GTR-Ben

I see thanks for that mate, Just had a read over the guide again. I think with the 150 tooth belt and the two lower tensioners it will have the right adjustment as it says in the second setup in the guide. They found the belt I need here and I can get it on monday.. it's a lot more expensive.. but I can get it for about $100 or so, the dayco one was about $30. It's 2mm thinner but that shouldn't cause any trouble.

Oh thats what it would have been, the typo thay mixed me up I was talking about using the two tensioners in the low position, i have a 150 tooth belt that is 23mm wide, GATES was quoted earlier in the forum. I am going to use that with the 2 tensioners mounted beside each other so I don't have to drill and tap the block and can get the right tension.. Is this going to work? I thought thats how you did it?

Im going mad here guys.. I had a dayco belt.. but all they could give me here was the 94470.. which has 152 teeth..? With the tensioner in the idler postion this seems much to slack!!? I was looking at getting the belt with 150 teeth? Whats the deal?

Stock turbos: Exhaust, Filter, Clutch, (removed boost restrictor) 12.2 @ 112 Exhaust, Filter, Clutch, Oil cooler, ECU, FPR, 18psi 11.6 @ 118 (turbo did not last long afterwards.. not recommended to run over 14psi.) As above, all my R32's that have had stock turbos, exhaust, filter, and the restrictor removed have run consistent low 12's. With a stock clutch it killed it quick however. If it's not doing that.. then there is either something wrong, or you are driving like an old woman. Stock turbos are well designed and have minimal lag.. that you will loose when going to a steel wheel upgrade like the T28s which will not improve 1/4 times unless they are pushed harder.

Ok I finally have some photos. Here is the engine. Still have to repaint the covers and do the belt etc. Included pics of the Silvia in many bits. http://ben.nismo.org/My%20Previous%20Skyli.../RB30%20Silvia/

You can't go off the size really.. it's all about how much heat the thing can soak up and how well the air flows through it. E.g a Huge truck cooler will never work as well as a well designed cooler 1/4 it's size..

Yep not sure exactly what was going on but now it is all back to 8.45:1 Thanks for your help mate.

Thanks for the info.. I don't really know what is going on but I have had numerous engine rebuilt and work done from this shop and I am 100% they know what they are doing.. Unless my GTR head is aftermarket?? as it is ported and had aftermarket valve guides etc, and the head is definetly 67cc's.. you can see a larger lip between the contact point with the block and the part where the valve seat.. about 2mm more than a RB25DE head?? These guys have gone over all the squish zones etc with me, (which I don't 100% understand) and they have set the engine up to be good in all these areas.. I understand you know what you are talking about Sydneykid... and I was sure that the RB26 head had about 63cc.. Only conclusion is that it is an aftermarket head.. It has already had the head shaved and setup. Compression ratio is now 8.45 : 1 with a stock RB30E gasket. I think it was slightly more than 7.5 : 1 to start with as I didn't give them a gasket and they just estimated the amount. Well it's all done now.. just have to put it back togethor. Got my GT3040 turbo and 42mm Turbonetics wastegate on its way. And the Silvia is almost ready to drop it all in. Thanks for all your help guys, wait for photos and vids

My favorite Street GTR has always been running 2530's. Great responce, can run 10's down the 1/4 setup for a street car.

Sounds interesting Joel. Can you tell me more about the head gasket etc?? I am going to take in some GTR pistons and try and find some RB25 pistons to see how these change the CR and see if it helps me. If I get a CR of around 8.3 - 9.0 then I will be happy with it.. Steve you are using a RB25 head correct? It is really fiddly work with the CR.. I can't just put any head gasket on to fix the CR.. there is only so much you can do. And as for the forgies costing $2000. By the time I buy them, ship them and install them etc. it adds up. Seems like no one actually knows what I can do with a GTR head.. will find out soon enough I suppose.

