GTR-Ben

Start reading the RB30DET post at the top of the Forced Induction Part of the forum. Only a few pages..

I have also had little to no trouble with coils on any of mine or other Skylines I have worked on.. and some of these are daily driven 10s cars that run the stock coils.

Oh ok. I will take some photo's tonight if I get time of what I am talking about. I have a spare RB subframe and have it bolted to my engine to see how it sits. I will most likely use an RB25DET box, if not a modified RB26DETT box. I was thinking you could probably just have a slight bend in the gearstick if it wasn't quite centered, I have seen some factory like this. I have no problems with the tailshaft, easily modified. Same goes for the swaybar, I have a cefiro front swaybar that actually bends around the sump. I will be getting this copied and made larger as I did have a 27mm adjustable S13 bar, but yes they don't clear the sump Some of my pictures are at the link in my sig. or talk to me on AIM, Skylineben. I have added you already.

I'm guessing your using the KA Cross member? Thats probably where the difference is. I am using a RB Crossmember and in stock position a RB26DETT will fit and the gearstick will be in the right position, but yes I need to go down more for my engine..

Oh didn't notice it was in the heater vent.. duh. Rather keep my heater I think and my gauges are quite large. As for the engine mount, so you just moved the engine forward? How does this effect where the gearstick is?? See I need to go down, not forward. About 30-40mm.. can only really go 20mm but if I can go forward I can get more.

Hey I like the dash mounted gauges, thats how I want mine in the S13. Did you remove the dash to install them? When you say custom engine mounts, what did you actually do. As there is only so far you can lower the engine until the sump will hit the cross member. I am just about to make my engine mounts for my engine swap.

Yep snip snip and no speed cut.

Yep has to be speed cut..

What AFM's are you running, and is this a stock RB26DETT?

Isn't that the dropping resistor for something else..?

What if your injectors are worn out and flowing too much?

zymotic: Double clutching and Heel Toe are very useful for driving a car at full potential. For instance.. come into a corner at high speed, and jam it down a gear (engine brake) this will cause you to instantly loose traction and crash due to a huge weight shift to the front wheels. Double clutching matches the output shaft in the gearbox to the engine crank speed before putting the car into a lower gear, doing this makes for a smooth transition. This is achived by: coming into the corner, putting your foot on the clutch and pulling the gear into neutral, releasing the clutch, reving to match, then engage the clutch and lower gear. Now while you are doing that.. you have no control over the brakes.. This is where Heel toe or Rolling the foot comes into play. While doing the rev matching you will have your toe on the brake and rev match with your heel. I prefer to just have half my foot on the brake and accelerator pedal, normally I find it easier.. but it's probably a little dangerous too as you can stomp the accelerator instread of the clutch Ok.. thats my explanation, some points are probably not 100%.. and it's really hard to explain it's just something you get with practice. First time you see it and try and do it, you go WTF! my feet can't move that fast!

A Fuel Pressure Reg would probably help you, a bit more pressure to the injectors. Your fuel pump may not be able to keep up though. Don't worry about the driving, was just joking with you

And if your doing a 12.3 @ ?mph, and need 700cc injectors.. you are either driving really bad (missing 3rd wouldn't help) or not making anywhere near the power to run your injectors at 100%

Yeah stock second hand GTR motor.. dime a dozen here for around $5k... I wouldn't use a second hand one with stock turbos if I was going to drive it seriously. On that note I just painted my engine bay and got a new swaybar that goes around my sump so the RB30 will be dropped in and lowered as much as possible.

Well I have ripped out all the cold idle and A/C so should save some time..

Might be a dead relay or something.

Is there a setting on the power FC for increased displacement?.. or do you just have to adjust to compensate. As I have a RB26DETT PowerFC for the RB30DET

Can't wait to start doing mine What do you guy think is a good amount of time for a tuner to get a car to a decent level of tune? One guy down here with a 4WD dyno said 80hrs... i nearly died.

Did you wire the relay for injector power? One side comes from pure power, then the negative gives the pulse straight from the ECU. Might pay to check. Get a multimeter and check signals at the injector plugs.

Well a GTR pump bolts up to the RB30.. so I would say it would bolt up to any RB engine. The part being longer where it runs on the crank won't matter.

Things looks promising

I scored them very cheap.. were used in a car for very few k's. Got them in the apexi bags with all the covers etc, look brand new just smell a little of fuel Normally say $1200-$1400 I would say for 6.

So S15 engine in S13 with cooler and ECU = Should fly

Waiting on my PowerFc also. You should have ordered some injectors while you were at it. Got my Apexi 600cc's.