jarrod83

Just a update and also need some further clarification Not able to do the torque plate honing as the engine builder doesnt have a torque plate for the block but said he can torque up the cradle? is it worth doing that at least? Secondly im getting back mixed opinions again from the clearancing between the pistons and the bore since. I've decided to ceramic coated all the internals including the pistons crown and skirts. I've spoken to the machine shop and the ceramic shop, the ceramic shop said to set up the 3.5 thou clearances first then theyll ceramic coat them and the tighter clearance from the coat makes up for the fact they run alot cooler with the coating. I told my machine shop this a few weeks ago and they seemed to understand. I've since picked up my pistons to be ceramic coated assuming the block was done, and when i talked to them about whats left to be done they said they were just waiting on the pistons so they could do their final 3.5thou clearance honing, the ceramic shop told me the skirt coating is about 1 thou thick and with my machine shop adamant that this is correct my fear is that the pistons will run with a ridiculous amount of clearance. Has anyone got any experience with what is the correct way to have this done, i know someone mentioned further up as well that the clearancing should be done after the coating but considering the pistons run colder it doesnt seem like its the correct approach Cheers for any info Jarrod

Thanks for the both the pics proengines, ill be able to setup something like that rather easily for the ring gap filing and know a little more about what I'm talking about when discussing the torque plate honing with them Cheers Jarrod

Cheers heaps for the info guys, definitely going to settle with the recommended clearance especially since i like the occasional burnout I asked my machine shop about the torque plate boring and they mentioned some other method they use that i cant remember but they claimed to be accurate :S, they said they don't do it but can do the torque plate honing with the cradle? i thought you also needed a plate that bolts to the top of the block, so ill have to confirm if they definitely can do it properly, they haven't been the most helpful people on the phone. lucky you mentioned not to grind the rings with a hand file, i was actually going to do that. Is there anything that you can easily get to file them down? or is it easier to just send them to the machine shop Cheers Jarrod

Thanks heaps for the advice guys, been worrying what I'm going to do in terms of the oil squirter's for days, ill probably not worry about the ceramic coating as my budgets getting a little stretched and don't want to be completely broke in case anything did go wrong =]. I don't actually have a oil cooler yet, it's one of the few external mods i don't have, if i do change my mind with regards to the ceramic coatings im guessing id have to get it done before the piston to bore clearances were measured and machined? Cheers again for the info Jarrod

cheers for the advice, with the build moving from a stock build to a forged build i forgot all about the boring to be done with a torque plate instead of the cheap method.. that could be the reason why they want to cover their asses with the extra 0.0005" clearance.. In regards to the piston to bore clearance, i was under the impression that the clearance's specified from cp pistons was the minimum clearance needed to cover a wide range of conditions, and if you machined the bores to the individual pistons and were going to the extremes you could run a slightly tighter clerance.. though im fine with using the 3.5thou clearance... just definately dont want to be using the 4 thou clearance they suggested. Does anyone know if these engines will run fine without the oil squirter's? or is ceramic coating needed? Thanks alot of your input guys.. ill call the builder and hit him up about the torque plate boring Jarrod

Hey fellow skyliners, having a few problems with my engine builder regarding a few things. I have 9:1 compression cp pistons at 20 thou over and spool up rods. After talking to a few people and searching the forums i decided to run 3.25 thou piston to bore clearance using the measured diameter of each piston, instead of the recommended 3.5 thou from C.P, but my machine shop doesn't want to run the clearances this tight and in fact want to run a clearance of 4 thou.. but would prefer to have them tight as possible to hopefully minimize the amount of oil it breathes... so i told them i would double check the clearance and get back to them. I have searched for the forums for clearances and pretty sure the 3.25 thou is suitable for what i want.. which is about 25psi with a gt3582 with the 9:1 compression and hopefully around 500rwhp at the wheels, the head is mildly ported and the combustion chamber has been polished with the sharp edges removed. I'm a little worried though since I'm not running oil squirter's (heard that forged pistons run a bit colder and probably not needed) and running some descent boost and compression to whether or not the slightly tighter than recommended piston to bore clearance is still suitable or whether theres a possibility that the pistons might get a little too hot and seize up. Cheers for any advice Jarrod

Cheers for the reply, yeh i have a light weight pulley as well for a rb25, but it turns out the rb25 pulley n pump is one piece and not removable.. and the pulley is actually for a 26

no problems, also i forgot to mention that the connection from the block on the exhaust side is the turbos inlet that enters at a lower angle than the turbos outlet that connects to the back of the runners on the plenum, its meant to help keep the turbo cooler and stops the oil from coking up after you turn the car off.. i actually had them around the wrong way for a while the angle should be about 15 degrees from level

its located on at the back of the intake plenum where the 6th runner is, its at the end of the water channel that runs along the injectors it should have a little brass hose connection coming out the back of it toward the gearbox, it can be difficult to get to, if you have trouble finding it ill take a photo but its really easy to find.. Jarrod

Hey guys, as the topic states im after a good condition power steering pump as i bent the pulley on mine, all offers welcome and im located in W.A Cheers Jarrod

Hey, i recently purchased a set of light weight pulleys for my r33 gts-t since my water pump pulley was looking a little suspect after my radiator fan and water pump decided to take a joy ride around my engine bay with the last stop being the radiator. The kit contained underdriven water pump, alternator and power steering pump light weight pulleys. The alternator and water pump pulleys fitted without a problem, but when it came to removing the power steering pump i runned into some problems. Instead of pulling off nice and easily it bent the pulley. It almost seems like its not meant to come off or im doing it wrong =( And at this time i noticed that the holes for the shafts in the pulleys were different sizes, a wise man probably would of checked this beforehand =| So is the pulley even removable or am i pretty much up for a new power steering pump? And if mine isnt removable is there any power steering pump pulleys that are removable which the light weight pulley would likely fit? Thanks for any info in advance Jarrod

Bump...

