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it has the tekamen front and big rear bumpers, so will be a facelift (Aug '83 onwards) what is the chassis code on your build plate? Should be something along the lines of KDR30JFT... blah blah

there was a sweet R30 (and R31) picture thread going for a while over at JNC forums but it seems to have died down now. This 4-door DR30 provides a constant source of inspiration for my own build

I wouldn't even bother with any of the Aus/NZ brands like Cobra or King, Japan is the best place to go if you want lowering springs for a DR that are to your tastes... but be warned you may end up shortening your shocks in the process. as for offset I run 15x7 +15 on the rear and 15x6.5 +20 up front, however due to the style of rim (reverse mesh) I've had to space the fronts by 5mm to clear the brakes. Tyres are also a bit on the 'balloon' side being 215/60 rear and 205/60 front. here's mine on its "low" Japanese springs, I could have gone lower but why sacrifice ride comfort and bash the sump every time you go out for a drive?

I know someone hunting for a 3-slat DR30 grille... but would you be willing to ship to NZ and how much would it cost extra do you think? I'd consider buying the alternator and dizzy for myself, my sedan recently cooked its regulator and started overcharging

Ah so you're the guy I sent an email to yesterday. A friend of mine told me to contact you, I own a couple of DR30s and was wondering if you were willing to sell me a few items if you have them available. I'm located in Auckland if that's any help.

I just listed one for sale today on behalf of an older lady, an '81 4-door DR30 RS non-turbo. Has been her daily driver for years now, but she's looking to get something more modern. A shame you're in Australia and not New Zealand, otherwise it could probably have suited your needs. The current owner is only looking for around $3-4k. with that said, I do have contacts in vehicle shipping...

I bought a pair of new RS guard badges recently, plus the front bonnet "S" and rear bootlid "X" emblems direct from Jenesis' Yahoo Auctions Japan shop. Definitely worth getting if you're into the whole restoration buzz like I am They can be ordered new through Nissan NZ/Aus, but it's far cheaper and faster to source them direct from Japan. I used the Hayatonka middleman service to purchase mine, the guy who runs it has very reasonable charges compared to most. Plus as an added bonus for purchasing from Jenesis they included a couple of bonus items - a large "NISSAN PDC" sticker and small "Strongest Skyline Ever" decal. another Yahoo shop that sells the badges is Carshop Omote - see here for their current listings, they have other genuine parts as well.

Cool, thanks guys. My DR30 sedan runs a Bosch 910 pump which can be bought off the shelf here fairly easily, just need to bear in mind the cost factor. sounds like a plan. I guess the next question is which wires do I bridge on the plug?

Had a C31 Laurel switch in place of one of my rear window switches for a while - those are a direct plug-in but different design so I left it hanging off the trim (untidy, but people hardly ever sit in the back anyway). I've broken a grand total of three rear switches so far, and yep, they tend to disintegrate into a big mess of plastic and tiny metal pieces nowadays if I ever see a R30 at a wrecker's yard it's the first thing I'll check for!

Hey all, currently having an intermittent fueling problem on my DR30 turbo coupe that's starting to get more frequent and annoying. I'll be driving along or even idling just fine, but then the next minute the fuel pump will stop whirring and the car predictably dies. Switch the ignition off and back on again and the pump can't be heard priming, so the engine won't fire if you turn it over. Repeat this maybe four or five times and finally the pump will kick back into life, and you can continue as normal... until the next time it dies, which could be 100m down the road, or 100km I suspect the fuel pump controller in the boot is starting to crap itself since it's getting very hot to the touch, which probably ISN'T supposed to happen. as an alternative to scouring the globe for another R30 fuel pump controller (and before I go out and drop $400 on a new bosch pump which may not solve the issue either), does anyone know which of the wires leading to the box can be harnessed for a wire-in relay conversion? Or would anyone have a pinout diagram for it? any alternative solutions would also be appreciated. cheers in advance

my DR30s were registered with gross vehicle masses of 1,505kg (coupe) and 1,495kg (sedan) Ghostrider must have the same sales brochures as me, as the figures are identical. however on mine there is another row of information that gives laden weight as well.

probably a direct result of the exchange rate taking a nosedive Lucky I paid for my RX-7 before the big crash, in the space of a few days it dropped from 78 yen in the dollar all the way to low fifties!

^^ translate.google.com does on-the-fly translation of webpages from various languages into English, however there are some issues with searching and copy/pasting on YAJ. all good if you are browsing category-by-category though. USS has a policy of not displaying the final bid nor reserve pricing after the auction ends. Cars that end up getting sold aren't cleared from the auction lists until next week. Grey tekamen sedan - starting bid 30,000 yen. Grade 4. Bidding is currently open. note: automatic trans! White tekamen coupe - starting bid 50,000 yen. grade R. didn't meet reserve last time. Automatic. White pre-facelift coupe - starting bid 10,000 yen. grade 3.5. didn't meet reserve. Red tekamen coupe - up for tender. grade R. didn't meet reserve.

Turbo cluster I take it? If you don't mind, what's the odo reading, and is it an early (clock face) or late (grid pattern) type?

yup, Paul Newman Version. nope, this particular PNV is a white/blue one (much like yours I gather) wonder where that one in the photo ended up