i have been looking into a upgrade from the power fc to be able to do some of the additional things i want done.. like control nos, thermo fans, being able to play with the rev limiter so it doesnt bounce as hard on the limiter etc.. Ive downloaded the software for the vi-pec and haltech, havent gotten very far with the vi-pec, but im quite liking the haltech to a point, it seems easy enough to set the 3litre up to have it driving around.. but it can be a bit temperamental, like i tried to invert the load n rpm axes, and then all the axes units corrupted.. the help from the haltech ecu manager itself is really great.. with alot of the settings that sound like gibberish explained out Jarrod

did you have to drill the holes out or did you just tap out the threaded holes?? Cheers Jarrod

Hey guys, i went to remove my harmonic balancer the other night and didnt realize the main threaded bolt was long enough and screwed all the way into the pulley puller, unscrewed it, extended it and tried again, and the threads stripped after being weakened from the first attempt. The balancer was pretty loose to begin with it would wobble backwards and forth and side to side, but wouldnt come off, after the threads stripped it got stuck on their rock tight, ive searched the forums and can only really find the other option of a 2 or 3 jaw pulley pulley, but from the sounds of things its much more likely to break my balancer than actually work is it worth a try or am i better of going down the more expensive avenue and getting a mobile mechanic to come out and re-tap the holes bigger and give that a go? Cheers for any advice Jarrod

mitch are all 3 dyno graphs yours or just the red one?

my suggestion would be to find someone with a skyline that has the same coilpack setup thats definately working with the amount of boost your trying to run... swap the loom/ignitor pack and coil packs all together and test that... it definately sounds like a weak spark issue... could also try gapping the spark plugs down more.. if it still misses its mostly a weak spark issue.. also trying turning the boost down Hope that helps Jarrod

maybe also check the cam positions with respect to the crank.. i.e that the harmonic balancer and cam gear marks all line up.. if the cams are advanced you get more bottom end, more top end if they are retarded.. at a guess id say with a older timing belt it may be possible for it to stretch slightly and retard the cams.. make sure you know how to set the base timing back up before you attempt this don't quote me on it tho its just conclusions i have arrived at while trying to work out why i my power curve dips off so aggressively in the top end while i have mountains of bottom end torque.. an adjustable exhaust cam gear wouldnt hurt to try and find a better compromise in performance, but it all comes down to dyno time .. are you sure your vct is working? and if they are aftermarket and still have the vct they would most likely be poncams? also when is your boost coming on?? is it laggier compared to other setups? Hope that helps Jarrod

haha yeh 97 onwards .. accidently posted from my friends account to

would u consider separating the fan from the clutch fan or coming down on the price Cheers Jarrod

has anyone done back to back runs with 255/17s and 275+/18or19s with around 250+rwkw.. with similar tyres to see if the wider tyre on a bigger rim results in more traction?? I have roughly 440rwhp atm and trying to work out all the things i can do to improve traction and any handling improvements i can make without sacrificing traction... does anyone know if polyurethane bushes would decrease traction? Cheers Jarrod

i didn't end up sticking in a oil restrictor as i did the internal vct oil feed where it gets its oil feed from the oil gallery, i assumed once the vct turns off after 4k that the oil would also be draining from the vct oil return line, i did install the rear oil drain kit and drilled the oil returns out larger in the head, which seems to be adequate enough Cheers for all the input guys, ill monitor if it changes over the next few 1000kms and see if its losing any oil Jarrod

i attached the rb20/26 pin out, theres a few fuses that effect the ecu, id have a good look at ur wiring and fuses

i wouldnt conclude that all tho it is a possibility, the standard ecu can run on less power and voltage, and can generally keep things running when somethings not working right.. whereas the car will play up with the power fc.. i had a melted wire in my car and was causing my tacho to play up with the power fc, but would run fine with the standard ecu.. post a help section in ur local state thread for someone with a power fc and datalogit.. so you can switch power fcs n tunes..

did you lose any boost response? from the dynos i have seen between different cars i thought the cams lost down end response without any descent gains in the top end.. i'll have another search for that thread, i was searching 256 dynos before but didnt get anything descent.. can you remember any keywords Cheers Jarrod

anyone got any before and after dynos of tomei poncams.. Cheers Jarrod

is there any chance that you might of knocked a inter-cooler pipe off and now have an air leak?? are you able to check the simple things like if your getting a good steady voltage and the afr's? maybe try swapping afms or swapping power fc's with someone else and sticking in your tune?

Status: id say it was steam.. more so than smoke.. i just remember thinking it looks alot like a kettle.. my piston to bore clearance was 3.5 thou from the pistons size before they were ceramic coated, the ceramic shop said because the pistons were getting ceramic coated they wouldn't expand as much. So the dry film lubrication layers thickness wouldn't effect the piston to bore clearance.. hard to say exactly what the clearances were without buying a micrometer and checking them myself, which i was considering, the bore was bored out 1 thou extra than the specs since the machine shop measured them and claimed the pistons were all 1 thou bigger, which i had double checked by a engineering shop.. i did roughly check the clearances with a feeler gage, but considering the bore and pistons are both round n they feeler gages dont like to bend it isnt very accurate, off memory (which isnt very good) i managed to get the 1.5 thou size in, but the 2 thou clearance was extremely tight.. Jarrod

Elite Racing: thanks alot for that elite, thats a real load of my mind, my main concern was that i had done something wrong or it was something out of the ordinary, a mini steam engine is definitely the right description for it. 116.hks: Yeh i had heard that as well and that they had fixed it as i was considering sticking in ACL rings, hopefully it seals up a bit better as it clocks up more kms. Cran: haha jason, ill make it there oneday, just got to figure out why the torque was dropping off earlier now.. which i think is due to the cams maybe being advanced, hopefully the radiator arrives next week sometime and the car will have the new exhaust made up.. and ill be able to take you for a spin Jarrod

i built it myself, first time i have attempted anything like this, made harder by the choice to ceramic coat everything Elite Racing: Cheers for the advice, i just wasnt expecting it to breathe so much.. almost looked like more air was coming out the breather than the exhaust Jarrod