adam-__-

You'll be able to run s13 silvia and 180's standard wheels, non-turbo R33 wheels and that's it. I don't think any of them are 16's either. Non-turbo R34 wheels are 5 stud so you can't use them. Edit: I think standard SR20DET powered s13's (both silvia and 180) are in 16".

Give me your current wheel specs and I'll tell you how much each offset will change from the way it sits at the moment. Everyone's opinion of how 'flush' looks is different.

There's not a huge difference between the two anyway. It's only 0.5mm difference or 0.1% in rolling diameter.

Yep, to have HIDs in your car legally, you must have leveling systems and cleaners. Cleaners are pretty much there to clean the headlights to minimise glare for oncoming traffic. Leveling is to avoid blinding on coming traffic. Believe it or not, most cars which come out of the factory with HIDs aren't legal. They can get defected for them, but don't. Most of the factory cars have the cleaners, but not the leveling system. Mercs and BMW should have them, but Honda and the less pricey cars wouldn't. I hate driving in front of a car running HIDs end of story. hahah. My car (the ke70) is lowered and it feels like every single car is running high beams. Having HIDs will blind me, but that's my fault for having such a low car. Edit: It's not too hard to tell which cars are running those HID kits. The car will have a whiter/bluer light and more glare than most other cars on the road. All the police need to do is "randomly" pull them over and check.

You've got an NA though. You'll have a smaller wheel in 4 stud.

That looks hot. No need to have them painted black. If anything, change the front bar. Just don't think it suits the rest of the car. Looking good though man.

Yeah, quite a few people on the roads are installing HID kits now. When people talk about hot spots, they're talking about the spread in the light. Take a look at my headlight's light for example... See how the light isn't spread evenly? Compare it to this... The light is spread evenly all round. When you use HID's in a headlight which were designed for halogens, the focus point of the HID globe will be in the wrong position and the headlight housing will 'use' that light in the wrong way. The headlight creates hot spots and glare. Your headlight's spread of light isn't too bad. I think it's because HID kits have been around for a while now. They've made the focus point of the HID globe to roughly the same position as where the halogen's focus point was. I haven't had any troubles with the police either with my lights, but I have a feeling they'll crack down on them. Everyone is installing them.

You'll have to take the wheel off. The sticker could be covered in dirt.

Post in the WTB section and browse the for sale section. A few of the things you need will pop up. What has happened to you sucks, but good luck with your repairs.

Hrmm, that's a good question. I'm not too sure about that one. My guess would be that the system will continue to try and get the temperature the unit's set at. So if the unit is set to 18 degrees, it'll keep blowing the coolest air it can get (ambient) till the sensors get that reading. But seeing that one of your sensors are reading -30 degrees (but it's really 25 for example) and you set the unit to 18 degrees, it's trying to get the 18 degrees so it's blowing hot air. Fixing the sensor up will make it read 25 degrees and to get to 18, it'll use the air con, but you don't have one so it'll just blow ambient till it does (probably never). Does that make any sense? Edit: I don't think what I wrote answered your question. With the diagnostic test, it should just test as if it had air con. The test just checks the motors which control the hot/cool air, the air directions, ect. It shouldn't give any errors if you've just removed the air con (from what I know). The after market computer shouldn't effect the climate control unit. You should be able to run a normal air system in your car. I think you just need to get that sensor fixed up first. Because that's reading -30 degrees, the climate control thinks you're freezing so it'll keep blowing hot air till you're warm.

hahaha it looks like you've just taken the weights off your wheels. They're there to keep your wheels balanced from changing one tyre to another. Just causes less vibrations and I'm sure there would be other reasons. If you still remember the location they were in, just stick them back on. Shouldn't cause too much harm.

My guess would be that it's the shocks making the noises. Have you tried shaking the car and seeing where the sounds coming from roughly?

That's got HEAPS of glare. There's no clear cutoff line at all. The hot spots aren't too bad. I don't think the standard one's are any better, but the glare... Here's an example of my head lights. I've got an R32 with the projector headlights with a HID kit I bought about 1.5 years ago so the technology wasn't the best, but I don't see if being much better now. It's just as bad, but with the projector headlights, you can at least see a cutoff line. The glare isn't as bad, you can tell where it's meant to be bright or dark. The hot spots are really noticeable. Here's an example of what headlight beams should look like. Compare that to our headlights. There's no glare or hot spots at all.

I bought my kit for about $240, but that was over a year and a half ago. These kits should be plug and play, but if you're installing some in an R32 with H1 globes, you could run into problems as discussed in the other HID thread.

The offsets should be on a sticker or printed on the wheel somewhere. No need to measure. Let me know when you find out what the offset is and I can help let you know how much the wheels will stick out.

Because the sensor's reading -30 degrees, your system will try to make it warm again by blowing hot air out. There's a thread in the tutorial/DIY section. Search by typing in "+cold +air" the thread should come up. Edit: Here's the link, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...mp;hl=cold++air. Pretty sure there was some guide as to how and what to do about the sensor's readings.

If you're talking about further as in forward, it'll be the alignment, but from left to right, the left headlight will always spread more to the side than the right. The right doesn't spread much compared to the left only because there's traffic heading towards you on that side. Headlight was designed to lower the chance of the light blinding on coming traffic. Just thought I should say...

The standard wheels are 16x6.5 with a offset of +40 am I correct? If you get these wheels which are 18x9.5 with an offset of +18, your wheels will stick OUT ~60mm from where the wheels currently are. If you got them in +35 offset, they'll stick out ~43mm. See how much room you've got in between your guards and decide for yourself. A lot of people have these wheels and I haven't heard of people having problems so you should be fine. They're a decent width and offset as well, so not too bad. As for tyres, I'm not sure about the profile, but I would run 225mm wide tyres for them to fit my guards nice and tight. The 225's on a 9.5" wheel will give you a slight stretch. Hope that helps.

The sensor itself is probably stuffed to be reading -30 degrees. I think you'll need to play with some resistors. There's a tutorial on how to do it somewhere. If you want cool air to blow out, just hold down your 'cool' button for 10sec+ and the sign "FC" will appear. It should just ignore what the sensors are saying and blow the coolest air your car can produce. If you're just wanting to stop the hot air from coming out. First switch off the unit, turn it back on, but without turning a fan on then pushing the recirculate button.

Most people keep the same width all round because it's easier to keep the same rolling diameter. Whether or not they'll rub will depend on the offset of the wheels. I've seen a few cars (on the net) running 10.5" wide. Just get the perfect offset for it and it shouldn't rub.

Yep, chances are these guys were running HID's in their reflector housing headlights. Having them in projectors(R32's) are bad enough. They produce HEAPS of glare. Having them in reflectors will be much worse. We'll see how siddr20's lights come out though. Sounds like he spent extra cash for quality globes. Couldn't agree more.

Do-luck I'm pretty sure.

That offset/track or wheel modification rule is farkin stupid. Your wheels can't be 25mm wider/thinner than the widest wheel specified by the manufacturer for that vehicle, you can't increase/decrease the car's total track by 25mm, etc. If you want to keep your car 100% legal, don't modify your car at all. Any modification will be illegal unless you get some engineers certificate.

Your battery just needs a charge if you left for a week and now it doesn't start. Charge it up and see how it goes.

They should be +40 on a 7" wide rim if I remember correctly. Just check your wheels to make sure. On the 32's wheels, the widths and offsets are printed on the lip (on the side facing the road).