Hey I have just pulled apart my car for a rb30 conversion and noticed the exhaust ports as well having the little bumps in the corners to direct the airflow for the standard manifold as well and decided to give the head a bit of a tidy up myself. I was wondering if anyone had any back to back results from a some minor port matching and polishing...I did do a search but only found a post where someone claimed that because of the restriction of the turbo being greater that it wouldn't make much of a difference Wizard back can i ask what sort of mods you are doing? I think generally the stock 25 head is good for about 500rwhp standard with the appropriate turbo, if you are after considerably more its generally cheaper and easier to just buy a rb26 head, i dont think any of the rb26 parts from the head can be easily transferred to a rb25 Jarrod

Had an unfortunate accident with my water pump and managed to break a few things, so I am after a good condition pulley and clutch fan with no cracks. I only require the intake runners only which are in good condition with the radiator hose connection not rusted and falling to bits, pictures would be helpful, all offers appreciated and considered Im located in W.A so postage costs ontop of the price would very much be appreciated Cheers Jarrod

PLYNX - i wouldn't bother installing one, they are great when they are working properly but can be very troublesome requiring alot of maintence.. they add an extra 30-40kilos at the back end and its a fairly complicated system has anyone got any ideas to why they work fine for many years then all of a sudden require bleeding every few months? maybe leaking seals or lines? anyone got any ideas? ive had a look at the lines and cant really see much that you could replace..

I had the core plug fall out of the back of the rb25det head and having trouble finding the replacement size, it looks to be either a 34mm or 35mm, can anyone tell me for sure Cheers Jarrod

Hey guys im just getting my gearbox rebuilt which is turning very pricey very quick as i managed to damage a fair few parts, Im being told that i cracked the r33 sandwhich plate, which cracked in the flimsy part between to two bearing housings if thats the correct termonolgy? the two big holes in the middle of the plate, anyway the one i supposively cracked looks pretty weak Im just trying to confirm that the 300zx is able to be replaced and is in fact stronger than the r33 one? visually it appears to be built at little more solidly but im no expert.. also is it common to crack the sandwich plate in a r33? Cheers for any advice guys Jarrod

fineline i think you may be the man!!! Ive tried so many things to fix this diff, i was ready to rip it out.. Gave it a bleed using a tyre pump as the pressure source which only managed 14psi.. didnt have much faith in it working..gave the diff nipple a good bleed... took it for a quick spin and it either always lit up 2 wheels nice and evenly or it died in the ass(big laggy turbo)... I'm not going to hold my breathe just yet but i think it may be fixed, its definately performing alot better than it has for a long time. I'll know for sure next time i go for a drift... maybe this should be added to the top post as the method for bleeding? It's funny ive looked at that lid a 1000 times and never noticed the little hose connecter on top until you mentioned it

as the boost starts to approach 0.5bar it starts to slow down.. if you keep your foot held flat it, it never revvs out nicely on 0.5bar.. it starts missing n the misses seem to get bigger as it revvs out.. also it doesnt just hit 0.5 a bar nicely, it starts slowing down about 0.4bar. the misses arent sporadic like the usual electrical ones that come and go.. its pretty much the same every time, we've cleaned afms, changed spark plugs and checked vacuum leaks...

Hey guys, i have had 4 tunes now and im just trying to work out what latency correction is correct, the hks 740cc injectors part number is 1402-RN009, im pretty sure they are the same injectors that tomei use? the latency i have found for these injectors are 0.66 the standard injectors were purple and i have found many latency settings for them 0.528, 0.64, 0.67. 0.69 the injector correction ive had back from the tuners have either been +0.14ms or +0.01ms is anyone able to definately tell me the correct value for the latency correction Cheers Jarrod

just an update guys, one of the afm wires had got abit lose and caused all the problems, took a while to find

the stock 02 sensor has been unplugged and the 02 feedback loop has been off for ages

Hey guys, i finally got my turbo n everything running correctly.. so i give the car a tune at first myself and after a week the whole tune turned rich again.. so i retuned it a few times then thought i may of been doing something wrong... so i called a few workshops and they just said the usual "oh it just needs a "proper" tune", so i sent it to be tuned n made 408rwhp on 19psi which wasnt to bad, so for the first few days it wasnt to bad and i runned a wideband on it... nice 14.7s on light cruise to 11.5's-11.6s on full boost.. So a few days later it started to feel abit slower and chewing a fair bit more fuel so i put the wideband back on it.. its now runnin 12s-13s around town.. n 10.9's-11.1's on full boost... Is there anything else other than the ecu that could be causing this weird problem?? btw the ecu is a power fc pro nismo 740cc injectors sard fpr.. but the fuel pressure hasnt changed on it Cheers Jarrod

Hey guys i may of celebrated a little early... the oil in the intake and intercooler im pretty sure is clearing up, and no more smoke out the exhaust but i still have a slight leak coming from the compressor side of the turbo around the outside of it, is there any chance that having blow by for a few weeks damaged the turbo??

yous guys are legends... runned the catch can to atmo.. fixed it. cant believe it but thanks everyone for the advice