GTR-Ben

Ok just a reply to some points above I love GTR's and have owned a few.. I would never try and make a fake one as there is only ever a real one.. but you need to see that that a GTS-4 is a great package for the price especially when combined with a RB30. the track ---- Is the same. Front and rear subframe, suspension arms etc.. all the same. the guards---- are wider to accomodate the wider wheels/offset. Wheels still sit quite far inside the guards on a stock GTR. diffs ---- The rear diff is slightly better. Easily swapped for a nice Cusco etc. The front diffs just have a different ratio. gearbox ---- Again only a slight difference. suspension --- Again marginal difference.. i doubt any R32 GTR/GTS-4 would still have the standard suspension. GTR/GTS-4 coilovers are the same. sway bars --- cheap to get better ones. Stock GTR ones can be improved also. full chasis bracing --- Nope.. ? brakes (depends on models) --- Yeah slightly bigger on the GTR.. some nice R34 Brembos are an upgrade for both though front guards alloy -- yep cheap to buy and fit to a GTS-4. bonnet alloy --- yep, but there are cheap carbon bonnets around. drive shafts --- no hubs -- no interior (seats, gauges, trim) --- peanuts rear guards --- yep would cost a bit to put these on a GTS-4. rear wing --- so? RE-SALE VALUE --- who cares when it cost you 1/3 the price? I would say a 3k GTS-4 + RB30DET and other mods would easily blow away a stock 30k GTR for value and performance. In my opinion. All depends on the cost of labour.. if your a DIY person like myself.. it does not matter as much.

I guess they are a lot cheaper over here in NZ.. Just got a GTS-4 4 Door, Auto for 3k.. in good running condition. Drop in a RB30 or RB26 with GTR running gear and it's a cheap GTR

Basically a GTR is a lot of extra money.. for not a lot more car when you drop a RB26DETT/RB30DET into a GTS-4. Wider guards, better diff.. I think the shafts are the same. We are building up a RB30DETT GTS-4 at the moment, 4 Door also

I have a spare set of 87mm GTR pistons sitting in the garage, good as new if anyone is interested..

They are basically T28 Ballbearing turbos, good turbo's for a RB26 or RB30. The problem is if you want to use the stock GTR manifolds they have a T25 flange where the S15 Turbos have a T28 flange so not a direct bolt on. Probably easier to go single or get a couple of Modded GTR turbos (T28 spec)

If you space the lower control arm, is it wise to do the steering tie rod also?

R34 N1's? I woulds say they would yes.

I think only the later model turbo's (S15 T28) use Inconel? The earlier steel type just have another non-ferrous mix or similar?

About 200kw with those mods. Have seen higher with more with the stock turbo..

Can normally find one around.. I am in New Zealand though

Yeah your right just tried it on some aftermarket GTR turbos that are steel.. magnet does not stick.. must have a lead mix or something.. I did notice though.. with a steel wheel they side cut the nut.. with a ceramic turbo they don't

Those things go like hot cakes..

Yes thats true.. but the shaft will work with the magnet with a steel turbo. On a ceramic turbo the shaft is also ceramic so will not stick to the magnet. As you will see when a Ceramic turbo blows up.. it breaks at the shaft. I was doing this just the other night to find a turbo that had been changed to steel in a pile of turbos at home

Skylines have multilink front suspension, the camber plates like that are for a McPherson type strut. You need adjustable upper arms or off-set bushes to adjust front camber on a Skyline.

Magnet should work if they were steel. Only later model Nissan turbos with a non-magnetic metal. (forgot the name)

What method did you use to fit the AFM in the pipe? I'm guessing you used the same ID pipe as the original ID of the AFM?

If you want to fit Twin turbo's and keep the RB20/25 ECU and wiring etc.. most people use a blow through AFM setup. Otherwise you would need a single AFM and pipe splitting to two turbos.. wouldn't flow much.

Yeah converting a Laurel is the same.

Tacho wise.. did you just install a 4cyl tacho.. or something else? I heard a whisper that you can mod the tacho easily to go from 4 to 6 cyl.. but I don't know how. In my car I used a 6 cyl tacho.

You say electricallty assisted turbo's would take more power than they would make... but doesn't the new GTR prototype have something like that?

It will get stuck on the floor when you are bleeding it, thats normal. You just have to pump it a few times with your hand. The clutch won't really adjust it's self, if it does not have the right free board etc your going to need to get under the dash and adjust the rod.

I believe you can remove another fuse in the engine bay that will only disable the 4WD. Sorry I don't have exact details..

Correct me if i'm wrong, but a lot of drag cars not running BOV's. Is this partially to do with them having such huge turbo's that there is a lot more clearance around the compressor, and air returning off throttle would not have as much effect?. That and they are on WOT for most of the time anyway.

Waldo, thats the other side of the plug. The wires on the resistor it's self are one black and 6 white. Obviously the one different colour is the power wire. The instructions in the link above should be all you need.. quite simple.

:confused: Thats what you pay a Tailshaft expert to do.. who do hundreds a day and can supply with paper work to say it's legal... I have had dozens done like this. Yeah I know I said simply cut and weld.. which is simple and cheap for an expert to do. Doing that at home would be on the stupidest things I could imagine.... lol dangerous_daveo: Your Mechanic is right.. and the difference in price between a RB25DET box and modded RB26 Box will come a whole lot closer if you have to pay for other peoples time to do it... It cost me nothing to do.. and GTR gearboxs are so much cheaper, I know when I blow one up, I can simple unbolt my transfer case and bolt it to another GTR box and away I go