adam-__-

I'd say $16.5k is pretty decent. Are you sure you wanna go from turbo to an NA though? I don't know your situation, but I have a feeling you might regret it. I guess test drive it and if you like it then it's up to you.

I don't think so either, but if they do, I don't think it'll be much.

You'll be looking at $45+ per guard for a roll and about $60+ for flaring.

Only reason I would see the standard suspension not passing the test would be that the shocks are all worn out or the whole system is in really bad condition. With GTR's being ~18 years old, I'd imagine finding a set of good condition shocks will be very difficult. Wouldn't have a clue about the white or silver thing. Can't think of anything that it would relate to. One way if seeing if the shocks are in 'good enough' condition is push them down and if they travel back to its position slowly, they should be fine and if they go straight back to their original position in say 1 sec (or quick), then they could be f**ked. Don't know if my way of testing is good, but it should give you an idea of what condition the shocks are in. Edit: $250 is a bit pricey for a set of second hands. I purchased a set for $150 and they were in good-ish condition.

LOL!!

You only need to worry about the different offsets when you change the width of your wheels. Changing diameter size shouldn't matter. Best to check out the Cefiro section.

Just check over your piping clamps. See if they're all tight.

Have you tried modifying the cap to hold the HID globe? I thought all headlights had their globes held in by the metal clip.

Check over your intercooler piping before bringing it to any shop. It could be leaking and causing the stalling.

Check your brake fluid level. Could be low.

It'll be a good family car, but the price of them could go down quick if you're worried about the resale value.

The induction noise is not worth the 3 points.

All car companies do this. Look at Holden for example, the VT and VX commodore are the same thing with the change of head and tail lights. People still buy the cars so they continue making little changes.

I think it's the cables to your motor. Mine was stuck on cool air and with the shake of the cables behind the dash, it got everything back to normal. All the motors worked properly again.

The offsets are on the wheel not tyres. As far as I know, the standard wheel's offset should be +40mm. Also about the chosen wheels, I'm not a fan of tempetyres wheels. Try and go for Japanese designed wheels from the traders on here and ns.com.

Yeah, it'll require you to cut quite a lot of the bar to fit the cooler. Just use a ruler and an angle grinder. Should do it pretty easy. Isn't all that hard.

With the standard bov, you can hear the 'ppshh' noise, but it's obviously not as loud as a atmo one. With my car, the bov doesn't open until you rev it above ~3krpm. So below that you'll hear a light flutter. This is all with a standard box as well.

I think it's a leaking pipe somewhere. To change the plugs, you would've had to move the intake and that around. Just check over your piping.

No way would I recommend knocking the hubs, swaybars or anything like that either, I was only talking about the guards. I don't see how a wheel would rub against the hubs or uprights though. Only thing I would see it rubbing is the coilovers or brake calipers.

You could always get a pod or something to get a louder induction noise if you're into that sort of thing. I wouldn't recommend getting a atmo bov, it'll be too much trouble with constant stalling etc. I honestly don't see why you want the head turning though? Not only are the heads turning going to be people you want to impress, but some of them will be the police as well. I would rather keep my car looking and sounding as stock as possible on the streets that's all.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/He...mp;hl=switch%2A It was his high beams stuck on, but could be some help.

That's pretty common if you want the wheels to be really flush. Just hit everything to get them out of the way until the wheels stop rubbing.

If you get the globes with the same temperature rating then it SHOULD be the same. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Xenon-HID-Bulb-D2S-...1QQcmdZViewItemVisit My Website That should be just the globes for sale. Try and see if you can get 4300K globes because that's what the standard ones should be. Pure white/sun light colour.

I see you have an R32, the problem could be in your switch. There was a thread recently with someone having the same problem. I'll get back to you with the link.

I think that could be your system controlling the temperature. Like it reaches 18 degrees when it's blowing the cold air, but when it reaches the 18 degrees, it'll blow ambient air to keep it at 18 degrees not make it go down to 16 degrees or what ever. Just hold down the 'cold' button for about 10secs or until 'FC' comes on and it should continue blowing cold air like others have mentioned.