Ok my compression testing is all done with the Rb26 head on the stock RB30 block. Came up around 7.5 : 1 which is far to low obviously. I am going to try and put some RB26 pistons or maybe RB25, and see what that gives me. Anyone that actually knows?? Other wise I have to take 60thou off the head.. which I don't really want to do. Ben With the GTR head though you get a CR of around 7.5 : 1, A 2.5 head will give you the 8.3:1 So I need to know figures using the GTR head, which is quite differen't. I would love to go and buy a set of forgies.. but now I am pushing close to my budget on this whole project car, and another $2000 or so would throw it over Really need someone who has used the GTR head and has some numbers..

So does the stock RB26 oil pump from an R32 bolt up to the stock RB30 or not? I have a spare R32 GTR pump, don't know if it would be worth sending to you though joel, i'm sure you can find one there cheap enough.

This is the T67 I was thinking of using.. maybe an older model, not sure. You can see it has a 4 Bolt t04 flange. This is it compared to a T78. Any ideas?

Also can't seem to find the engrish instructions for the EVC IV Pro.. it's annoying.

Ok there seems to be some good ideas for turbos in here.. and I am feeling rather stumped. RB30DET with stock bottem end and RB26DETT head. Have a manifold with a T04 flange, high mount. I want good usable power. I have someone with a T78 and a T67. These both have the T04 flange and are in a good price range for me. I think the T78 may be too large.. but I am not sure what power I will get at what boost pressure etc.. I could also go for an older T04 of some flavour but I think the Trust turbos will preform better. Also need a suitable ex wastegate. What are your recommendations for me oh wise turbo gurus?

Jeeze... that sounds like a mission to me, I prefer to rip looms out, dosn't take much. Sydney Kid, do you know the actual compression ratio with the GTR head dropped straight onto the stock Rb30E? I was told the CC of the GTR head but forgot and can't work it out. Your post also reminded me.. I don't think I have the loom for that part of the engine, the knock sensors etc.. Im sure I can sort something out though.

I am either going to go with the T78 33D, 17.0cm2 exhaust. Or the T67 25G. What are these turbos rated at, is the T78 going a bit large.. ?

Can we get a list of what turbos you guys are running with your RB30's? Need to get an idea of what to bolt onto this thing.. T78?

I agree Sydney Kid, thats why I upgraded the fuel system on the car today.. just to be sure. Just seemed very odd that the stock pump could be pushed so far. We will see how it really does tomorrow at the drags..

I would check the engine first.. stock ceramic turbos can blow and send ceramic dust up the exhaust valve and kill the whole engine.. I have seen this several times, it's hard to imagine.. but it does it.

Well this must be doing something, because with a stock GTR pump and a fairly decent wire straight to the battery, the pump is flowing enough on it's own to fuel this car with 720cc injectors and holding pressure with some big boost on the big T88 34D.. Running it down the track on Sunday with the engine rebuilt, so we will see just how much you can get out of a stock GTR pump. In fact I have seen 2 GTR's running stock pumps that have been rewired and both are running low 11's on street tires etc.. Makes you think..

I have a question about fuel pumps etc thats confusing me a bit.. Have a GTR here that seized the fuel pump. Pulled it out and it looked like a stock pump. This car runs a T88 @ 1.5bar, fuel pressure sits at over 3.5bar.. I replaced it with a stock GTR fuel pump and it still holds this pressure at the above boost.. The car runs low 11's with no traction etc. Will run 10's for sure. Will be running it on the dyno soon. The fuel pump wiring has been changed with larger wires etc. To run the times and to have the pull this car does.. it is putting out over 600HP.. how can it do this with the stock pump running around 60psi? Does rewiring the pump help somehow?

I had about 4 of these boost controllers. Some were the FBC and some the older non fuzzy ones.. Would be nice to know how they work exactly.. never been able to find any info..

The bar and plate intercooler will have more surface area than a tube and fin of the same size, they are heavier and also restrict more air flow to the radiator etc behind them. I have a 100mm thick Bar and Plate cooler, It should cool nicely.

I can't see how it wouldn't fit when the bell housing pattern is the same.. Just make sure you jack the front of the engine so that it angles the back down, makes the job 100x easier.. in a GTR I couldn't imagine getting the box in without doing that..